Yellow Pad not enough

[Moz]

I detailed my TransAm and it came out 95% scratch swirl free.Now I went and did my daily driver (2006 Chrysler 300).I cant get the scratches out.

I purchased the B2003 kit and it did not come with the yellow pad.So I purchased a yellow pad and attempted to do a full correction.

I went over just the trunk 4 times with the yellow pad and SHR.It still would not get out these scratches.

 

PC7424XP

The process I used was: (Just the trunk lid)

Washed/Foamed with Adams Car Shampoo (Grit Guard)

Clay bar/Detail spray

Orange Pad / SHR (1 time) 5000OPM

White Pad / FMP (1 time) 5000OPM

Gray Pad / MSW (1 time) 3000OPM

Received Yellow Pads

Clay bar / Detail spray

Yellow Pad / SHR (4 time) 5000OPM

Orange Pad / SHR (1 time) 5000OPM

White Pad / FMP (1 time) 5000OPM

Gray Pad / MSW (1 time) 3000OPM

When i'm appling product I mist each pad each time with 1 squirt of datail spray.Rub the product around and start the PC with it contacting the car.I use horizontal movements then go back over with vertical movements until the product is broken down.I apply enough pressure on the PC until I hear it slow down (Just barely) the unit ONLY with the SHR&FMP.I let the weight of the PC (and one hand) work in the SMW.I put (3) dime size drop's of product each product application / every application.

How come these scratches are not coming out?

Is the Chrysler clear coat that hard?

Please Help:help:

 

Thank You,

Moz

[Moz]

Moz! Well, it's key to realize, the orbital polisher is great for removing swirl marks and cobweb scratches. Deep scratches like the ones pictured on your decklid will likely need at minimum the 4" pad set, on a drill.

 

We are working on a ultra-fine sandpaper/ scratch remover kit. If the scratch is not phased by a 20 passes with the PC, or 3-4 with the 4" pads on the drill, it's likely going to need some sandpaper!

 

Don't worry, the process of sanding out scratches is less ominous than it sounds. . . .

 

Adam,A.J.

I did another (8) passes tonight,THEY CHANGED VERY VERY LITTLE ?

I think the Chrysler clear coat is very hard. 12 total passes and the finish is not corrected??

Maybe a little more abrasive SHR product is needed?

I'm ordering the 4" Focus pads and i'll see what happens.

 

Moz

[Moz]

Ive been waiting for this product since April. I'm glad to hear its coming along

 

I might be happy it's coming out too

[19stang88]

Moz! Well, it's key to realize, the orbital polisher is great for removing swirl marks and cobweb scratches. Deep scratches like the ones pictured on your decklid will likely need at minimum the 4" pad set, on a drill.

 

We are working on a ultra-fine sandpaper/ scratch remover kit. If the scratch is not phased by a 20 passes with the PC, or 3-4 with the 4" pads on the drill, it's likely going to need some sandpaper!

 

Don't worry, the process of sanding out scratches is less ominous than it sounds. . . .

 

Ive been waiting for this product since April. I'm glad to hear its coming along

[Kingsford]

We are working on a ultra-fine sandpaper/ scratch remover kit. If the scratch is not phased by a 20 passes with the PC, or 3-4 with the 4" pads on the drill, it's likely going to need some sandpaper!

 

Don't worry, the process of sanding out scratches is less ominous than it sounds. . . .

 

I love days when Adam teases new products!

[Junkman2008]

I only put (3) dime size drops on the pad.I know I dont have product build up because you can see every grain on the waffle pad when each attempt is done.

Maybe if I take a small video of how i'm attemping to remove these scratches.

 

Okay, I watch. I also want to see what products you're using.

[Moz]

I still have some micro marring and stuff in my paint I can get mine 95 % scratch free its a daily driver and even though i show the truck there are a few still here and there. remember not to use to much product when you were working on it did you try the junkman slow cut method? where he only used the small drops of product and then just hit with spray at a slower speed? remember to much product will clog the pad and make it less useful.

