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ACRCAR

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Posts posted by ACRCAR

  1. Thanks for the advice. I think I will throw on a coat using the dry method since the car is already impeccably clean from the recent detail. Not worried about using extra product as I have plenty and could always order more. Might try some BG on top of the HGG just cause I like detailing and I would love some extra pop. 

     

    Thanks for for the tips!

  2. I just did an impeccable job doing a very nice job with Liquid Paint Sealant on my Gen V Viper. I washed and clayed the vehicle =, then hit it with LPS.  Would it be beneficial to go over the LPS with H2O Guard and Gloss, or is that over kill?  Car is white with Blue stripes (GTS-R) and looks unbelievably clean with just the LPS applied.  I was considering doing the dry method with a damp towel for some extra shine.  Any thoughts?

  3. Ok so I just finished with a looong day of detailing. So far I did the following:

     

    Washed, Clayed, Polished (x2), VRT'd trim & LPS. Letting the car cure until tomorrow. My question is should I now go for Glaze and follow that up with a coat of Americana, or is the Americana a waste of time at this point?

  4. No need to go to the "stealership" to buy cleaning products.  Get yourself some RaggTopp cleaner and spray protectant.  You can get both items in a kit.  I use it (and sell it) for all of my customer cars as well for both my 996 Cabrio and 968 Cabrio.  Give me a ring or PM if you have questions on the top.

     

    Black is tough......once you get it polished and sealed, touch it as little as possible.  For the "best" shine, I like two coats of LPS as a base, then you can simply maintain with HGG and every so often, hit it with a coat of wax or glaze as a top coat.  But again, be careful how much you're rubbing on it.  Having a couple of layers on there will help reduce swirls but not prevent them completely.  It's black......

    I already cleaned and treated the top with RaggTopp cleaner and protectant.  I would never put VRT on there.  The rest of the car has been done.  Now I just need to focus on the paint. 

     

    Thanks for the tips and suggestions everyone.

  5. After I polish, do I remove the polish prior to laying down the paint sealant?  Do I remove the paint sealant before laying down the Glaze? Does everything get layered on top of everything else, or is it most beneficial to remove at certain stages and then carry on with the next product(s)?

  6. The H2O Guard & Gloss is a much easier application on the wheels I find.  Spray on and wipe off with the wet towel, then buff dry.  It has to be one of the fastest ways to seal your wheels.  I've grown to prefer it over the quick sealant for wheels since you can see exactly where you've touched and haven't, and it seems to hold up a little better for me.  Your mileage may vary.

     

    There isn't really a reason to layer in more products.  And none come to mind.  The sealant provides long lasting protection.  The glaze is a great appearance enhancing product.  And it's all locked in with two layers of wax (Patriot is my go to for my garage queen, Americana for all others but I haven't tried the new Americana yet).  If you layer too many products in, you run the risk of getting a haze in your finish.  Sometimes less really is more. 

    Good point.  I think I'll stick with the recipe laid out above and try to H2O G&G on the wheels.

     

    Thanks again!

  7. Here's my take...

     

    -Strip wash

    -Clay

    -Polish (least aggressive to most depending on the paint)

    -Glaze (or Sealant first)

    -Sealant (or Glaze second)

    -Two thin coats of wax

    -VRT all the trim and top...or you can go wild and ceramic coat the trim

    -Metal polish the exhaust tips

    -H2O Guard & Gloss the wheels & calipers

    -Tire shine

    -Glass cleaner

    -Glass sealant

     

    Put sunglasses on and admire your work.

    I was actually thinking of doing exactly what you just stated except for the H2O Guard & Gloss on the wheels and calipers.  Didn't even think of using that on there.  I typically use the Quick Sealant on the rims.  Seems to work really well.

     

    Are there any other products I can layer in there after the polish, sealant, glaze and during the waxing phase?

     

    Thank you for the tip!

