From Clay to Wax - A Step by Step Video Tutorial!

[Junkman2008]

Hey boys and girls! The Junkman is back with another video series that answers those frequently asked questions, "What order am I supposed to use the products to fix my paint issues? What do I use first? What do I use second?"

 

Well, these 5 videos will finally put an end to those questions for those who are novices to the Adam's line. In these videos, I explain and give a short demo on which products to use, and the order to use them in if you have swirled and scratched up paint. For any novice to the Adam's line of products, I can guarantee that this will eliminate any confusion on what to use and when to use it!.

 

One important note. In the videos, you will hear me talk about "perfecting a spot" before moving on to an adjacent spot in the area you are working. What I mean by that is to get rid of all the swirls, haze or scratches in the very first spot that you start working on using Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR), BEFORE moving to an adjacent spot using SHR. Do not do the whole routine in one spot and then move to an adjacent spot and do the entire routine again. Do the entire car with each step of the process.

 

The reason I say to do this is that you must develop an effective technique the first time you start using a polisher to remove damage from your paint. That's why you want to ensure that the first spot that you start on is as perfect as you desire before you apply your technique to the entire car. If your technique is bad or ineffective, you don't want to apply that bad technique to the entire car because you'll end up tired an disappointed with your results. Once you are satisfied with the way your results turn out in the very first spot you start on using SHR, apply that same technique over the entire car. Remember, perfection may very from owner to owner so set a level of perfection that is realistic and to YOUR satisfaction.

 

So, without further delay, grab you some popcorn and kick up your feet. The Junkman is about to break it all down for you. I promise that by the time you're done with these videos, you WILL know which order to use the polishes and waxes.

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp-Sa3_Fjc8&feature=plcp&context=C3ee1f64UDOEgsToPDskLdqsrTcb2o2o7bagSrTAx5]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part I - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB3CzQgviIA&feature=plcp&context=C3f1dc3cUDOEgsToPDskJgXWVQpH3az6UvkCvSFvpn]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part II - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0imejmAtX5k&feature=plcp&context=C30e2257UDOEgsToPDskI04wCohct6p2lb4bdnUHxY]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part III - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njdYl3I66Vc&feature=plcp&context=C348f5e7UDOEgsToPDskI1npzGUyL_e6kFbw-sH6BA]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part IV - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OilcN8kv_Xo&feature=plcp&context=C33ef5a5UDOEgsToPDskLG6zb4Wj-30V8mpJ57sjj1]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part V - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

 

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing flat, very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse. For you black car owners, this is my little secret of the trade.

 

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

 

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

 

One more time on the order!

 

1. Clay

2. SHR

3. FMP

4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).

5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

 

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides!

 

 

The Junkman

Edited February 6, 2012 by Junkman2008

[70'sChevyGirl]

hey thanks for the vids. im half way through the 3rd part of the paint correction and cant wait to start on my car soon.

Junkman is here most of the day to help come to the rescue.

 

He is sorta like SuperMan in those respects without the cape.

[Dr Jkel]

Junkman is the Michael Jordan of detailing, my stuff is arriving can't wait to get started. I just wished I would have known all this before I got my Camaro. Oh well at least it is not real bad just some light swirls to take car of, then I tackle the inside.

[Junkman2008]

hey thanks for the vids. im half way through the 3rd part of the paint correction and cant wait to start on my car soon.

 

I see you found those videos! And I just sent you a link to them in your welcome thread. Good for you to find them on your own.

 

Watch them all the way through twice and don't forget to read the text associated with each video! The second time you watch them, you will see and hear quite a few things that you missed the first time. This is completely normal. Holler if you have any questions!

[aworkman]

Hi Junkman,

 

I love your videos and writing. I've learned a lot since stumbling across them on YouTube.

 

I am ready to begin taking my car care to the next level. I actually found a PCXP for $119--that's the best price I've been able to find. As I prepare to purchase it, I want to be clear about what I need. (That kind of sounds funny since you laid it out so plainly in this video set.)

