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From Clay to Wax - A Step by Step Video Tutorial!


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls! The Junkman is back with another video series that answers those frequently asked questions, "What order am I supposed to use the products to fix my paint issues? What do I use first? What do I use second?"

 

Well, these 5 videos will finally put an end to those questions for those who are novices to the Adam's line. In these videos, I explain and give a short demo on which products to use, and the order to use them in if you have swirled and scratched up paint. For any novice to the Adam's line of products, I can guarantee that this will eliminate any confusion on what to use and when to use it!.

 

One important note. In the videos, you will hear me talk about "perfecting a spot" before moving on to an adjacent spot in the area you are working. What I mean by that is to get rid of all the swirls, haze or scratches in the very first spot that you start working on using Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR), BEFORE moving to an adjacent spot using SHR. Do not do the whole routine in one spot and then move to an adjacent spot and do the entire routine again. Do the entire car with each step of the process.

 

The reason I say to do this is that you must develop an effective technique the first time you start using a polisher to remove damage from your paint. That's why you want to ensure that the first spot that you start on is as perfect as you desire before you apply your technique to the entire car. If your technique is bad or ineffective, you don't want to apply that bad technique to the entire car because you'll end up tired an disappointed with your results. Once you are satisfied with the way your results turn out in the very first spot you start on using SHR, apply that same technique over the entire car. Remember, perfection may very from owner to owner so set a level of perfection that is realistic and to YOUR satisfaction.

 

So, without further delay, grab you some popcorn and kick up your feet. The Junkman is about to break it all down for you. I promise that by the time you're done with these videos, you WILL know which order to use the polishes and waxes.

 

product_steps.jpg

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp-Sa3_Fjc8&feature=plcp&context=C3ee1f64UDOEgsToPDskLdqsrTcb2o2o7bagSrTAx5]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part I - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB3CzQgviIA&feature=plcp&context=C3f1dc3cUDOEgsToPDskJgXWVQpH3az6UvkCvSFvpn]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part II - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0imejmAtX5k&feature=plcp&context=C30e2257UDOEgsToPDskI04wCohct6p2lb4bdnUHxY]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part III - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njdYl3I66Vc&feature=plcp&context=C348f5e7UDOEgsToPDskI1npzGUyL_e6kFbw-sH6BA]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part IV - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OilcN8kv_Xo&feature=plcp&context=C33ef5a5UDOEgsToPDskLG6zb4Wj-30V8mpJ57sjj1]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part V - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

 

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing flat, very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse. For you black car owners, this is my little secret of the trade. :cheers:

 

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

 

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

 

One more time on the order! :willy:

 

1. Clay

2. SHR

3. FMP

4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).

5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

 

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides! :banana:

 

 

The Junkman :cheers:

Edited by Junkman2008
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Ok, I will ask the question AJ, what pad do you use for the Revive polish. I would expect that you would use it with a PC - my guess would be a gray pad.

 

No. The gray pad is for wax only. It has no cut to it whatsoever. Revive is a polish, which means that there is some cut to it. Thus, you would use it on a pad that has some cut to it, or the appropriate hand applicator.

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Junkman:

I was teaching the subject of Earthquakes on Friday and told my students "I'm always afraid to teach this topic because a major earthquake almost always occurs somewhere in the world when I do."

 

Then look what happened on Saturday! My students said this morning in class "look at what you did!" Poor Chili!

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Junkman:

I was teaching the subject of Earthquakes on Friday and told my students "I'm always afraid to teach this topic because a major earthquake almost always occurs somewhere in the world when I do."

 

Then look what happened on Saturday! My students said this morning in class "look at what you did!" Poor Chili!

 

Whoa! You're like Wonder Woman"! You could make millions selling you DNA! :D

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Nope, it's those 16 year old girl posting videos about how life is so hard being rich. They have like 8 million subscribers!

 

I have never seen those, but if I was that girls parents I would take all her money, and force her to get a job. Then she can know what a hard life is like. :glasses:

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For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse. For you black car owners, this is my little secret of the trade. :cheers:

 

1. Clay

2. SHR

3. FMP

4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).

5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

 

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides! :banana:

 

 

The Junkman :cheers:

AJ,

 

How do YOU apply the Revive, I have heard three different answers and would like to know your way.

 

I heard

by hand

with white pad

with black pad.

 

Which way do you use, Thanks John

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AJ,

 

How do YOU apply the Revive, I have heard three different answers and would like to know your way.

 

I heard

by hand

with white pad

with black pad.

 

Which way do you use, Thanks John

 

I always do Revive with the white pad and here's why. By hand is more work than I care to do. That way is perfectly fine for those of you who have younger joints that I do but this old man doesn't feel like working that hard.

 

The black pad is for WAX. It has absolutely no cut to it whatsoever. Revive is a polish. That means that there is some cut to it. The white pad has a small amount of cut to it which makes it perfect for Revive polish in the method that I am using it (that is to further finish down or jewel the finish that I'm working on). Although FMP does an excellent job of finishing down, I like to take that step 1 more level on flat dark colors (by flat, I mean dark colors with very little to no metal flake in the paint). This gives me a little more depth on those colors. Cars with very pronounced metal flake stand out on their own after FMP so I don't bother to follow those with Revive.

 

It's a preference thing for me. You can try other ways if you like but you now know the method behind my madness.

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I really appreciate it alot AJ, your knowledge overwhelms me. I heard after you do all this that the glaze will add a little more?

 

You didn't hear that from me, but then I have never tried that. I like to keep waxing simple.

 

Duuuuudee its really that simple duuuudddeee and oh yeah bruth in a garage production i love it i really do lol. and by the way are you sure it wasnt you ? with the little noise?

 

Duuuuuuude! That wasn't me! :willy:

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