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From Clay to Wax - A Step by Step Video Tutorial!


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls! The Junkman is back with another video series that answers those frequently asked questions, "What order am I supposed to use the products to fix my paint issues? What do I use first? What do I use second?"

 

Well, these 5 videos will finally put an end to those questions for those who are novices to the Adam's line. In these videos, I explain and give a short demo on which products to use, and the order to use them in if you have swirled and scratched up paint. For any novice to the Adam's line of products, I can guarantee that this will eliminate any confusion on what to use and when to use it!.

 

One important note. In the videos, you will hear me talk about "perfecting a spot" before moving on to an adjacent spot in the area you are working. What I mean by that is to get rid of all the swirls, haze or scratches in the very first spot that you start working on using Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR), BEFORE moving to an adjacent spot using SHR. Do not do the whole routine in one spot and then move to an adjacent spot and do the entire routine again. Do the entire car with each step of the process.

 

The reason I say to do this is that you must develop an effective technique the first time you start using a polisher to remove damage from your paint. That's why you want to ensure that the first spot that you start on is as perfect as you desire before you apply your technique to the entire car. If your technique is bad or ineffective, you don't want to apply that bad technique to the entire car because you'll end up tired an disappointed with your results. Once you are satisfied with the way your results turn out in the very first spot you start on using SHR, apply that same technique over the entire car. Remember, perfection may very from owner to owner so set a level of perfection that is realistic and to YOUR satisfaction.

 

So, without further delay, grab you some popcorn and kick up your feet. The Junkman is about to break it all down for you. I promise that by the time you're done with these videos, you WILL know which order to use the polishes and waxes.

 

product_steps.jpg

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp-Sa3_Fjc8&feature=plcp&context=C3ee1f64UDOEgsToPDskLdqsrTcb2o2o7bagSrTAx5]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part I - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB3CzQgviIA&feature=plcp&context=C3f1dc3cUDOEgsToPDskJgXWVQpH3az6UvkCvSFvpn]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part II - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0imejmAtX5k&feature=plcp&context=C30e2257UDOEgsToPDskI04wCohct6p2lb4bdnUHxY]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part III - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njdYl3I66Vc&feature=plcp&context=C348f5e7UDOEgsToPDskI1npzGUyL_e6kFbw-sH6BA]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part IV - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OilcN8kv_Xo&feature=plcp&context=C33ef5a5UDOEgsToPDskLG6zb4Wj-30V8mpJ57sjj1]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part V - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

 

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing flat, very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse. For you black car owners, this is my little secret of the trade. :cheers:

 

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

 

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

 

One more time on the order! :willy:

 

1. Clay

2. SHR

3. FMP

4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).

5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

 

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides! :banana:

 

 

The Junkman :cheers:

Edited by Junkman2008
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Then crank the speed up to 4 but before you do that, ensure that the pad is perfectly flat to the surface. Tilting it at the slightest angle will cause the pad to stop spinning. If you go and look at my slow cut video series, you can clearly see how much my pad turns on a setting of three, and that PC is not as powerful as the one you have..

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Just wanted to you give an update AJ.

 

I went ahead and worked on the hood of my car 2 nights ago. I figured there's no way I am going to remove enough paint to do damage, so I went for it!

 

I spent about 30 minutes on the first section trying to get my technique down. (I still need a lot of practice, but I eventually got to the place where I could tell I was getting better at it.) The big swirls were removed, but I still had some really small swirls, although you had to look for them. It wasn't as perfect as I would like, but I didn't want to push my luck with the paint. I was wondering how long I would need to do work it before they were completely gone. As a side note, the hazing was gone almost immediately. When I got to the place where I thought it look as good as I could get it (at least for now as I am learning) I moved to the next section. After I completely finished I moved to the FMP. It shined up quickly, though I still think I could get even more shine out of it. I was hesitant because I read on the back that if you let it dry it would haze. I probably didn't work it long enough...a couple of minutes per section, although that's a complete guess.

 

To do the hood probably took me 2 1/2 hours. That seems like a lot, but it was my first time and I really wanted to take my time. I actually did it from like 9pm to almost midnight in my garage. I am glad I don't have neighbors very close by!

 

I ran out of time, so I didn't get to apply the wax yet. I don't have a car cover so I think I will need to rewash the car before wiping it down again 12 hours after the application.

 

Here are several take-aways for me as a first timer.

1. I had to consciously resist the urge to rush. There was something in me that wanted to move the PC faster than I should and I needed to intentionally slow down.

 

2. My paint was pretty bad so I had to use more SHR than I thought I would.

 

3. Confession: I was trying to save a few bucks, so I purchased a inferior microfiber towel from another site. It had silk edges or something. After I wiped the SHR I saw brand new large swirls. I don't have any Adam's microfiber towels, so I switched back to an edgeless microfiber towel and saw no more swirls. The next ones I buy will be from Adam's. I wasted money on these other ones.

