2x2 sections

[Fit08]

So, as I read the forums I get to wondering something while using a PC.

 

What are you folks seeing when you do a 2*2 section then moving onto another 2*2 section overlapping the first by a few inches I assume, do you see any "darker" areas or any difference from doing the area in sections?

 

Just wondering for the day I get my PC, and joined the ranks of the "swirl removers":2thumbs:

[XQIZT]

Junkman: Do I see a handle on that PC???

 

3BVert: I perfect the entire product treatment before moving on to the whole car. SHR/FMP/wax...if that 2x2 area is to your satisfaction, then you can finish the whole car with SHR, then FMP, then wax using the same technique that got you the results on the 2x2 test area.

[Junkman2008]

Well ya know Junkman if anyone is going to convert the folks it is going to be you!

 

Your videos and personality say volumes about you and your passion for car care.

 

You have helped many and have been straight as has Adam and his staff, so I salute you folks for doing what you do!!

 

Thanks Ralph, that was very kind of you!

[Fit08]

Yup. He forgot all about being a Meguiar's fan.

 

 

Well ya know Junkman if anyone is going to convert the folks it is going to be you!

 

Your videos and personality say volumes about you and your passion for car care.

 

You have helped many and have been straight as has Adam and his staff, so I salute you folks for doing what you do!!

[Junkman2008]

did he leave the show with a full kit?

 

Yup. He forgot all about being a Meguiar's fan.

[GTO Guy]

did he leave the show with a full kit?

[whiterp199]

Good Job AJ. Looks great.

[Chris@Adams]

Nice job Aj!

[Marylander]

That trunk was huge. The guy that owned the car was bragging about the fact that he only used Meguiar's products on it. I asked him about all the swirls (and it had about a bazillion) to which he had no answer. He was as skeptical as hell when I volunteered to show him how to fix them. He was still skeptical about letting me touch the car with the PC until some guys in his club kept asking him if he knew who the Junkman was! I got a good chuckle out of that. He ended up buying a kit after he saw what I did to his trunk.

 

Here he is watching me like a hawk!

 

 

Nice conversion, Rev. Junk.

[Junkman2008]

That trunk was huge. The guy that owned the car was bragging about the fact that he only used Meguiar's products on it. I asked him about all the swirls (and it had about a bazillion) to which he had no answer. He was as skeptical as hell when I volunteered to show him how to fix them. He was still skeptical about letting me touch the car with the PC until some guys in his club kept asking him if he knew who the Junkman was! I got a good chuckle out of that. He ended up buying a kit after he saw what I did to his trunk.

 

Here he is watching me like a hawk!

 

[3BVert]

...

 

At that point, I am ready to move on to FMP and the white pad. Now FMP will definitely leave a richer looking finish behind once you wipe it off. It is easiest to see on black cars. See if you can see the contrast here:

 

 

...

 

That is amazing! Nice shot!

 

Thanks for the tips everyone!

[Chewy]

Yes. I do the entire car with each polish before I move to the next polish.

 

Diddo!

[Junkman2008]

Junkman: Do I see a handle on that PC???

 

Like I said, that's an OLD picture!

 

Just to make sure I have it right, that is a square of finished with FMP surrounded by the rest of the trunk after SHR?

 

Yes. I do the entire car with each polish before I move to the next polish.

 

Those 6 ( shaped marks on the upper right side of the darker square...what are those and how are they dealt with? I was getting something similar with FMP on a Charger I just detailed...Buttery got rid of them.

 

Those are just buffing marks. They will come off after I wipe the trunk down real good. It was humid as hell the day I had this clinic. I almost passed out.

[XQIZT]

Those 6 ( shaped marks on the upper right side of the darker square...what are those and how are they dealt with? I was getting something similar with FMP on a Charger I just detailed...Buttery got rid of them.

[Nordgrey]

 

At that point, I am ready to move on to FMP and the white pad. Now FMP will definitely leave a richer looking finish behind once you wipe it off. It is easiest to see on black cars. See if you can see the contrast here:

 

 

 

Just to make sure I have it right, that is a square of finished with FMP surrounded by the rest of the trunk after SHR?

