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Help - how to remove swirls I just added


blazeone
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Not too happy, my new mustang had a few light scratches here and there. Typical new car stuff. So I got out the PC put on a new orange pad and used Adams Swirl & haze remover. Working on the car in the garage with the PC on 5. Well as soon as the sun hit the truck lid I knew I was in for more work.:(

 

Now I have a solid light haze of scratches on the panels I did. I tried using the fine polish with the white polishing pad and it did not help much.

 

:help:

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Was the Orange pad new? Did you spray a little DS on the pad? If the pad was dryer without DS and new pad it would have more cutting power. Go back over with Orange pad and SWR. Make sure the pad is primed good and remember to spray a couple shots of DS.Then go back over with White pad and FMP. Go slow and take your time! And watch the videos again.:thumbsup:

 

Detailing Videos

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sounds like a fun day! where in houston are ya? I am a little south of pearland and the wife wont be home for a few more hours if you wanna bring the car over and give it a shot here.

 

I'm inside the loop. Thanks for your offer, I may take you up on it. I'll send you a PM.

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Was the Orange pad new? Did you spray a little DS on the pad? If the pad was dryer without DS and new pad it would have more cutting power. Go back over with Orange pad and SWR. Make sure the pad is primed good and remember to spray a couple shots of DS.Then go back over with White pad and FMP. Go slow and take your time! And watch the videos again.:thumbsup:

 

Detailing Videos

:iagree:

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Did you wash and clay the car first? Sounds like there was some kind of abrasive still on the paint.

 

I'm wondering the same. I used SHR today with the orange pad on the highest setting on my PC and took out scratches. Certainly didn't add any or having any problems with hazing. I also agree with the others that priming the pad is a good idea.

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Improper pressure, unprimed pad, too much product, contaminated paint/pad... any of these could be to blame for the issue you're describing.

 

Can you get a little more specific on your process, did you prep first (wash & clay)? How much product did you use? Approximately how long did you work the polish?

 

We'll get you pointed in the right direction... just give us a little more info and you'll be defect free in no time.

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Improper pressure, unprimed pad, too much product, contaminated paint/pad... any of these could be to blame for the issue you're describing.

 

Can you get a little more specific on your process, did you prep first (wash & clay)? How much product did you use? Approximately how long did you work the polish?

 

We'll get you pointed in the right direction... just give us a little more info and you'll be defect free in no time.

 

 

Car was washed and clayed

I used a new pad BUT did not prime it "could be the issue"

Apply an X pattern of SHR to pad

Apply PC to surface and move it around a little to spread the product.

Turn PC on uses speed 5.

Apply hand pressure until aI can just start to hear the PC working hard.

When done with an area, removed product with MF towel.

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Car was washed and clayed

I used a new pad BUT did not prime it "could be the issue"

Apply an X pattern of SHR to pad

Apply PC to surface and move it around a little to spread the product.

Turn PC on uses speed 5.

Apply hand pressure until aI can just start to hear the PC working hard.

When done with an area, removed product with MF towel.

 

The items I highlighted -

 

Priming the pad is important as theres no way you're going to get polish on every surface of the pad right away... the priming gives you a little bit of a barrier between the pad and the paint for the first few moments of polishing. Without it you are dry polishing with the pad, which could cause marring and other issues.

 

The X pattern... are you doing that on the first panel only or every panel? Thats an acceptable amount on your first panel, each subsequent panel should be 3-4 pea sized drops of product plus a shot of DS to reactivate the product thats already in the pad.

 

Pressure is subjective, but honestly I've never subscribed to the "ANGRY GORILLA" approach. On a horizontal surface the weight of the PC itself plus a little pressure from you is enough. If you're pushing enough to make the PC "work hard" you may be pressing too hard. The only time I press hard enough to 'bog the PC down' is if I'm going after a very deep swirl or scratch... normal cobwebbing and swirls don't require all that much pressure.

 

Have you watched AJ's videos on machine polishing?? It really is one of the best illustrations of how to approach polishing with the PC that there is anywhere on the net.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2386

 

I also was thinking about this thread last night before I went to sleep - yes... I am that sick... this kind of stuff occupies my mind full time. Are you entirely sure the orange pad was necessary? Being that this is a newer car and you likely have only had minor issues it might have been better to start off with the white pad and FMP... just a thought. Perhaps do a small test area that you haven't already used the orange pad on with the white pad/FMP combo and see what that nets you, no sense in using the more aggressive approach if its not needed.

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Thanks for the heads up to technique. I did watch the video and that is where I got the pressure statement from.

 

Anyway I wnet back at it today with the wqhite polishing pad

"primed :xfingers:" and SHR then some FMP. Pretty much cleared everything up.

 

I am still at a loss for buying a good detail light, I bought a hand held 800W halogen today and it wouldn't show nothing. So I had to polish in the sun to see results. Any ideas on a light?

Edited by blazeone
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Thanks for the heads up to technique. I did watch the video and that is where I got the pressure statement from.

 

Anyway I wnet back at it today with the polishing pad

"primed :xfingers:" and SHR then some FMP. Pretty cleared everything up.

 

I am still at a loss for buying a good detail light, I bought a hand held 800W halogen today and it wouldn't show nothing. So I had to polish in the sun to see results. Any ideas on a light?

 

Good deal! My florescent light show everything!:(

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Thanks for the heads up to technique. I did watch the video and that is where I got the pressure statement from.

 

Anyway I wnet back at it today with the wqhite polishing pad

"primed :xfingers:" and SHR then some FMP. Pretty much cleared everything up.

 

I am still at a loss for buying a good detail light, I bought a hand held 800W halogen today and it wouldn't show nothing. So I had to polish in the sun to see results. Any ideas on a light?

 

this will be added to my stuff soon. i believe its what Dylan uses and it shows everything.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Brinkmann-Maxfire-Dual-Xenon-Spotlight/dp/B000GKIDM6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1267397029&sr=8-4

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I use a combination of that brinkman dual xenon light (up close inspection) and a floor standing pair of 500w halogens from sears that I got for around $20. Certain defects will only show in certain light so if you're only gonna have one I'd say the 500w spot halogen (think construction lights) would be the best option.

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