tonymix17

3 hours ago, 2012srt8 said:

today's cars are worse then ever. I've seen 3 year old pick ups from Chevy and ford where the doors and rockers are already rusting. my friends 2008 Silverado started in 2010. fixed under warrenty and 1 year later rusting out again. once it had been fixed 3 times and the warrenty was up he sold it. I seen his old truck 3 weeks ago and its completely rotted out on the box and the rockers and doors.  I will always have every vehicle I own sprayed unless it's a summer only toy

True because of the new laws. Paints are thinner and less quality making chips, dings, scuffs, and scratches easier. 

1 hour ago, 2012srt8 said:

nope.even ceramic coating wont fix that. I live In windsor,ont.same weather as you.my truck was oil sprayed 5 months after i bought it.should only cost you $100.they will drill holes around your door jams in my case they were there from the factory with rubber caps. they then fill your rockers with oil and spray the whole underside of your car with a thin oil. the main brand is called krown rust prevention,at least it is here in canada.  a lot of automotive shops can do this for you

Im talking about the bottom panel of the door inside and out. You can use that rust stuff on the outside of the car? Nice. How long does it last? 

36 minutes ago, Rich said:

Years ago, that's what we all did when we bought a car.............paid to have it rust proofed.  Zeibart, Rusty Jones, and any number of other brands.  And it worked. But todays cars don't need it.  Not sure why you're having that problem on every car you owned.  I know personally I've never had that happen except on cars I bought in the 70's and early 80's. 

My 2000 Ford Ranger rusted. My 2002 Ford Taurus are rusted. My 1993 Infiniti J 30 rusted. I have a 2013 Corolla  I just don’t want to Russ. The closest place to do rust proofing is 5.5 hours away I’ll check the local area again. 

13 minutes ago, 2012srt8 said:

you need to have it oil sprayed yearly.paint sealant will do nothing

How much does that cost, where can I get that done, and  really? No amount of any chemical can prevent that? 

have had issues with all of my cars rust on the bottom of the doors. Bought  a newly used car and do not want that to happen again when i go to sell it. How do i prevent that from occurring? Paint sealant every 6 months coupled with h20 g&g every other month? Also used glass sealant on all windows and soon the headlights and tail lights. Should i do the wheels with paint sealant as well? Car sits outside year round in Chicago weather, burning cold winters with snow and salt, scorching hot summers, and flood like rains in spring. Thanks y'all. 

I absolutely love the Glass Sealant - it could possibly be my favorite Adam's chemical product (if not, it's definitely in the top 3).  It works extremely, extremely well.  I can't really say how long it lasts by itself because I also use the Glass Boost on it (plus, I reapply the Glass Sealant probably more often than I need to because I want to keep its performance at its peak - before the sealant even begins to wear off).  But I easily get a few months out of the Sealant & Glass Boost combo.

 

This sounds crazy, I know, but I still smile every single time it starts raining and I get to watch the water fly off the windshield.  I drove to work yesterday in the rain and didn't even need to use my wipers until I got down under 35 mph (and I last applied Glass Sealant in July, I think - using Glass Boost just once in that time period).

 

I also like the fact that I seem to have less water spotting on the glass after rainstorms than I used to get prior to using the sealant.  

 

If you're only going to get one product at a time, I would get the actual Glass Sealant first and then the Glass Boost later.  By itself, Glass Sealant would provide better results than just the Boost alone, in my opinion.

thanks brotha!

1. I usually get a few months out of glass sealant alone here in Oregon, where it rains 3/4 of the year. It lasts even longer if I add glass boost when needed

 

2. Yes it is SOOO much better than rainx, no competition adams is much better.

 

3. I found that the glass sealant repels water off glass easier and faster than the guard and gloss does. I don’t do my windows with guard and gloss anymore I only use the glass sealant and boost as I found it works much better.

 

4. I would say get the boost. It takes the sealant from an application every 2-3 months to going 2-3 months, soray some boost on and go another couple months. I usually do the glass sealant 2 times a year. The kit is well worth it. I no longer use my wipers and it makes cleaning the windshield super easy as well!

thanks have you just used the glass boost alone? how well does that work as a stand alone? I'm going to get both but just not all at once to be honest. 

hey guys i have a few questions about the glass sealant. 1 being how long does it typically last ( i know that's asking a lot) but for the people who live in or by or similar weather conditions to Chicago could help me out? 

2nd is it better than rainx? 

3rd i've just been using h20 g&g for the whole truck and seems to work fine but, i want something that will last a long time as in a few months on the windows? 

