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From Clay to Wax - A Step by Step Video Tutorial!


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls! The Junkman is back with another video series that answers those frequently asked questions, "What order am I supposed to use the products to fix my paint issues? What do I use first? What do I use second?"

 

Well, these 5 videos will finally put an end to those questions for those who are novices to the Adam's line. In these videos, I explain and give a short demo on which products to use, and the order to use them in if you have swirled and scratched up paint. For any novice to the Adam's line of products, I can guarantee that this will eliminate any confusion on what to use and when to use it!.

 

One important note. In the videos, you will hear me talk about "perfecting a spot" before moving on to an adjacent spot in the area you are working. What I mean by that is to get rid of all the swirls, haze or scratches in the very first spot that you start working on using Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR), BEFORE moving to an adjacent spot using SHR. Do not do the whole routine in one spot and then move to an adjacent spot and do the entire routine again. Do the entire car with each step of the process.

 

The reason I say to do this is that you must develop an effective technique the first time you start using a polisher to remove damage from your paint. That's why you want to ensure that the first spot that you start on is as perfect as you desire before you apply your technique to the entire car. If your technique is bad or ineffective, you don't want to apply that bad technique to the entire car because you'll end up tired an disappointed with your results. Once you are satisfied with the way your results turn out in the very first spot you start on using SHR, apply that same technique over the entire car. Remember, perfection may very from owner to owner so set a level of perfection that is realistic and to YOUR satisfaction.

 

So, without further delay, grab you some popcorn and kick up your feet. The Junkman is about to break it all down for you. I promise that by the time you're done with these videos, you WILL know which order to use the polishes and waxes.

 

product_steps.jpg

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp-Sa3_Fjc8&feature=plcp&context=C3ee1f64UDOEgsToPDskLdqsrTcb2o2o7bagSrTAx5]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part I - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB3CzQgviIA&feature=plcp&context=C3f1dc3cUDOEgsToPDskJgXWVQpH3az6UvkCvSFvpn]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part II - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0imejmAtX5k&feature=plcp&context=C30e2257UDOEgsToPDskI04wCohct6p2lb4bdnUHxY]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part III - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njdYl3I66Vc&feature=plcp&context=C348f5e7UDOEgsToPDskI1npzGUyL_e6kFbw-sH6BA]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part IV - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OilcN8kv_Xo&feature=plcp&context=C33ef5a5UDOEgsToPDskLG6zb4Wj-30V8mpJ57sjj1]Paint Correction with Adam's Products - Part V - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

 

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing flat, very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse. For you black car owners, this is my little secret of the trade. :cheers:

 

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

 

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

 

One more time on the order! :willy:

 

1. Clay

2. SHR

3. FMP

4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).

5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

 

Okay boys and girls, let's see those shiny rides! :banana:

 

 

The Junkman :cheers:

Edited by Junkman2008
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Guest Gone & Forgotten

How soon can you wash the car after a full detail ending in Americana? I have some residual dusting that I can't seem to just wipe away with any cloth/DS combo - dying to wash it but Americana is only a few hours old now.

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Guest Gone & Forgotten
You should be fine as soon as you finish waxing it. There is no 'cure' time on the wax, since it just sits on top of the paint.

Appreciate the info Michael. Wasn't 100% sure. Been doing this for 2 years, but never needed to wash one afterward.

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I went through all the steps- swirl and haze remover, fine machine polish, swirl and machine super wax using the porter cable 7424. Car looks great only I see tge odd mark still. Good for now I guess. I try sheeting the water off but I see tiny droplets on tge paint in some spots. Not sure if it's from washing in tge sun or if I should put another coat of machine wax. I put tge wax on then I removed it. Then 24 hours later wiped the car down. Not sure I put enough wax on.:pc:

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Hair line scratches. I got rid of the swirl marks though. If I wasn't going for heart surgery so soon I would have spent more time on it. The odd tiny spots of ware that don't sheet off bug me a little. I don't know if that is a sign to put another thin coat of super wax. Polishing my Shelby has been therapeutic for me in taking my mind off surgery. Now time to spend with my two little kids. My 7 year old now knows the steps in your videos. He tells everyone that comments on how great the car looks. Thanks for all the help. I think my neighbors all think im nuts when they see me using a leaf blower to dry my car. Lol

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... My 7 year old now knows the steps in your videos. He tells everyone that comments on how great the car looks. Thanks for all the help. I think my neighbors all think im nuts when they see me using a leaf blower to dry my car. Lol

 

It seems that kids retain more of what I say than the adults do!

 

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:help:Quick question Junkman!

 

First of all thank you for this awesome video series!!

 

My question is this. Should one should wash the car (Foam gun and two bucket...) then dry then proceed to claying? And after the claying does one jump right into the application of the products or does one rinse off the car, or wipe it down, or what?

bf-HELP.gif

Thank you!

-Evan Espanto

Edited by Junkman2008
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:help:Quick question Junkman!

 

First of all thank you for this awesome video series!!

 

My question is this. Should one should wash the car (Foam gun and two bucket...) then dry then proceed to claying? And after the claying does one jump right into the application of the products or does one rinse off the car, or wipe it down, or what?

bf-HELP.gif

Thank you!

-Evan Espanto

 

I wash the car again after claying. I want to see the paint in its exact condition before I start working on it.

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