 

I only put (3) dime size drops on the pad.I know I dont have product build up because you can see every grain on the waffle pad when each attempt is done.

Maybe if I take a small video of how i'm attemping to remove these scratches.

[lawson4450]

I still have some micro marring and stuff in my paint I can get mine 95 % scratch free its a daily driver and even though i show the truck there are a few still here and there. remember not to use to much product when you were working on it did you try the junkman slow cut method? where he only used the small drops of product and then just hit with spray at a slower speed? remember to much product will clog the pad and make it less useful.

[Moz]

I've detailed a few 300's and the clear seemed no harder than most other dodge/chrysler clear coats. Perhaps the defects are just too deep... give them a go with the focus pads, if they don't come up with that you have 2 remaining options:

 

1) wet sanding

 

2) repainting

 

Which i'll do neither of,but Adam was mentioning a new product:xfingers:

You would think after (17) passes it would lighten them up a lil???

 

Thanks

[Team Adam's]

I've detailed a few 300's and the clear seemed no harder than most other dodge/chrysler clear coats. Perhaps the defects are just too deep... give them a go with the focus pads, if they don't come up with that you have 2 remaining options:

 

1) wet sanding

 

2) repainting

[Moz]

I thought I would try another product (non Adams) while i'm waiting for my Focus pad set to come this week.

Well I went out today and purchased a more aggresive compound than the SHR and went over my Chrysler decklid 5 more times,SCRATHES STILL THERE!

Does anyone know if Chrysler (2006) just has a VERY hard clear coat?

Im bummed.That is a total of 17 passes with the yellow pad and (2) different correction products and them **** scratches are still there.The finish is like no other but the scratches

[Osok]

Any recommendations?

 

Thank You,

Moz

It's a non Adams product so not sure about their policy here for naming other brands. PM me if you want and I can let you know what I used.

[Junkman2008]

Adam,A.J.

I did another (8) passes tonight,THEY CHANGED VERY VERY LITTLE ?

I think the Chrysler clear coat is very hard. 12 total passes and the finish is not corrected??

Maybe a little more abrasive SHR product is needed?

I'm ordering the 4" Focus pads and i'll see what happens.

 

Moz

 

Let's see what the focus pads do. Remember, on a drill, the focus pads act just like a rotary machine. Be very aware of that.

[DanFish]

Uh oh. Another product I cant wait to purchase.

 

Love Adams polishes!

[Natch02]

Uh oh. Another product I cant wait to purchase.

[Adam]

Moz! Well, it's key to realize, the orbital polisher is great for removing swirl marks and cobweb scratches. Deep scratches like the ones pictured on your decklid will likely need at minimum the 4" pad set, on a drill.

 

We are working on a ultra-fine sandpaper/ scratch remover kit. If the scratch is not phased by a 20 passes with the PC, or 3-4 with the 4" pads on the drill, it's likely going to need some sandpaper!

 

Don't worry, the process of sanding out scratches is less ominous than it sounds. . . .

[Chris@Adams]

Chris how much pressure were you using and how slow were you moving your:pc: pc?

[Moz]

You could also think about a slightly more aggressive compound to use with the yellow pad.

 

Any recommendations?

 

Thank You,

Moz

[Osok]

You could also think about a slightly more aggressive compound to use with the yellow pad.

[Moz]

deep!

 

Just because you can't feel them with your nail doesn't mean that they are not deep. That may mean that they are not through the clear coat but they can still be deep. There's no way to tell how deep a scratch is unless you have years of experience.

 

I wouldn't be so fast to grab the flex though. That is a totally different ball game and you can eat some paint away with that thing, especially with the yellow pad and shr. The edges on your car will be the first to suffer if you do not know how to use that machine. You won't realize it until it is too late. I would master the pc before going that route.

 

If you want to protect your car until you get back to it, skip fmp and just add wax. Since you're going to come back and use shr on it again, there is no need to waste fmp. Shr is going to strip the wax and undo what fmp does anyway once you use it again.