 

My question actually came about because of a previous video series you did. In that one, you were detailing your daily driver...the car that hadn't been washed for 2 years. In those videos, you mentioned that you used the Haze and Swirl remover instead of the Fine Machine Car Polish because the the Fine Car Polish was more aggressive. You wanted to be able to step it up if you needed to. But, in this set of videos you say to use both Haze and Swirl remover and Fine Car Polish...so that's why I'm a bit confused. Is the Fine Car Polish shining the paint or fixing it?

 

I realize I am rook at this and probably missed something along the way. If you could straighten me out, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks man!

[Junkman2008]

Hi Junkman,

 

I love your videos and writing. I've learned a lot since stumbling across them on YouTube.

 

I am ready to begin taking my car care to the next level. I actually found a PCXP for $119--that's the best price I've been able to find. As I prepare to purchase it, I want to be clear about what I need. (That kind of sounds funny since you laid it out so plainly in this video set.)

 

My question actually came about because of a previous video series you did. In that one, you were detailing your daily driver...the car that hadn't been washed for 2 years. In those videos, you mentioned that you used the Haze and Swirl remover instead of the Fine Machine Car Polish because the the Fine Car Polish was more aggressive. You wanted to be able to step it up if you needed to. But, in this set of videos you say to use both Haze and Swirl remover and Fine Car Polish...so that's why I'm a bit confused. Is the Fine Car Polish shining the paint or fixing it?

 

I realize I am rook at this and probably missed something along the way. If you could straighten me out, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks man!

 

Hello Adam, welcome to the forum!

 

You, as a lot of people did, watched that video series from You Tube, instead of starting at the thread that series was posted in. Go to that thread by clicking here and read the information on Video 6 (the video in question). It explains in detail the subject of which you speak.

 

Thanks for watching!

[aworkman]

Thanks so much for the quick response and for the welcome!

 

Your explanation makes perfect sense and I am really grateful to you for pointing that out. I can see that I kind of went through the back door in watching the videos. It's nice to have the full picture now.

 

Have a great weekend man.

[Junkman2008]

Thanks so much for the quick response and for the welcome!

 

Your explanation makes perfect sense and I am really grateful to you for pointing that out. I can see that I kind of went through the back door in watching the videos. It's nice to have the full picture now.

 

Have a great weekend man.

 

[Bill-V8V]

Edited March 13, 2010 by C6Bill

[Bill-V8V]

[Michael B.]

Great stuff AJ you know ived been watching your vids alot, even downloaded em so i can burn em out on a dvd, just to make SURE i always have them, you never know if youtube goes broke or something..hehe

 

So thanks my master

[Junkman2008]

Great stuff AJ you know ived been watching your vids alot, even downloaded em so i can burn em out on a dvd, just to make SURE i always have them, you never know if youtube goes broke or something..hehe

 

So thanks my master

 

Great idea! How are you downloading them? I use the Download Helper addon with Firefox. You can download any video on the Internet with that FREE addon.

[Michael B.]

Great idea! How are you downloading them? I use the Download Helper addon with Firefox. You can download any video on the Internet with that FREE addon.

 

i use this program

 

http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/ real easy and you can add the things you want, no need to use IE or firefox, its a stand alone program and its freeware

[Junkman2008]

i use this program

 

http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/ real easy and you can add the things you want, no need to use IE or firefox, its a stand alone program and its freeware

 

Does that program offer you the option to download the various resolutions of the video in all the formats uploaded and converted? The Firefox addon does.

 

EDIT: Never mind, I see that it does! Some nice stuff on that page!

Edited March 31, 2010 by Junkman2008

[Michael B.]

well, you can choose how high the quality should be from the vid, from mono to x264 high def, havent tried the highest since it takes a while to download

[LimitedDodge]

Great stuff AJ you know ived been watching your vids alot, even downloaded em so i can burn em out on a dvd, just to make SURE i always have them, you never know if youtube goes broke or something..hehe

 

So thanks my master

Great idea! I think I will do the same!

[aworkman]

Hey AJ,

 

Received my order a couple of days ago. Got to work today with a 2 bucket wash. (The wash pad, shampoo, drying towel, all were awesome. It made it so much easier to wash my car.)