 

 

3 Questions if you don't mind.

1. Is it a good idea to clean the pads periodically when detailing--kind of like cleaning a paint brush when painting? My got gunked up with product and I wonder if it reduced the effectiveness of the pads.

 

2. Will the wax add a shine to the paint in the final step? The paint is a lot more shiny than it was, but I would like an even deeper shine. Or should I go back and hit it with the FMP again?

 

3. Is it okay to wax and then rewash the car 12 hours later and then buff the hood again to remove any additional residue. I don't have a car cover.

 

 

I noticed in a previous post you asked if I had my pads yet...sorry I missed that post. Yup, I got them. :)

 

 

Thanks again for your coaching and, Happy Easter to you and your family.

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Just wanted to you give an update AJ.

 

I went ahead and worked on the hood of my car 2 nights ago. I figured there's no way I am going to remove enough paint to do damage, so I went for it!

 

I spent about 30 minutes on the first section trying to get my technique down. (I still need a lot of practice, but I eventually got to the place where I could tell I was getting better at it.) The big swirls were removed, but I still had some really small swirls, although you had to look for them. It wasn't as perfect as I would like, but I didn't want to push my luck with the paint.

 

Machine Superwax will help hide that damage if it isn't too bad.

 

I was wondering how long I would need to do work it before they were completely gone.

 

As long as it takes. There is no set time that anyone is going to be able to use because the extent of your damage may be totally different than someone else damage. The hardness of the clear coat is also a factor as well as your ability to do this type of work.

 

As a side note, the hazing was gone almost immediately. When I got to the place where I thought it look as good as I could get it (at least for now as I am learning) I moved to the next section. After I completely finished I moved to the FMP. It shined up quickly, though I still think I could get even more shine out of it. I was hesitant because I read on the back that if you let it dry it would haze. I probably didn't work it long enough...a couple of minutes per section, although that's a complete guess.

 

Nothing is going to haze up. You need to work a polish until it is almost dissolved. The area will start to slightly shine and that is when you stop and wipe it off.

 

To do the hood probably took me 2 1/2 hours. That seems like a lot, but it was my first time and I really wanted to take my time. I actually did it from like 9pm to almost midnight in my garage. I am glad I don't have neighbors very close by!

 

It took me 3 days to clay my car. I could waste 2 1/2 hours on half the hood so to me, you're moving pretty fast.

 

I ran out of time, so I didn't get to apply the wax yet. I don't have a car cover so I think I will need to rewash the car before wiping it down again 12 hours after the application.

 

Is your car sitting outside or in a really dusty garage? If the dirt is not matted to the finish then my waterless wash videos are the answer to your problem.

 

 

Here are several take-aways for me as a first timer.

1. I had to consciously resist the urge to rush. There was something in me that wanted to move the PC faster than I should and I needed to intentionally slow down.

 

Totally normal.

 

2. My paint was pretty bad so I had to use more SHR than I thought I would.

 

WRONG.

 

This is exactly why you had the gumming pad problem. So many guys go the "if 1X is good, 2X will be better" route and the effect is absolutely the opposite. You gum up the pads which causes them to stop cutting then you continue to add more product which totally waste money. You MUST stay true to the technique. All you did waste wear yourself out and created more work than necessary. You also wasted valuable product. One bottle of SHR will completely do a bunch of cars. If you have used more than 1/4 of that bottle, you may as well be pouring it down the sink because that is what is happening when you clean your pads.

 

Stay true to the technique. Three pea sized drops at a speed setting of 5, using 9-15 pounds of pressure. If the pad starts to fill up with product then implement a few passes using my slow cut technique. This will help flush the pad of all that excess product that you have used. Once the pad is flushed of product and back in shape, you go back to the initial technique.

 

Okay, that was your beating for today. You get a clean slate until you do something like that again. :D

 

3. Confession: I was trying to save a few bucks, so I purchased a inferior microfiber towel from another site. It had silk edges or something. After I wiped the SHR I saw brand new large swirls. I don't have any Adam's microfiber towels, so I switched back to an edgeless microfiber towel and saw no more swirls. The next ones I buy will be from Adam's. I wasted money on these other ones.

 

And I though I was done beating you... paddle.gif

 

 

3 Questions if you don't mind.

1. Is it a good idea to clean the pads periodically when detailing--kind of like cleaning a paint brush when painting? My got gunked up with product and I wonder if it reduced the effectiveness of the pads.

 

It is not necessary when you follow the rules I posted above.

 

2. Will the wax add a shine to the paint in the final step? The paint is a lot more shiny than it was, but I would like an even deeper shine. Or should I go back and hit it with the FMP again?