 

10-4

[Junkman2008]

... When I run a finger nail over the scratches I cannot feel them,so how deep could they be?

 

DEEP!

 

Just because you can't feel them with your nail doesn't mean that they are not deep. That may mean that they are not THROUGH the clear coat but they can still be deep. There's no way to tell how deep a scratch is unless you have years of experience.

 

I wouldn't be so fast to grab the Flex though. That is a totally different ball game and you can eat some paint away with that thing, especially with the yellow pad and SHR. The edges on your car will be the first to suffer if you do not know how to use that machine. You won't realize it until it is too late. I would master the PC before going that route.

 

If you want to protect your car until you get back to it, skip FMP and just add wax. Since you're going to come back and use SHR on it again, there is no need to waste FMP. SHR is going to strip the wax and undo what FMP does anyway once you use it again.

[6spdg37s]

that sounds like doing my vette we had to do a lot of passes with the orange to correct the damage

[Moz]

This is not at all uncanny. You could easily have damage in the paint that is deep (too deep to remove), or have some seriously hard clear coat. Here's what you are however, doing wrong. If the scratches were still there are 5 passes with the yellow pad, you should have never stopped using the yellow pad. The yellow and orange pads are for removing damage. If after 5 passes the damage remained, then you should have continued with the yellow pad. Why move to the next step when you haven't completed the first step? The other steps are useless if you were trying to remove that damage.

 

Here's where I would begin to question myself if I were you. If after 20 passes I saw absolutely no change, I would begin to question either my technique or the equipment I'm using. Some damage may require a more aggressive machine. Of course, this really ramps up the danger level. That may however be the case. Since you were able to get results from the first car that you did, a more powerful machine might be the answer. However, you have not done nearly enough passes to come to that decision.

 

So lets go back to the drawing board and knock out 20 passes. Then let me know what happens.

 

Hey Right On Junkman2008 !

The reason I did the yellow after the first round was,I had a different light source that showed what I missed.I DO understand what you meen by:

" Why move to the next step when you haven't completed the first step?"

The reason I did this is because it's my daily driver and i'm getting ready for a road trip to Wisconsin Dells (vacation destination) for my B-Day this weekend.I wanted to have the protection on the car until I could do some research and/or get some feed back,i'm glad YOU chimmed in on my post.

I will do the 20 passes and let you know the outcome.

I think it's the hardness of the clear coat,why would it take some many passes on my car?

When I run a finger nail over the scratches I cannot feel them,so how deep could they be?

I know that the scratches could be deeper than others but its not a abused (I'm a consultant/sales rep) vehicle,i try to have a good appearence for my clients/customers.I dont set anything on the car,so i'm assuming my wash habit's were incorrect prior to finding this website.I would think the scratches were like everyone elses in that using Adams products help 80-95% of the people here?

I am considering maybe the Flex XC3401VRG ? I'm willing to try the Flex before even considering a rotary polisher like Makita,DeWalt.

 

Moz

[Junkman2008]

This is not at all uncanny. You could easily have damage in the paint that is deep (too deep to remove), or have some seriously hard clear coat. Here's what you are however, doing wrong. If the scratches were still there are 5 passes with the yellow pad, you should have never stopped using the yellow pad. The yellow and orange pads are for removing damage. If after 5 passes the damage remained, then you should have continued with the yellow pad. Why move to the next step when you haven't completed the first step? The other steps are useless if you were trying to remove that damage.

 

Here's where I would begin to question myself if I were you. If after 20 passes I saw absolutely no change, I would begin to question either my technique or the equipment I'm using. Some damage may require a more aggressive machine. Of course, this really ramps up the danger level. That may however be the case. Since you were able to get results from the first car that you did, a more powerful machine might be the answer. However, you have not done nearly enough passes to come to that decision.

 

So lets go back to the drawing board and knock out 20 passes. Then let me know what happens.