  8. Like the title states, I am looking for the BEST Adams recipe for black paint.  Looking to do a full detail on my 997.1 and am wondering what the best combo would be.  Going to start with a strip wash, and I am going to clay the car.  Thereafter, I would like to give it the ultimate shine.

     

    Any suggestions?  I want to go full tilt on this thing.  I would like to layer as many products as much as possible to get the greatest, wettest shine possible.

    Here is the actual car.

    post-11908-0-61617800-1478184675_thumb.jpg

  9. Like the title states, I am looking for the BEST Adams recipe for black paint.  Looking to do a full detail on my 997.1 and am wondering what the best combo would be.  Going to start with a strip wash, and I am going to clay the car.  Thereafter, I would like to give it the ultimate shine.

     

    Any suggestions?  I want to go full tilt on this thing.  I would like to layer as many products as much as possible to get the greatest, wettest shine possible.

  10. Been doing a lot of reading on this topic and it appears that some people are using the All Purpose Cleaner to do the job while others are using the Microfiber Revitalizer.  My question is should you pretreat with the All Purpose Cleaner and then wash with the Microfiber Revitalizer adding it to the washing machine instead of liquid detergent, or should the above be done and add the Microfiber Revitalizer to the liquid detergent for better results.

     

    There are so many methods for doing this, I just want to see if others have tried this way and what the results were. 

     

    Also, I have read quite a few posts that say DON'T put the towels in the dryer and then I also read quite a few posts that say to put them in the dryer on low heat.  Which is better?  Are the microfiber pads ok to throw in the dryer as well?

     

    I was thinking of doing the following:

     

    - Pre Treat dirty towels and microfiber pads with All Purpose Cleaner and let them soak in a 5 gallon bucket with warm water over night

     

    - Take towels and pads out and spray down with Microfiber Revitalizer before placing them in the washing machine along with the pads.

     

    - Run the washing machine with Micorfiber Revitalizer and liquid detergent (ALL Free) along with a half cup of white distilled vinegar.

     

    - Keep fingers crossed.

     

    Any thoughts?

  11. I'm starting to dislike Adam's.  Not because their products don't perform well...actually quite the opposite.  Their products perform so well, that I am now officially addicted to cleaning my cars and have been for quite some time now.  I have been spending quite a bit of time in the garage experimenting with different procedures and the like.  I love seeing which products interact the best and coming up with different combos for different cars and different stages of cleanliness.  To my surprise, I guess this has been taking time away from other obligations a married man with a family may have.  Who knew this was going to become such a problem?  So please let my comments here serve as a warning to all.  Be careful if you choose to use these products as you WILL become addicted.  I think I spent more in car cleaning products over the last 12 months than I have in the last 25 years combined.  Can't wait to get home tonight so I can add a coat of buttery wax on my car to top off and finish my special patented (not really) 10 step program for a better than new shine like a star finish.

     

    Thanks a lot Adam's!!!!!  (Add in angry tone here).

  12. Unless you have like 20 clay bars lying around that you are just itching to get rid of, no way in the world would I attempt to clay a car that wasn't washed / cleaned first.  As the others have already said, at least go to the car wash and spray it down.  Not ideal, but better than nothing.  If that is also not an option, the other suggestions were pretty good as well.

     

    Good luck.

  13. Not sure if it in fact needs more passes, but I can tell you that the passes that were made were made with extreme care.  The paint on these cars is notoriously bad, but mine actually looks great.  I try to keep it as slick as possible so as to try to preserve it as best as I can.  I probably go through a bottle of detail spray every 2 - 3 weeks on this car as I spray it down often just to keep the dust at bay and keep it shiny. 

  14. No thanks.  I enjoy doing it myself and I know its done right.  I have seen some of the washes dealers offer and for the most part, they typically look like an old rag was used with dirty water from  a gritty bucket without soap and just sloshed around making an even bigger mess and damaging your paint in the process.

     

    No thanks. They can keep their gritty, sandy, sloshy, soapless, scratch inducing, damage causing car washes to themselves.

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