NacsMXer

Well I decided to bite the bullet and schedule it. I'm getting the front end, doors forward, mirrors, roof and a pillars, lower splitters and below the door to the seam behind the door, and behind the rear tires. That will leave the doors, rear  end, and the rear deck with paint and the rest of it covered. If it starts looking bad I'll just either get it repaired or cut my losses and remove it. Getting the windows tinted as well.

Good choice.  I bit the bullet and had Xpel Ultimate done on my 2014 Mustang GT/CS when I first bought it.  I had basically the entire front end, mirrors, rockers to the back bumper, and front 10 inches of the roof covered.  All it took was one nasty rock chip in my A-pillar the 4th time I drove the car to decide that was enough.  You will be glad you did it years down the road when your front end won't have a single rock chip in it. 

Another great thing about Xpel i've come to really appreciate is the self healing properties of it.  With the whole front end covered in it, I don't need to be nearly as careful/paranoid when washing and wiping the car down as the rest of the uncovered paint.  If you accidentally put a light scratch/swirl mark in it, it will self heal by sitting out in the warm sun.  You can also just pour warm water over it and the scratch will magically disappear.  Truly amazing.  Also the bugs come off a whole lot easier as the film is pretty slick stuff with a proper sealant over it. 

Just reinforcing your decision as I am super happy I took the plunge on the Xpel Ultimate myself!

I use a plastic butter knife to scrape up some wax from the tub and then "butter" up the pad to my liking.  Simple, and works great!

Thanks for sharing your experience with it Mook. One thing is for sure, this handy valve sure beats running back and forth to the wall spigot!

So the lever is wiggly, but its not opening or closing too easily correct? Seems pretty much how mine is. Normal operation. Mine has some play at either position, but it doesn't move the valve on the inside.

Yep, that is exactly how mine behaves. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have a wonky valve or something. Thank you for verifying that

If you want it to be more solid you can tighten the nut on top and it will hold it, but as far as the function goes, with water pressure behind it the lever will stay in place (open or close) very well.

 

When there is no pressure it will flop around loosely, nothing wrong with it... absolutely the way its supposed to be.

Thanks for the reply Dylan. I know exactly what you mean by it flopping loosely without water pressure. But even with water pressure behind it, mine has play. It's not a huge issue or anything, more like a small annoyance. Just wondering if everybody's valve was like that or not.

I have adjusted the nut every which way, and the second you start to eliminate some of the play in the lever, the lever becomes considerably harder to open/close. There's not much middle ground in adjusting the nut; it's either smooth/easy with a lot of play, or hard to turn with a little play.

Here's a quick vid of my valve with the water turned on.

Dramm shut off valve play - YouTube

Also, what's up with the shut off valve's lever having a lot of play in it? Do yours have play as well? I wouldn't mind if the action was a bit more solid.

Hmmm. I've never noticed this on mine but probably wasn't paying too much attention to it. I'll have check mine out in the morning.

 

But if you're not putting too much pressure to push it all the way open then I'm sure the force of the water is doing the same to create maximum flow.

It actually had a little bit of resistance to push the ball fully open. Being brand new that didn't surprise me, but it's definitely not free floating. IDK about water pressure pushing it open.

I also noticed the lever moves smoothly/without resistance when not installed on the hose. When you install it onto the hose the lever takes significantly more effort to turn. I think this is normal since when you tighten it onto the hose, the threads from the hose are pushing on the rubber gasket, which pushes on the ball valve...making the lever harder to turn.

So I just received my Adams shut off valve and I noticed something odd about it. The ball valve only opens 90% of the way in the full open position. I can manually push the ball valve all the way open with my finger, but when I close and open the valve again via the lever it goes back to 90% open. I tried adjusting the lock nut to remove the play and get the ball to move in sync with the lever when fully open but it didn't help any. Is this normal/do your valves act the same? I want all the flow I can get. Thanks.