blcksilv08

It will not as long as you dilute it properly. The only issue I've seen people have with rinseless is not diluting it properly and leaving a small amount of residue behind.

Thanks for coming and seeing us at the auction! Glad we could help you out and get some deals for you. We definitely are trying to spread out and cover more shows, it's just tough logistically. Do you remember who you talked to at the show?

That's a fairly broad question. What all are you doing? Basic interior, in depth interior? Polishing, if so how many steps?

Really depends on how much it builds up and what the dust consists of. If it's pollen or industrial waterless or rinseless will work with caution. Like @falcaineer said, waterless is my go to followed by detail spray or the new ceramic waterless (which is amazing by the way).

Just trying to get some additional info that may help. How much time would you say it takes to make it around the entire truck while washing? I understand that's a ton of paint area to cover. Also, how much car shampoo are you using? It happens on all the vehicles you wash? I know I have fought this before on large vehicles like the Adams Freightliner and crew cab long bed trucks.

Been there my friend! It feels so right though when complete. Not sure if it will let me insert this video clip or not from my phone..... Was it like this? Snapchat-1862258265.mp4

Those are some of the most satisfying jobs. I've polished everything from Veyrons to rare original cars to new cars and the results on someone's high mileage daily drivers are the best turn around for the amount of work put in.

Some static is normal and ceramic definitely feels a bit different to remove compared to traditional sealants and waxes. Glad everything turned out great!

The difference you'll notice between the two grades of clay is how quickly you can remove contaminates. The trade off with clay is always a chance of leaving light marring behind. That being said the fine grade clay is less likely to leave marring behind but will not remove a large amount of contaminates quickly. So on a vehicle that doesn't get much build up of contaminates the fine is a great option. There's nothing wrong with the Visco kit you're using as long as you're using proper lubrication with it. It's just another choice as so many people have many different situations. Hope this helps!

Sorry to hear you had some issues in removing the Ceramic Spray Coating. I've had some issues before just due to something as simple as the amount of moisture in the air or lack there of. I've not had issues with the towels leaving stuff behind, generally I just give them a good snap to make sure there are no loose fibers. Did the coating still work properly? Meaning is the surface super slick? Did you apply the coating inside a garage?

Did you happen to feel the surface in that area? Sometimes contaminates can stick to the surface even being coated, especially in an area that gets spray from the road. I still have to use Iron Remover and clay every so often in areas like that. If the rest of the car is still beading pretty good I would check that first.

When I do wash outside when it's cold I like to wear runners gloves and cover them with longer nitrile gloves. Little bit of insulation and hand don't get wet, still have plenty of dexterity!

Unfortunately I only know of two Goodguys events this year, PPG nationals in Columbus, Ohio and Colorado nationals. There's a ton of events going on this year and they try to keep the big truck and trailer rolling in one loop as opposed to bouncing all over.

Ceramic Spray works well on wheels for sure. I've done both the actual wheel coating and spray. The standard coating holds on way longer, best thing I've done as far as making maintenance washes easier. For reference, I drive in Ohio/Indiana/Michigan Winters and it's held up phenomenally.

Goodguys PPG nationals, 6500 cars! Plus the Adams show rig is there, we do demonstrations and sell products.