 

Anyway, I used clay bar on the hood (it needed it). I then began with the PC and SHR with the orange pad on a small section to test it. I did several passes and looked at the pad. To my disappointment I saw red on the pad. (My car is red. 2000 Celica GTS.) I buffed the SHR off, and moved to the white pad and white product. I checked and there was red on this pad too. I wasn't pressing hard and I had the PC on like 3500 or 4000. I was pretty bummed, I didn't even try the gray pad with gray product. I couldn't take one more red pad at that point.

 

Any words of wisdom here? The car has swirls. Will I kill the paint if I continue? I can't believe this car wouldn't have any clear coat on it. The paint is shiny.

 

If I can't use it on that car it's not a total loss. I have an 08 xB that I am sure I can use it on. I am just at a loss now regarding my red car.

 

[11chevz71]

Hey AJ,

 

Received my order a couple of days ago. Got to work today with a 2 bucket wash. (The wash pad, shampoo, drying towel, all were awesome. It made it so much easier to wash my car.)

 

Anyway, I used clay bar on the hood (it needed it). I then began with the PC and SHR with the orange pad on a small section to test it. I did several passes and looked at the pad. To my disappointment I saw red on the pad. (My car is red. 2000 Celica GTS.) I buffed the SHR off, and moved to the white pad and white product. I checked and there was red on this pad too. I wasn't pressing hard and I had the PC on like 3500 or 4000. I was pretty bummed, I didn't even try the gray pad with gray product. I couldn't take one more red pad at that point.

 

Any words of wisdom here? The car has swirls. Will I kill the paint if I continue? I can't believe this car wouldn't have any clear coat on it. The paint is shiny.

 

If I can't use it on that car it's not a total loss. I have an 08 xB that I am sure I can use it on. I am just at a loss now regarding my red car.

 

 

 

 

 

Well Adam you have a Toyota that does not have a clear coat that why you have red paint on the pad. THe way you were going is the way to fix the scratches but i cant really tell you what to do from here because i have never dealed with a toyota. SO this is were Aj or someone else will need to chime in

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

Hey A.J. - My 02 Vette is getting a complete spring-detailing this weekend (as well as Nic's 96 Collector's Edition)

 

Can you suggest any tips in regard to the settings on the PC and such... Mine is the newer PC, tho I'm sure they are the same as far as speeds and handling. Figured you own a car like mine and well... you could advise me as far as the attitude the clear coat on a C5 has.

 

Mine isn't garage kept (trying to buy a house now and get out of this condo) but I do keep it under an 'always clean' car cover (i have 2 that I alternate, one for rain proofing) - I have mild to moderate swirls in my clear coat.

 

I planned on the orange pad, since I don't see a need in using the yellow pad just yet but was wondering what speed you'd suggest to start with. I'm sure the hood and trunk lid will need to the most attention.

 

I guess I'm lucky it's not a deeper color like yours or black. You have to look for the swirls on the pewter and everyone I know is like "man, you got that thing looking like NEW!" then I'm quick to point out all the flaws like the swirls, mild water scale, rock chips, stress cracks in the rear quarter @ fascia... haha... I hate imperfection.

 

Also... I used the Metal Polish #1 (can't get #2 anymore?????!!!WTH!) on the rims. Didn't seem to perk them up much. Should I or can I use the focus pads on them? Or just use the mother's power ball? I have both the large and small power ball. Nic said I can use some of his Metal Polish #2 if I help him do his 96 CE... I feel so cheap now... selling my services for Metal Polish.

 

For the finish, I'm using MSW, but was thinking of adding (next weekend) a coat of Americana since mine is kept out in the elements and a daily driver. Nic says just use MSW then BSG. ????

 

Thx man.

Edited April 2, 2010 by KicktoTheJunk

[Junkman2008]

Hey AJ,

 

Received my order a couple of days ago. Got to work today with a 2 bucket wash. (The wash pad, shampoo, drying towel, all were awesome. It made it so much easier to wash my car.)