 

The shine that you are going to get comes from the polishing you do. Wax is NOT going to make it shinier. Americana will give it more depth and Machine Superwax may hide some of the small imperfections but the main purpose of wax is to protect the paint, NOT make it shiny.

 

3. Is it okay to wax and then rewash the car 12 hours later and then buff the hood again to remove any additional residue. I don't have a car cover.

 

It is okay, but the question is, "Is it necessary?" That answer lies within my waterless wash videos.

 

I noticed in a previous post you asked if I had my pads yet...sorry I missed that post. Yup, I got them. :)

 

 

Thanks again for your coaching and, Happy Easter to you and your family.

 

Glad to be of service sir. Happy Easter to you and your family. :thumbsup:

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Nothing is going to haze up. You need to work a polish until it is almost dissolved. The area will start to slightly shine and that is when you stop and wipe it off.

It took me 3 days to clay my car. I could waste 2 1/2 hours on half the hood so to me, you're moving pretty fast.

 

That's all good news to me. I was afraid I was working to slow. I am going to go back and do it again. The results are not exactly where I want them, and I know I can make it better. I will work slower and more methodically. One thing that I am learning in this is that I ain't going to get the car done in one day! And that's okay; the process is fun.

 

Your car sitting outside or in a really dusty garage? If the dirt is not matted to the finish then my waterless wash videos are the answer to your problem.

 

I have a garage, but don't always park in it. I can no problem. The waterless wash is the answer. I will go back and watch your video on that again. I actually have the Adam's Waterless Wash and Towel. I got it free from Adam's when I ordered the Wash Trio a couple of weeks back.

 

 

This is exactly why you had the gumming pad problem. So many guys go the "if 1X is good, 2X will be better" route and the effect is absolutely the opposite. You gum up the pads which causes them to stop cutting then you continue to add more product which totally waste money. You MUST stay true to the technique. All you did waste wear yourself out and created more work than necessary. You also wasted valuable product. One bottle of SHR will completely do a bunch of cars. If you have used more than 1/4 of that bottle, you may as well be pouring it down the sink because that is what is happening when you clean your pads.

 

Stay true to the technique. Three pea sized drops at a speed setting of 5, using 9-15 pounds of pressure. If the pad starts to fill up with product then implement a few passes using my slow cut technique. This will help flush the pad of all that excess product that you have used. Once the pad is flushed of product and back in shape, you go back to the initial technique.

 

Okay, that was your beating for today. You get a clean slate until you do something like that again. :D

 

I definitely didn't use a quarter of the product, but I did use more than I should have. That's evident since the pad was gumming up. I thought the SHR was drying out on the car, so I would wipe the car off and add more to the pad. What you are saying makes good sense. I will use less when I do it again and work on making my technique better. (I definitely used much less FMP than I did SHR)

 

I will also watch your slow cut video again.

 

I though I was done beating you... paddle.gif

 

LOL. I learned my lesson.

 

 

The shine that you are going to get comes from the polishing you do. Wax is NOT going to make it shinier. Americana will give it more depth and Machine Superwax may hide some of the small imperfections but the main purpose of wax is to protect the paint, NOT make it shiny.

 

Makes sense.

 

 

Glad to be of service sir. Happy Easter to you and your family. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks again man!

 

Talk to with you later:)

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Well AJ, I was finally able to get a PC and when I did I ordered the Junkman's Paint Correction Kit. Since you worked 3 days on my hood at the Ford Nats in Carlisle last year I have to do the rest of the car. Thanks for the vids and so far its been real easy liked you showed me last June. This year I'll be at Carlisle, but you won't need to demo my Stang.

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Well AJ, I was finally able to get a PC and when I did I ordered the Junkman's Paint Correction Kit. Since you worked 3 days on my hood at the Ford Nats in Carlisle last year I have to do the rest of the car. Thanks for the vids and so far its been real easy liked you showed me last June. This year I'll be at Carlisle, but you won't need to demo my Stang.

 

Thank goodness! :lolsmack:

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Guest Gone & Forgotten

Thanks for the help A.J. Nic is NinefootNic (he posted some static cling sticker thread or something recently - so he tells me, no time to read it!).

 

Did a detail job on the 02 today... nothing like yours, but then again, Lt. Pewter doesn't show reflections like a darker color will. I think it turned out great and it felt great driving it home with the top down today.

 

Here's some results. :pc:SHR:pc:FMP:pc:MSW

IMG_00811024x768.jpg

IMG_00821024x768.jpgIMG_00841024x768.jpg

 

Hope those don't blow up the thread to big. Those are Iphone shots reduced to 1024x768.

 

I used a speed of 4 to 5 on the PC for SHR and FMP then down to 2.5-3 for MSW. Got out 95% of the damage, the other 5% is beyond help with a PC7424, need a gravity feed gun and a spray booth to fix those eyesores.

 

Once again, thanks for your mentoring J-man.

