Skywalker

This is definitely my favorite Adam's product. It works wonders on coated leather with little to no agitation. Even though there are products that work as well, the LIC is definitely the safest cleaner and a little goes a long ways. I took my 16oz bottle and put it into the 4oz bottle for use as I actually use less. It is tempting to use a lot, but you really don't need to.

Like others have said, you can polish shortly after a repaint, just not wax/seal.

There are plenty of pure polishes on the market that consist mostly of oils that can be used. Although they are termed glazes in many instances, and come off after the car is washed, they can form a temporary protective barrier until the outgassing period passes.

Interesting products for sure... and super durable. Some of the claims are a TAD exaggerated (for example the claims of outright scratch resistance) but some of these new coatings are impressive and do have extremely long durability. Literally measured in terms of years, not months. The catch is obviously you are sealing in any defects you have long term with a product like this so you have to A) get your paint perfect first and apply the product correctly. The only way to remove it once its applied is abrasion (polishing)

 

Now... that being said you can top them with wax just like any other 'sealant' if you like... no issues there at all. I've played with a few of them on the market for my own personal edification. The margin for error in a 'novices' hands is fairly high so as the technology exists now its not a product we're yet dabbling in.

 

 

Plus... with QS offering 5 months + for most customers and all of us actually enjoying the process of detailing it seems like something that would take the joy out of my favorite hobby.

 

 

EDIT - one other thing, these should not be confused with the stuff like Xillion you get at the car dealer for $500 on a new car.

Very true. OC 2.0 is much more scratch resistant than a typical clear coat, but by no means is OC or Hard Body scratch resistant in itself. And I have not been able to get anything to stick to OC, neither have many others. But waxes or sealants will look good for a short while but they don't bond to it enough to last long.

Luckily the new nano-sealants are as easy to apply to Quick Sealant is, but they only last 2 years, they aren't permanent. I have been putting a permanent coating on my vehicle recently, but I have been really diligent in polishing the paint to perfection first as, like Dylan said, you need to polish the coating off.

I too do like traditional detailing though, I find the permanent coatings to be invaluable on wheels and barrels, headlights, and other areas that are hard to maintain, but everywhere else QS, Americana, etc work great, and look great.

If you pad is caked you will notice a decrease in cut as the product will inhibit the pad's ability to do correction/leveling.

It may beneficial to prime the pads lightly before using them and to clean them between panels. Compressed air works the best for me as it still leave the pad primed but removes caked polish, paint residual, etc.

Nicely done!

I'm surprised someone said that as 3000 grit marks should easily be removed by most compounds without a problem. Although there are quicker ways (wool, microfiber pads, etc) a 4" pad should have no problem like you demonstrated.

This is Adam's forums, where you support and promote Adam's.

All of the other detailing forums [non-brand specific] are not going to show Adam's hardly any love because the members there are professionals or hobbyists that choose to use professional grade products that are cheaper and work faster [again, Adam's said they released products that are easy for novice detailers and made in the USA, which a lot of professional grade products are neither]. Autoscrub and Nanoprep towels are an example too, there are patented and would have to be rebranded to be sold by Adam's, which isn't their thing.

Although censorship will kill a company/forum, joining this forum is voluntary and your choice. However, if it is constructive criticism, it will feel like over-censorship as the intent is constructive and not malicious.

Hmm. Wonder why this process works. What's the science?

 

 

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The science behind "spit shinning" is similar, which utilizes chilled water or a quick detailer (a quick detailer without solvent action or cleaning ability) in some instances. The theory behind spit shinning is to apply a coat of wax, and then mist ice cold distilled water on the surface and re-wax the panel. The ice water neutralizes the solvents and prevents the wax from smearing or bonding through the previous layer, instead, bonding on top of it, and thus creating an secondary layer.

However, I have heard of just misting ice cold water to remove any hazing and to ensure the wax is completely removed without interfering with the actual bonding (like a Detail Spray might do]. I don't know if that adds anything though.