 

Anyway, I used clay bar on the hood (it needed it). I then began with the PC and SHR with the orange pad on a small section to test it. I did several passes and looked at the pad. To my disappointment I saw red on the pad. (My car is red. 2000 Celica GTS.) I buffed the SHR off, and moved to the white pad and white product. I checked and there was red on this pad too. I wasn't pressing hard and I had the PC on like 3500 or 4000. I was pretty bummed, I didn't even try the gray pad with gray product. I couldn't take one more red pad at that point.

 

Any words of wisdom here? The car has swirls. Will I kill the paint if I continue? I can't believe this car wouldn't have any clear coat on it. The paint is shiny.

 

If I can't use it on that car it's not a total loss. I have an 08 xB that I am sure I can use it on. I am just at a loss now regarding my red car.

 

 

Hello Adam, your car could have been painted with no clear coat. This could have been done at the factory or aftermarket. I have read threads about Toyota's not having clear coat on some Toyota boards so this doesn't necessarily surprise me.

 

As far as how much paint is on the car, I couldn't tell you without using a paint thickness gauge or seeing it myself. I can, however, tell you that the process for fixing the paint is EXACTLY the same as what you saw in my videos. Nothing changes because there is no clear coat on the car as long as there is plenty of paint. The PC is not going to remove the paint off that car fast regardless of what you see on the pads. If you want to be safe, buy a paint thickness gauge and take readings. At least you don't need a fancy one, just a gauge that will show total product on the car.

[Junkman2008]

Hey A.J. - My 02 Vette is getting a complete spring-detailing this weekend (as well as Nic's 96 Collector's Edition)

 

Can you suggest any tips in regard to the settings on the PC and such... Mine is the newer PC, tho I'm sure they are the same as far as speeds and handling. Figured you own a car like mine and well... you could advise me as far as the attitude the clear coat on a C5 has.

 

Mine isn't garage kept (trying to buy a house now and get out of this condo) but I do keep it under an 'always clean' car cover (i have 2 that I alternate, one for rain proofing) - I have mild to moderate swirls in my clear coat.

 

I planned on the orange pad, since I don't see a need in using the yellow pad just yet but was wondering what speed you'd suggest to start with. I'm sure the hood and trunk lid will need to the most attention.

 

I guess I'm lucky it's not a deeper color like yours or black. You have to look for the swirls on the pewter and everyone I know is like "man, you got that thing looking like NEW!" then I'm quick to point out all the flaws like the swirls, mild water scale, rock chips, stress cracks in the rear quarter @ fascia... haha... I hate imperfection.

 

Also... I used the Metal Polish #1 (can't get #2 anymore?????!!!WTH!) on the rims. Didn't seem to perk them up much. Should I or can I use the focus pads on them? Or just use the mother's power ball? I have both the large and small power ball. Nic said I can use some of his Metal Polish #2 if I help him do his 96 CE... I feel so cheap now... selling my services for Metal Polish.

 

For the finish, I'm using MSW, but was thinking of adding (next weekend) a coat of Americana since mine is kept out in the elements and a daily driver. Nic says just use MSW then BSG. ????

 

Thx man.

 

Go back and watch these videos again. I explain exactly what speed and pressure to use in these videos. I also explain what pad to use and why, as well as when to use what product and why. It does not vary unless you are applying Machine Superwax or you are doing the slow cut techniques to empty product out of your pad. Other than that, it's the same amount of pressure, the same speed and the same amount of product regardless of the clear coat or car.

 

The wheels in your avatar look like the thin spokes that are clear coated. You don't use Metal Polish on clear coated wheels! Also, there is no longer a Metal Polish 1 & 2. Metal Polish has been reformulated and now there is only one bottle. That's all you need for metal or chrome surfaces.

 

If your wheels are clear coated, you treat them like paint because your wheels have the same clear coat on them as your paint does. You wouldn't use Metal Polish on your paint would you? Metal polish goes on metal or chrome, not paint or clear coat.

 

You can later Americana on MSW if you like. However, MSW has to be allowed to dure for around 12 hours to be safe, and then you need to wipe it down with Detail Spray before applying Americana. You always want to wipe your products down with Detail Spray before layering.

 

Who's Nic?

[aworkman]

Hello Adam, your car could have been painted with no clear coat. This could have been done at the factory or aftermarket. I have read threads about Toyota's not having clear coat on some Toyota boards so this doesn't necessarily surprise me.