[Junkman2008]

What do I look for? How do I tell an area is done and it is time to move to the next section? Well, I do this. When I start on a 2'x2' section using SHR and the orange pad, it will usually look like this:

 

 

I will stop working in that area once that area looks like this:

 

 

 

Now keep in mind that I am OCD and not the norm. You may or may not be able to get your paint that perfect.

 

At that point, I am ready to move on to FMP and the white pad. Now FMP will definitely leave a richer looking finish behind once you wipe it off. It is easiest to see on black cars. See if you can see the contrast here:

 

 

After one or two applications of FMP, I will then move to wax. My cars are so shiny by the time I get to wax, you will see no difference in the shine. If I layer the wax (MSW followed by Americana a day later), you may see some more depth but all of my shine comes before the wax. This picture is my car with no wax on it.

 

 

As you can see in the picture, I am still working with SHR (this is an old picture). The shine is going to get even deeper once I start working with FMP.

 

That's how I do it.

[Superdutytd]

Weather permitting, I'll be tackling my first job next weekend. Junkman recommends "perfecting" your technique and then do the entire car with that product. For example get the SHR technique down then do the entire vehicle with SHR before moving on to FMP versus doing all steps (SHR, FMP, MSW) on the one spot. My question is... will you be able to tell if you've "perfected" it without correcting the damage that you did with the SHR by applying the subsequent products?

 

You should be 80%+ corrected by SHR, FMP is mostly for shine, although it does have a decent cut to it.

[3BVert]

Weather permitting, I'll be tackling my first job next weekend. Junkman recommends "perfecting" your technique and then do the entire car with that product. For example get the SHR technique down then do the entire vehicle with SHR before moving on to FMP versus doing all steps (SHR, FMP, MSW) on the one spot. My question is... will you be able to tell if you've "perfected" it without correcting the damage that you did with the SHR by applying the subsequent products?

[Superdutytd]

I always find it a good idea to overlap by a few inches just to make sure nothing has been missed.

[Marylander]

Yes, the overlap was really were my question/thought was geared towords and that was if you were seeing none uniform "transition" between sections. I have seen this on dark colors doing by hand mind you and Not using Adams products.

 

Nothing to worry about. Machine polishing will be a lot more consistent than hand polishing, so you wont have any transition areas.

 

Btw, i know war you mean about the inconsistency that can be seen on hand polished cars... The guy starts out all enthusiastic and aggressive on one high-profile area, then starts to get tired, frustrated, anxious, etc and the rest of the car gets progressively less attention and worse and worse results.

[Fit08]

Exactly. I usually do the vette's hood in 4 "strips", each about 14 inches wide and running the length of the hood (front to back). Then each front fender is its own section, and each door is divided into two sections, use upper and one lower. And so on for the rest of the car. You'll naturally get a little overlap doing each section and it will all come out nice and uniform.

 

Yes, the overlap was really were my question/thought was geared towords and that was if you were seeing none uniform "transition" between sections. I have seen this on dark colors doing by hand mind you and Not using Adams products.

[Marylander]

So, in your case I assume a center crease in the hood for instance or a door molding that sort of "division marker"

 

Exactly. I usually do the vette's hood in 4 "strips", each about 14 inches wide and running the length of the hood (front to back). Then each front fender is its own section, and each door is divided into two sections, use upper and one lower. And so on for the rest of the car. You'll naturally get a little overlap doing each section and it will all come out nice and uniform.

[Chris@Adams]

I take center of hood, then 1/4 at a time.Other words the entire hood would be 8 sections or so. If you don't overlap a little you will miss spots.

[Sooners]

So, in your case I assume a center crease in the hood for instance or a door molding that sort of "division marker"

 

That's how I work. For example, the front quarter panels are usually a section. Larger areas I just find a point of reference to section the areas.

[bankO_MaN]

I usually perfect a 2x2 section to see what its going to take to get the perfect result, and then go panel by panel. Wipe w/ MFT then go on to the next step. . .

[Fit08]

I don't see any distinct overlap areas, but i don't do literally 2x2 square areas... I follow the lines of the car to determine "sections".

 

 

So, in your case I assume a center crease in the hood for instance or a door molding that sort of "division marker"