Agent 009

Has anyone ever tried to use a swirl killer or equivalent to polish a hard floor? If so, what products and pads did you use? 

I'm in the process of buying a house and was looking to maybe get a tool I can use for some wall sanding, some floor polishing and after all is done, some car polishing. I know what you’re thinking...i’m out of my mind because these three worlds don’t seem like they should overlap. However, I feel like with the right machine, pad and product combo, they can.

So i’ve used glass sealant in one form or another for years on my shower doors, but it got me thinking...are there other products in the lineup that have interesting other uses? I was testing the ceramic waterless wash on my painted tile shower stall just for the fun of it. Any other fun ones?

So, I purchased the sampler pack, and wanted to keep a few items bundled together with me in the car like the detail spray, waterless wash, interior cleaner and some mf towels. But I wanted a small pouch to keep them in. something smaller than the black box it all came in. think along the lines of those first aid kits you would find in many Lexus vehicles. 

Anyone have something like this they can recommend? 

First off with new paint that's baked on you don't need to wait.

As far as BG first or PS first, it comes down to a personal preference......

I always apply BG under PS....it does not affect the longevity of your PS.

I even take it a step farther I apply BG over my polish residue and wipe them both off with one swipe, I get the benefit of the BG and the polish residue wipes off easier.

That being said if you feel strongly about applying your PS first by all means do it.

No disrespect to everyone else's posts, because you all gave me a little something to think about, but Chris, I think you put it all together really well.

Thanks to everyone for the great advice. Now, to tackle this monster...TO BE CONTINUED (with pictures)...

so i know this topic has probably come up a squillion times on here, so feel free to point me to an existing thread that i'm just not seeing. but here we go...

i just picked up my 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee. it just got delivered to the dealer from the plant and is less than a month old. (ordered may 13th, built June 1st, delivered June 16th, picked up June 18th...hell of a quick turnaround. no complaints here. ) So i'm waiting 30 days for the paint to properly breath and finish curing and all. (if you think i should wait longer, let me know.) so i'm figuring around the July 4th weekend when i have a little free time on my hands, thats when i would attack this thing with the Adam's treatment. my question is the order in which i apply everything.

i have 2 conflicting pieces of info that i want to get cleared up. 1) sealant applies best to bare naked paint with nothing else on it. and 2) glaze should go on before a sealant. you might be thinking "why am i glazing a brand new vehicle. well, there are a few little microscratches on there, probably from handling off and on the car carrier. so i'm looking to give it a good bath with some clay if it needs it, sparingly use a little revive to try to get out any little spots that have formed over the last few weeks. then brilliant glaze, liquid paint sealant, then a coat of americana.

any thoughts? better ideas? any input would be appreciated.

thanks in advance.

not sure if i have this in the appropriate part of the forum, but here i go.

i have a 22' vinyl banner mounted on my building. gets direct sun almost all day. is vrt something that can help protect it from fading? or has anyone even done something similar?

Good stuff guys. Thanks for all the input. And a great catch with the towels. I can't believe i didn't catch that before. I knew microfibers and high heat didn't get along. Good thing I said that. My microfibers thank you for saving their lives. 

I'll report back after i finish up. Wish me luck.

so this might seem a little off topic for this part of the forum, but the tips and techniques that might be discussed can easily be applied to a car interior...

so we've got this leather couch in the "decorative living room" that doesn't get much use or love with cleaning. as a result, the leather is stating to get a little stiff and almost ashy. same is the case with 2 la-z-boys sitting in our patio enclosure. not a climate controlled room so it goes through the weather changes almost like a car does. 

i've been tasked with cleaning and conditioning all 3 pieces this weekend, and i want to do what i can to rejuvenate the leather and protect it. i heard a while back (and don't know the validity of it) that using steam to help clean the leather can help open up the pores of the leather so it can accept more conditioner, in turn allowing it to become softer and more supple than it was. obviously, you have to be careful using a steamer on anything since it can get super hot and damage things, but i thought with enough caution and a super plush microfiber on the end, it sounds crazy enough to work. 

does anyone have any other tips or tricks or techniques? 

oh, shine doc? where for art thou, shine doc? 

so i just got my hands on a milwaukee m12 polisher/sander and it came with a few pads in the bundle. obviously, i'd prefer to use the adams orange and white focus pads, and i plan to. but since it came with this wool pad, i thought maybe i could get some use out of it for some really gnarly headlights. i was just wondering what polish would work best with it. i'm assuming the paint correcting polish would be the appropriate choice. i also have some severe swirl remover too but i didn't know if that would be too much. 

anyone have any thoughts?

Good to know. Thanks for the advice.

Metal polish pads can go longer without needing to be swapped out because the Metal Polishes are completely liquid, so nothing dries up or gets caked inside the foam like paint polishes do. If you are doing a lot of metal polishing in one go, I say swap the pads out for fresh ones once you see they aren't working 100%.

even though they're getting black from the metal?

Not to hijack the thread...but is it important to use the same pad for polish #1 each time, or can you just clean both pads and use either for #1 or #2 without concern?

i was curious about this too. and how much polishing can i do before i need to switch out pads or clean mine out?

You can achieve the same level as correction. It will just take more time and passes with the PC.

This hits the nail on the head.  But your budget plays an important part as well - PC is a nice tool in that price range.

Exactly what I was thinking. Thank you all for the feedback.

so i'm looking into getting a polisher and i'm thinking about getting a porter cable since i'm new to machine polishing. but i had a question about the cutting power of a pc with the microfiber pads. i know the microfiber pads have more cutting ability than the foam pads, but how does the pc with microfiber pads compare to lets say a flex with foam pads? i know you can get faster results with the flex, but can you achieve a similar level of correction?

any chance we'll see a 36oz bottle of TID anytime soon?

I just got my new shipment of products last week and got my much needed refill on in and out spray. But when I started using it, I couldn't help but notice a different smell. It's very reminiscent of Shea butter to me. Was this an intentional change of something that happened due to changes to meet voc regulations? Or am I just crazy?

****...you did one hell of a number on that truck. your cousin should be nothing less then awe-stricken.

and one hell of a write up too. i just got my adam's delivery friday and i'm gonna be thoroughly going over my charger within the next few weeks and watching the progress you made with this ford is giving me some motivation...now maybe if i show this to my dad, it will motivate him to clean up his f-250. haha