 

As far as how much paint is on the car, I couldn't tell you without using a paint thickness gauge or seeing it myself. I can, however, tell you that the process for fixing the paint is EXACTLY the same as what you saw in my videos. Nothing changes because there is no clear coat on the car as long as there is plenty of paint. The PC is not going to remove the paint off that car fast regardless of what you see on the pads. If you want to be safe, buy a paint thickness gauge and take readings. At least you don't need a fancy one, just a gauge that will show total product on the car.

 

That actually sounds great. Thanks for your help. I may purchase a simple gauge. I saw one for like 50 bucks online. My neighbor works at an auto body shop, so I might check to see if he has one of his own.

 

I was looking at the small section I did yesterday, and I only did it for 15-20 seconds. The difference between that spot and the rest of the hood is incredible. It's night and day.

 

One other quick question, and an observation/question:

 

First, would I be on the safe side if I were to use the white product (sorry I don't have all the names down yet), instead of the SHR? I know that might be an unanswerable question since we don't know how much paint is on the car at this point. I just thought it might remove some damage without going as aggressive as the SHR. I guess I am worried about using two products that will remove some paint.

 

That question leads to my observation...something I hadn't thought until now. When using the SHR on a car with clear coat, some of the clear coat is actually being removed, isn't it? We can't see it because it's clear. So, just as I am seeing some paint on the pads because of no clear coat, if clear coat wasn't clear, you'd see that on the pad too. Is that correct?

 

Okay, thanks for taking the time man. I appreciate you coaching me through this. You're a big help. I actually got into this as a result of watching your vids.

[Junkman2008]

... First, would I be on the safe side if I were to use the white product (sorry I don't have all the names down yet), instead of the SHR? I know that might be an unanswerable question since we don't know how much paint is on the car at this point. I just thought it might remove some damage without going as aggressive as the SHR. I guess I am worried about using two products that will remove some paint.

 

Yes, you can try using the FMP first. I don't know what effect it will have on your paint as it is a very light cutting compound. You can always start with less and work your way up.

 

That question leads to my observation...something I hadn't thought until now. When using the SHR on a car with clear coat, some of the clear coat is actually being removed, isn't it? We can't see it because it's clear. So, just as I am seeing some paint on the pads because of no clear coat, if clear coat wasn't clear, you'd see that on the pad too. Is that correct?

 

You are correct. However, the amount of clear that is being removed is extremely light with the PC, even if you use SHR.

 

Okay, thanks for taking the time man. I appreciate you coaching me through this. You're a big help. I actually got into this as a result of watching your vids.

 

 

[dumbmoran]

Hey Junmkan,

 

Got my PC Adams kit the other day.

Love it very much.

Question: How come when I'm applying SuperWax w/ the PC setting on 3, even if I'm applying no pressure to the polisher, the pad hardly circulates (i.e. by observing the black mark on the yellow pad) while touching the surface of the car. It practically only circulates if I remove the polisher completely off the surface of the vehicle. This is even more pronounced if I'm working on a horizontal surface.

 

HOWEVER, If I turn the PC up to a setting between 4 and 5, then with the pad will circulate with the weight of the PC on the vehicle. Can I get away w/ using this speed, or if I should use the 3 setting regardless? In other words, is it imperative that the pad moves by using the slowest possible speed (in my case 4 1/2) or just leave the setting at 3.

 

Happy Easter, if we don't hear from you then.

 

All the best to you and your family

[Junkman2008]

Thanks David, and a Happy Easter to you and yours also.

 

You should mainly be concerned with pad rotation during the pint correction process. If all you are doing is waxing, just ensure that the PC is perfectly flat to the surface and it will rotate if you are not applying pressure. To me, it sounds as if you are using the side handle. Is this so?

[dumbmoran]

No Junkman. Haven't even installed the hand-piece. The only modification I made was installing the washer between the shaft and the Adams backing plate.

 

In fact, I'll be holding the PC with one hand at the base and she will not rotate if the pad is touching the surface unless I either crank the speed up to between 4-5 or lift the unit entirely off the vehicle.