Confused about Pads/Products after Watching Videos

[LinPark]

Alright, I need some help - I watched both Adam's videos and AJ's videos and here is what I gathered:

 

Orange Pad - Orange Product (Swirl & Haze Remover)

White Pad - White Product (Fine Machine Polish)

Grey Pad - Grey Product (Machine SuperWax)

 

Easy right? But then later, I believe I heard Adam state that the Orange Pad is more aggressive than the White Pad and I thought AJ said that Swirl & Haze Remover is less aggressive than Fine Machine Polish.

 

So why pair the less aggressive paste with the more aggressive pad?

 

I am hoping that my kit arrives this weekend and I'm going to be doing a first time detail on a 2010 Dark Cherry 370Z (planning on posting up some before and after pics). The car has some swirl marks on it straight from the dealer so I'm looking on advice for how to start this project. After watching all the videos, I am tempted to start first with a Detail Spray spritzed White Pad and Swirl & Haze Remover. Does anyone have experience working on newer Nissan's that could give me a clue as to whether or not I am headed in the right direction?

 

Thanks!

[Chewy]

Is Nissan using that same clear coat Infinity uses where when it gets hot it reduces the swirls? I guess its effects last 3 years but my Bro's 1 year old G has swirls all over it, so I don't think that's the case... lol

 

Chris

[Team Adam's]

I've seen more than a few of these new supposed self healing paint jobs up close now, all of them have been heavily swirled. So either its a VERY slow process or someone came up with a nice gimmick to talk about at the dealership.

[LinPark]

The pics actually did show some of the swirls - here are 2 of them:

 

 

 

It looks worse in person.

[Team Adam's]

"self healing paint"??? SOMEONE in marketing got a massive bonus for coming up with THAT lil gem.

 

I have yet to see it do what Nissan claims it does, and even if it does the improvement seems to be marginal... I wouldn't go throwing your PC away anytime soon.

 

Courtesy of Nissan:

[LinPark]

I have a new Nissan Titan Black, you really need to clay first, then I would move to FMP and the white pad. I don't know about the 370Z but my Titan's clear coat is soft, so I would start out with the least aggressive method if possible.

 

I did a 2 bucket wash, clay, and another 2 bucket wash the first weekend I had her. I think your suggestion is exactly what I'm gonna try first - FMP and the white pad to start - let me try to snap some photos of this stuff - tragically enough the worst spot is on the rear bumper right where the dealer put his stick on logo - looks like he used a burlap sack to rub the logo on. Sure wish there was an easy way to take that thing off without damaging the paint - 20 years from now it will probably just blow off while I'm driving but it sure is on there right now.

 

I'm making this out to be alot worse than it probably really is but I would have expected a dazzling finish on a new car right off the lot. Given the products and the knowledge I've gained here I expect to have her outshining the Mean Ole Camino in a giffy. Has anyone ever told AJ that if he didn't stack stuff on top of the car it might stay shiny longer?

[whiterp199]

Try some heat to get the dealer logo off. Heat it up with a hair dryer.

[Team Adam's]

So when do we get to see some pics of the Z Lin??

[fdresq4]

I have a 2006 Silver Titan. When I bought it, the dealership tried to sell me on a Super Sealant that would last 5 years. My wife laughed and told the salesman, "My husband would have nothing to do if that were the case." I passed. My paint is like any other. I'm due for a total spring detail.

 

Steve

[LinPark]

Here's the most recent shot after I detailed her last weekend.

 

 

I tried to get some snapshots of the swirls tonight but the camera just couldn't seem to make them out - I've captured some video of it like the ones AJ does in his so I'll load those up shortly.

[nmike101]

I have yet to see it do what Nissan claims it does, and even if it does the improvement seems to be marginal... I wouldn't go throwing your PC away anytime soon.

 

Courtesy of Nissan:

 

What is Nissan washing their cars with, Brillo Pads?!?! I have washed my "conventionally" painted cars way more than 50 times over the past few years and they don't look anything like that!

 

Anyways, I'm actually in the middle of polishing my black 08 Si with a PC, SHR and an LC CCS orange pad (I apologize for not using Adam's products exclusively). It's my first go around at polishing and I'm finding it takes me a long time to get light swirling/scratching out, although I have heard Honda clear is soft. I have to go to the 4" Adam's spot buff pads in some areas like the front fenders. I always took care of the paint and it looks exceptionally nice for going through 2 upstate NY winters except for when the halogen lights are on it. I just hope as I get more experience the process will only take me 3-4 hours rather than 3-4 days, since I enjoy detialing, and it would be nice to make some extra cash on weekends. AJ and Adam's videos make it look so easy, but I'm sure they have about a million times more polishing time in that I do. Sometimes I feel crazy detialing my $22K Civic when everyone else on here is doing Corvettes and Ferraris. Hopefully someday I can step up to an NSX, and not have to drive it in the winter!

[Superdutytd]

When looking at all the pad/polish choices I look at it like in a numerical way. If an Orange pad = 5, SHR=5, White pad=2, FMP=2 I can conlclude to get the most cut I would use an orange w/ shr which equals out to a total cut of 10. If I don't need quite that much cut but I need to have more than a FMP/White (cut of 4) then I will use an orange pad and FMP for a cutting power of 7. If you're a numerical person that probably helped some, if not well I don't know what to tell you