StubStang

I have plenty of the old cans too!

1 hour ago, mc2hill said:

Cool Andrew!  I just finished my final few ounces of GWC about a month ago.

I knew someone out there still had it!! LOL

Evening All,

I was doing some prep for the winter and while rummaging around the garage I happened to find this old gallon of Green Wheel Cleaner. At the time, it was Adam's new hybrid formula for deep wheel cleaner made to impact the environment less while having a less potent smell. Purchased in 2015 and she still looks pretty darn good!

18 hours ago, SSilver07 said:

I switched to the ECO instead. I have a set of powder coated wheels and a set of gloss black wheels. The deep wheel cleaner left a little bit of staining on the gloss black wheels. I might dilute the whole gallon. 

Yeah this was what I was afraid of, thank you for the warning!

23 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

You’re treating the wheels like wheels. They collect contamination.  A combination of brakes and heat make a high contamination environment.

 

You typically don’t clay a wheel. Iron decontamination is the big thing. Then seal/coat them. 

 

Wheels pose many challenges. 

*Painted wheels pose many challenges* lol.

I checked the ratio chart, I'll most likely do the 1:1 dilution ratio or try out the iron decon, either seem like they won't damage the paint.

4 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

It depends on how contaminated your paint is. If you think it’s light, try to cut it. Worst case is it takes a couple of applications. The better the iron decon is, the easier the clay is. 

In short I have to treat the rims like the car paint? Because thats a pain in the theoretical buns. 

6 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Keep in mind that the older wheel cleaner used to be diluted for paint. The newer product is generally used full strength. If it’s not so contaminated, cutting it should work fine though. 

i do have the newer version of it, but should i still be cautious about it?

Hi all, 

I recently sold the Mustang and picked up a 2017 GTI. The GTI comes with painted rims and using car shampoo is a pain and doesn't necessarily clean the wheels deep enough. I have a tn of deep wheel cleaner at my expense. What is the ratio I should use to dilute the deep wheel cleaner so I won't hurt the paint on the rims?

Thanks!

As a Mustang owner, I've learned a couple of things.

One: The interiors produced before 2015 were total garbage. The plastic is tacky, the cloth rips and other components tend to wear down very easily. HOWEVER, I do find that the leather conditioner does a surprising wonder on the faux leather and plastic material. Creates a clean look!

Two: If you have expectations of having a car without issues (in terms of Ford products), get rid of them. Ive had one hood with rust issues and another one thats starting the process all over again. Also having some clear coat issues on other areas even though they've been protected and such. 

However, even though theres some issues, I still love the car to death!

To answer your question of cleaning your interior (keep in mind that I do NOT have a premium interior package), I use waterless wash to get any dirt/ residue off of the plastic and faux plastic, wipe to dry etc. When applying the conditioner, I use very small amounts and spread the conditioner on the red application pad with my hand (using gloves). This would properly spread the conditioner on the surface in which you would like it to be applied to. It would also get rid of your smudge issue. In terms of amount used per panel, my best example would be the size of a nickel for the first half of the door that includes plastic and faux leather. I'd suggest more for the other parts, should come out ok after!

Hope this helps!
 

This will have to wait: new tires need to be purchased.

Sweet, loving the answers guys! Thanks!!

Andrew,

 

It really comes down to how bad the scratches and swirls are, and how much money you will end up spending on a machine.

 

The Cycle and Rupes 15 are both great, well balanced, and correct the majority of defects, although they may require additional passes with the various pads and polishes.

 

The Flex will correct more defects more quickly, but has a higher learning curve to use compared to the others.

 

The Adam's chart, and videos show all of the "pros & cons" of each machine, and it truly does come down to your own unique needs and budget.

 

By the way, I have a Flex, Cyclo, and Rupes Mini, and use them all at various times. For me, the Cyclo finishes the best on most vehicles, the Flex repairs the quickest, and the Mini is used for small specific areas only.

 

Hope this helps.

It did! the car hasn't had swirl removal in a while but the paint and clear coat are still in pretty good shape. I won't mind doing various passes, I just don't wanna mess up the paint!

Since you read the charts,

 

I started with the PC but outskilled it fairly quick and I turned it into a 4" inch small area polisher.

 

I now have the Flex 3401 which I really like, fast and powerful but you have to be a bit more careful with it and definitely have to hang on to it.

 

I tried the cyclo and was amazed on how smooth it is, next to no vibration, I could do a panel all day without getting tired.

 

Comes down to what you are comfortable with, I chose the PC at first because it is impossible to do damage to your car with it even if you try. I didn't have much knowledge of the polishers so I felt safet that way.