 

-bob

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Guest Gone & Forgotten

A little addition, I had some scratches that I didn't want to attempt pulling out with the PC7424 since they were single scratches in a sea of 'flawless' paint, so after I did my 2 passes with the SHR, I busted out the focus pads and the dewalt drill. I used the Yellow pad at first and it seems softer and less effective than the orange focus pad. Are the focus pads not supposed to be the same as the larger pads? I used the Yellow and it did nothing.. I used the orange focus pad and it pulled the scratch out pretty good. A couple of the scratches remain but you have to use x-ray vision to see them.

 

We need a focus pad video! haha.. If I was good enough at this, I'd make one in the 'brother in his garage' style. But, I'm underqualified to be handing out advice at this point.

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A little addition, I had some scratches that I didn't want to attempt pulling out with the PC7424 since they were single scratches in a sea of 'flawless' paint, so after I did my 2 passes with the SHR, I busted out the focus pads and the dewalt drill. I used the Yellow pad at first and it seems softer and less effective than the orange focus pad. Are the focus pads not supposed to be the same as the larger pads? I used the Yellow and it did nothing.. I used the orange focus pad and it pulled the scratch out pretty good. A couple of the scratches remain but you have to use x-ray vision to see them.

 

We need a focus pad video! haha.. If I was good enough at this, I'd make one in the 'brother in his garage' style. But, I'm underqualified to be handing out advice at this point.

 

I am planning a video series that will include the focal pads. Stay tuned. :thumbsup:

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Ok. First post so be nice if I've missed this along the way. :) I have a black C5 so after watching the videos I came here to find out what the "secret" is for dark colors. So... it's the Revive polish. Ok. Got it. In this thread I think I understood that the white pad is the proper pad for that polish. Got that too. If I remember my colors correctly, the white pad goes with the FMP. Can I use the same pad for both the FMP and the Revive or is it a no, no to use the same pad with different products?

Edited by 3BVert
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Yes, you can use the same pad and you don't even have to wash it first. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks but... Holy cow! The Revive polish is blue! I have this rule burned into my brain. Orange polish... orange pad. White polish... white pad. Gray polish... gray pad. Now you're telling me... Blue polish... WHITE pad???? I'm going to have to rethink all of my training.

 

Just kidding! Now I see why the Revive polish was a "secret". It's just WAY too complicated. ;) I guess it's really a hand polish so it's exempt from the rule. You do recommend using the PC to apply it, right? If so, I think I'm going to have to buy an extra white pad and dye it blue. ;)

 

Thanks for your help Junkman! You've inspired me with your videos.

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Thanks but... Holy cow! The Revive polish is blue! I have this rule burned into my brain. Orange polish... orange pad. White polish... white pad. Gray polish... gray pad. Now you're telling me... Blue polish... WHITE pad???? I'm going to have to rethink all of my training.

 

Just kidding! Now I see why the Revive polish was a "secret". It's just WAY too complicated. ;) I guess it's really a hand polish so it's exempt from the rule. You do recommend using the PC to apply it, right? If so, I think I'm going to have to buy an extra white pad and dye it blue. ;)

 

My revive is a light orange color... I got it right before they made the switch to the new color...

 

My SHR is a grayish white color as well... Pre color coding...

 

I think Adam got sick of people (including me) asking which pad with which product... :lol:

 

I plan on putting the revive on with the machine and a gray applicator. With the little bit of fillers it has it should make the paint pop just that much more and I don't need to correct the paint at all.

 

Chris

Edited by Chewy
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Why would they worry about how their car looked if they were color blind? :thumbsup:

 

Great videos again AJ - this is going to be my reference set once I get my kit - will post up some before and after shots once she's shinin'!

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Why would they worry about how their car looked if they were color blind? :thumbsup:

 

Great videos again AJ - this is going to be my reference set once I get my kit - will post up some before and after shots once she's shinin'!

 

Because if they have any color besides white all they will see is black, and swirls show the worst on black. :lolsmack::lolsmack:

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You know AJ I did this all weekend and still watched your video and learned something...

 

I love it!

 

Can't wait to hit a clinic.

 

When is Carlisle this summer?

 

I think we need to post ALL the clinics in the forums calendar.

 

Chris

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Cool, let's just make up a fictitious one then at my house so I can get a personal training session and some free samples - I'll even schedule it in the middle of January when its not so nice in Kentucky but OH SO NICE here in south Florida. :) Do you like pulled pork BBQ because I can hook you up mate? :drool:

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OK so if I MSW today (Sunday), Can I rewash and 2nd coat it Tuedsay no problems correct? It will be sitting tomorrow, but Tuesday it will go out and right through a construction zone where they are wet cutting concrete so I HAVE to 2 bucket it, no Waterless for me on this one. Thanks AJ for all the great help and videos! the Mazda is looking FANTASTIC!

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