And most popular sealants on the market advise prolonged curing periods without contact with moisture, so this technique is probably just limited to Carnauba waxes.

Will this work for my hemi ram?

It will work fine, the mounting is different for the v6 and v8 though. If you could fabricate a bracket or find a hole then you can make it work.

I used the v6 bracket like Matt has to mount a Catch Can to my Avenger, I just had to find a spot

Look into the Canon SX line, either the 130 or 150 for a smaller camera or the sx20is to sx40is for a superzoom model.

He doesn't have one

 

Sam, check for a vendor or user around you who might be able to help. Would probably need a polisher to fix

Sorry, I was agreeing with a post before mine about polishing [by hand]. I don't feel the residue is an issue, but fading, marring, etc that is around the emblems but not under them.

Just polish the panel to blend it in

That would be great! Calibrate the dimensions to optimize the flow through the Firemans Nozzle.

Powerwasher

And a waterless wash.

Same with Wolfs Deironizer Gel, Phil at DD sells it as well. Although that's made in Hungary o.0

The sulfuric base is what gives it that smell.. Sorry but anyone that makes one its going to smell that bad..

Yeah, I know, but the mint scent with the gel I have leaves a funky smell, haha.

which iron product do you use?

Since Adam's doesn't have a product that is comparable, you can use Iron-X, Iron Cut, Wolfs Decon Gel, or a full effect wheel cleaner that does similar [i can't say the brand as Adam's does have a wheel cleaner].

Don't be surprised to see something from Adams in the future... When they're able to come up with something that blows the competition away, you'll see it. Not until then.

 

Chris

That's the problem, all the other companies have cleaners that already blow traditional wheel cleaners away, but Adam's always has the easiest ones, so I will be excited to try theirs out if they delve into the realm of decontamination sprays.

This is why Adam's needs an Iron remover/decontamination spray. And one that smells much better than the other options.

Well darn, if you're worried some products are too old, ship them to me...

Sorry to hear about that, I forget about that too. All my products are kept between 68 and 72 degrees but it is still a good idea to shake them fairly often if they aren't being used. Dated product would be awesome, but in my case I would date the OEM gallon/bulk containers as my smaller bottles get used up fairly quick.

Looks great!

I still say you need to make one with a bend

Everyone who has ordered these, you'll love the small one for honeycomb, metal, patterned grills and getting between tight spaces.

It's hard to predict or guess a flash point as a polish will flash differently depending on paint temperature, humidity, pad used, pressure, arm speed, etc.

But as others have said, you will see the polish turning from opaque to transparent with every pass. Don't work it past it's flash point as the oils that have "flashed" provided lubrication. Stop before you go to long and if you have to, mist a small amount of DI water or DS to extend the life of the polish.

You should center that avenger logo.

^^fixed

Removing all the badging makes the rear look too plain Jane for my tastes, especially with the big wide a** of the Taurus. But whatever you like best on your vehicle is fine with me.

I would remove it before centering it, but I don't want it to be plain either. I left it so I could make the decision later, although it has been that way since last sumer...

Hmmm, decisions. I may remove it when I polish and coat my vehicle and then decide if I want to reattach them somewhere.

Here are a couple pictures I took today.

From left to right, the first quarter is the control with no paint protection, the next quarter is a sealant, the third quarter is a sealant based All-in-one, and on the last quarter is a wax. They all attract dust about equally, but I have not washed my vehicle since applying the LSP's [on Sunday], so after a wash tonight I will see if they still have the same dust-attracting properties.

I'll have to take a picture of my car with the dust collecting on it, it really is stunning how it attracts to the waxed sealed areas.

IPA is available all over the place, and it is effective even at 15% dilution, so purchasing 50%, 70%, or 90% is great because you can further dilute it.

I LOVE IT!!!

 

Pro-line:

SMAT Polishes

More aggressive pads

Rotary Polishers

 

What else?

Microfiber pads!

That's all.