I like the idea of going the safe route, especially if it still offers positive results!

There is a great chart on Adam's website, " Choosing a Machine" plus the videos are great at explaining and introducing the machines. I have an old PC, which is a good intro DA, at a lower cost. Also have a Cyclo, which I love as it does a great job, and doesn't vibrate me to death, like the PC does. Any of the machines Adam's sells will do a great job.

I read the chart! I wanna hear what people think about different machines and then ultimately make a decision 

Oh my friend, this is gonna be a while...

 

I suggest watching this playlist to get most of the machines down. They don't talk about the Rupes lineup but they have individual video about each one on Adam's channel on Youtube.

 

 

Each polisher has its own pros and cons and it also depends what you want to do with it. Correct 1 car a year or 10? And so on, tons of options for different budgets

 

As far as what you need, find the polisher first then buy the kit that comes with it. The basic products would be: Detail Spray, Clay Bar, paint correcting, paint finishing and paint sealant along with at least 2 single soft towels or better

I have the detail spray, clay bar, soft towels and paint sealant .I've been using these products for the past two years (hand applied the paint sealant)

I read the chart on the adams website but I wanted peoples opinions, what they liked more and so on!

Hey guys, 

Im looking to take my next step in the process of detailing. What my best option for a polisher, and what will I need for this process?

I've been married long enough to know better than to ask what happened.  

 

I agree with the foaming cleaner method.  Might take several attempts, but you'd need a chemical strong enough to break down bat guano, yet delicate enough to not damage the cloth.

Im sorry, did you just say BAT GUANO????

LOVE the persistent shopping cart. 

Goodbye paper lists!!!

Wasn't sure if you already had some RP.  I figured if you had some you could try it.

 

I would say a car with a lot of spots from repeated sprinklering will most likely require machine polishing.  Do you have a polisher?

No, unfortunately my friend who has one was not available to help with this detail today. He owns a polisher.

Try some RP.

 

If that does not work, then you will probably have to machine polish them with PCP.

Noted. Thanks for the input!

Looks like they're gonna have to wait on getting the water spots removed. Ordering RP now!

Hey all, 

Currently washing/ detailing a family members car. The car sits next to a sprinkler with hard, untreated water every day so now the drivers side has a trillion spots. Ive tried clay bar, its not very effective. 

Any ideas to speed up the process??

We will certainly have those nozzles available for purchase, as customers have damaged theirs, driven over them, etc, or just want extras.  I will say that the fan setting on this nozzle is not super wonderful amazing....but good.

 

As a standalone sprayer, I'd give this one a 7/10.   Soon, there will be a SUPER nice nozzle, but it will be expensive.

 

Thanks, and stay tuned!

Meh, fan setting...I dig the attachment, still awaiting their availability!!!

better to apply in sunlight or in the shade? should I also allow drying time? Im finding that its sort of hard to take off after drying, maybe Im using too much

Well Jim, I hope you LOVE it, and if not, I'd like to hear about it.  Keep me posted, and with a 1K/miles per week, we'll know quick!!

Still managing to get streaks on the inside part of the windshield. Everything on it just seems hard to take off/ has an oily feel to it.

Hi everyone.

 

I'm a weekend warrior who likes to keep his cars clean. Looking forward spending some time over here learning and sharing. I am very familiar with detailing however Adams products are something new to me. Just watched an Adams daily driver wash video on another site and thought I stop over.

 

So far I've learned to polish I have also learned that black is not a color it's a full time job. I have learned to apply,coatings and love the ease of maintenance.

Glad to see some native islanders on here. Welcome!

 

Have you ever wanted to work along side the Adam's team? Do you have an outgoing personality and love talking detailing? We need assistance working an upcoming event in the Columbus, OH area and would love it if one of our customers was there to fill the role.

 

If you're in the area, meet the criteria below, and want to make some cash/product credit while you hang out with the man behind the brand and a few members of our team then send us an email:

 

Orders@AdamsPolishes.com

 

• Volunteers must be available to work July 9th thru the 12th (Thursday thru Sunday).
• Working a show is a lot of exercise! Volunteers should be in good physical shape and able to spend the days on your feet. No heavy lifting required.
• Must be fairly familiar with the Adam's product line and able to make recommendations and give input to other customers visiting the booth.
• Outgoing, upbeat, and energetic! Car shows are fun so we want to work with fun people!
• You'll be compensated with cash and product credit for your time.

 

Had I known about this, i would've raised a hand in an instant.....smh....