4th how well does glass sealant and glass boost work? will that last a long time? is it worth the money as well? 

does h20 guard and gloss build up?

I'd recommend two coats of Paint Sealant tops. Maintain with H2OGG every couple weeks. This should last you a good 5 - 6 months.

 

And yes - give it about an hour between coats.

how long do you let your sealant sit until you wipe it off? 

thanks yall 

i'm wondering if i can apply paint sealent ever 2-3 months or a few layers in one day. my truck is a dd, parked outside year round, live in chicago, cold winters, hot summers. question is can i layer the sealant meaning i wash, clay polish ext then paint sealant one coat wait 30 minutes to an hour put down another coat and so fourth?? trying to have layer upon layer of protection and have it build up overtime to a nice shine for a long long time, or just put coats down ever 2-3 months?? some companies not sure if adams is the same but some companies products allow to lay down multiple layers without it hazing up. think of a military book super shinny and clean. That is due to layer upon layer of cleaner and polishing. 

so i have started a side detailing business at my house an cant afford power tools so i do everything by hand ex compound, polish, wax ect. now my question is how come every time i apply polish some of it i literally have to take two hands and scrub off the part of the car? i have adams compound, and polish hand pads. is it because i have to rub it in the car more or i used to much? 

To keep the trim looking good and not worry about waxing, put VRT on before you wax!! The VRT protects the trim from the wax.

No i put in on my trim and wheel wells. Well see how water resistant it is! It just rained for 4 hours hard. Hopeully it doesnt come off!!

No, after a wash or two your trim will be the same as it was before. VRT and In & Out Spray are both dressings that you would have to easily re-apply.

Question for you. What would cause trim to turn severely white after product has wore off? If the trim was not initially that white before?

When the VRT where is off does it leave the trim white and faded worst than prior use of it? Also for those of you who have used in an out spray same question but with the spray? Thanks

Does anyone dilute the wheel cleaner??

With our Paint Sealant, it can be a somewhat tricky product to apply the first time you use it. You will want to make sure to apply it as thin and even as possible, whether applying by hand or by machine. With a machine, after thoroughly shaking the bottle, I will squeeze out a small amount in a circle on a gray foam pad, and then spread that onto a panel, e.g. half of a hood, using zero downward pressure on the machine, at a slow speed setting. You aren't trying to do any correction at all with this product, so there is no need to press down on the pad at all - just keep the pad face flat to the surface and under control.

 

I do let LPS haze up onto the surface longer than I would with our Buttery Wax, Brilliant Glaze, etc, sometimes 15-20 minutes or more before wiping off the residue. Then I will always flip my towel over and wipe a second time to ensure I don't have any smearing effects afterward.

 

With H2O Guard, it gives a similar effect, as it is an acrylic based sealant as well, but it's not quite as durable. However, on my last daily driver, I can say that I applied a coat of H2O Guard in February and it was still beading water excellently more than 4 months later as a test, and the only thing under it as far as protection was the layer of H2O Guard that I had applied a few months before that. So it is a fairly durable product in some cases, but it does work awesome and it is easy enough that I like to use it every 4-5 washes normally for added shine and protection.

 

With the thickness of LPS, it would be difficult to make it into a spray without an entire reformulation of the product, and then it would no longer be a good product to apply with a machine as well.

My only problem is i dont have a machine all i have is applicator pads. So now how do i do it then!! Hah! A quarter size dropplet and just rub onto car? No smearing it in the applicator pad correct?

Dam i guess i put it on too thick can someone with photos show how much i should put on a pad besides a quarter and see how it looks once applied to the vehicle? It looked covered like a polish by the time i was done. I just want the water to run off an car to be protected is all i want ????

thought liquid paint sealant lasts 6-8 months depending upon the conditions and how much guard an gloss you use to maintain it. what i'm suggesting it that a make a sprayable paint sealant like guard and gloss. guard and gloss doesn't last that long maybe a few weeks from what i've heard. 

thoughts? just applied my first layer of it on my truck and it took some time. a spray would be so much easier and convenient 

Cool thanks yall just needed some more input. Thinking about buying a junkyard hood and polishing on that to get good at polishing.

Some clear coats you can start with the Orange Pad & CP and be finished to perfection with only one step.

for sure!

any reason why i should go with adams if the other products im using are getting the job done? and i know it smells GOOD!! hah. how have you been liking using the polish products? also the metal cleaner?

adams has a similar process correct? correcting polish and finishing polish?