03blackSSS

I got it working again. I soaked it in water  to help soften up any soap residue that may be in the tip. 

I filled the bottle up with water and ran it. After about 2/3 of the bottle it started spraying good again. I worked the tip and the knob multiple times. Then ran another bottle of just water through it. I am figuring it was probably soap residue clogging it.

When I use it I stop it right before the bottle runs empty so I am not washing the soap of the car. But I may start spraying it for a bit after on the ground to run some water through it. 

Yeah I'll grab a pic of the adaptor. It was just the very end of the tip was a hair too long. It slid in just fine, but would not allow the wand lock ring to engage. 

Not really, when it happens. When it's working yes it does change.   It would spray great, then suddenly start dumping everything in the bottle out the nozzle, and my pressure sprayer wouldn't be able to keep up. I'd let off the handle and it would do it again.

I thought it was my pressure sprayer, but I used it multiple times cleaning stuff around the house and it worked flawlessly with the high pressure tip. 

The next time I used the cannon it did the same thing. Worked for great for a couple panels, then started emptying the bottle with within a couple panels. 

I may take it apart and soak it to get any soap residue out. I'll let you know what happens

Yes, with the quick connect. The adapter that came with the cannon was a tad too long and wouldn't lock. So I ground it down a tad and it went right in. 

I will try cleaning it and see if that helps. I guess something could have gotten caught inside it. If not I'll get ahold of MTM. Thanks for the help!

I recently started having a problem with my foam cannon. I am using a Ryobi electric pressure washer and it works great. Just enough pressure for my needs and foams really nice!

The last 2 times I used my foam cannon, it will foam for about the first 1/3rd of the bottle. Then it suddenly starts shooting a straight stream with just foamy water. It will then empty my entire bottle in only a couple panels

The tip is adjusted to a flat spray, and the knob is turned to have as much soap as possible

Anyone else experienced this before?

So this was my last ditch effort to make this cover look decent, otherwise it was coming off. I cleaned it throughly with boars hair brush, and diluted APC in sections. Wiped off and allowed to dry. Then conditioned with block sponge and leather conditioner, really working it in.  Knocked down with a clean utility towel. Then I knocked it down again with waterless wash and clean utility towel. I think it turned out nice. The leather conditioner seamed to nourish then cover, rather than sit on top the surface. 

Yeah it does look dirty- Its aluminum under that thin cover. If it comes down to it, i'd just take it off and get a different one. It's not waterproof anyways. 

Sorry I changed the settings on the album, should be able to enlarge them. 

It is similar to a roll-n-lock, different brand. It was on the truck when I bought it (Honestly I would rather have my agri-fab cover off my old truck) I've had the truck 2 years and the cover has always been the hardest thing to deal with making look good, and it is an older cover. I may try the leather conditioner as you mentioned. I'm going to wash the truck saturday, so I'll try scrubbing the cover really clean and try that in a section.

Yeah I'll grab some pics tonight when I get home

Ok, so I have a  hardcover roll up bed cover  on my truck. It's aluminum with a rubber/vinyl cover that rolls up. It have become the hardest thing to clean and make look good. It streaks, and won't take the super VRT in straight or milk form. 

I have tried cleaning with diluted APC to clean then treat, then full strength APC,  but it isn't working. The SVRT doesn't seem to absorb into the cover. I figured it has some silicone or some coating I can't get through. 

Is there a stronger cleaner that would be safe to clean it, or a better process I can try?

How long will quick sealant last on a DD underneath a vehicle? I was thinking about doing our new outback before the snow hits to help protect it

I agree on the DVD. I was thinking about getting my new brother in law a sample kit, (which was the first thing I ordered) to get him hooked. Once I checked, I never saw the kit available any longer. The DVD and sample kit was a great tool to get someone started. 

Yeah, I have had a bunch of black vehicles. It's not until I found this forum did I start to hate it. I lovely silverado clean, but the extra work trying to keeps holograms, swirls, and scratches out drives me nuts. My 98 outback it doesn't matter, the paint is trashed already. 

The beautiful thing about this new outback, it took a 2 hr drive from the factory, and straight into my hands. No rail dust or dealer installed swirls!!!

It's called Carbide gray. It has bluish/purpleish metallic in it. I love the color. We almost went black metallic, but I can't handle a third black vehicle 

Here she is the day after we drove it back home. Washed, sealed, and waxed! The paint has zoo much metallic in it, We love it! The overall fit and finish of the build quality amazed me. 

I like the carbon fiber radiator cover, is that custom or someone making that?

I don't have a pressure washer (yet), but that underbody lance will be on my wish list when I get there.

This part is painted like the rest of the body, so I don't think a brush (for me) would be applicable.

I may try spraying APC on it, wash the rest of the truck, spray it again, and wash with a old wash pad? 

These body cladding panels have a real soft clear on them. I can't hardly even wipe polish off after polishing and not re-introduce new swirls. 

So I bought my silverado SS last year. From the side you would never see the baked on filth that is on the bottom of my cladding below the rockers. It lays parallel with the ground, so laying underneath you see it… 

Road grime, roadkill nastiness…. I can't seem to get it off. I guess the previous owner never cleaned this portion, or maybe I have become too picky. 

How are people getting this stuff off without messing up the paint black underneath?

When I used the LPS the first time, I had the same problem. I used too much. I did notice it's VERY hard to remove from my yellow hex applicator. APC pure won't take it all out. So that is not my sealant pad only.

Are there plans on bringing to hex applicators back in the future?

Thanks guys!

We will be getting a new outback in the coming weeks, and I want to start it's life out right. My question is regarding the curing of the paint. When having something repainted (Classic cars), they always did recommend allowing about 30-60 days for the paint to not only cure, but allow it to off-gas. Unless this has changed with the use of water based paints, I am unsure. This was 10 years ago when I was told this. 

Does this apply to cars built at the factory? Or are the pretty much cured once they leave due to manufacturing processes? I just was to get this thing cleaned and sealed ASAP

Man, just didn't search enough- Thanks though!

Are the single soft's leaving? I just noticed they weren't on the site. Being replaced with the borderless blue's?

I actually didn't have a problem with it gumming up. When I was done most of the fibers were seemingly "fluffed."

It may be just me, but it seemed the polish "flashed" a little quicker than with the foam pads. I didn't have problems when working on curves with buildup on the panels either. I struggle with that on the foam pads, not sure if I use too much product or what. Only when the pad cannot be flat due to curves. With these I never had that problem.

I just got the MF pads in friday- I was using the foam pads with the swirl/haze remover, fine machine polish. The last gen polishes. It was taking much longer to polish out swirls and scratches in the paint on my black truck- and even leaving some that I found "acceptable." 

With the MF pads using the same polishes, it can out much faster, and much better. I am stoked about these. Course the clear is softer on this truck, but I love how it turned out. Much less dusting as well. 

Here is a 50/50 shot using MF pads and older polishes. About 95% correction w/o using the severe swirl and green pad. (Still using up my old stock)