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mc2hill last won the day on April 27

mc2hill had the most liked content!


About mc2hill

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    Master AF Detailer
  • Birthday 01/01/1961

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    former Basketball dad
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    Frontier Crew Cab - Super Black
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  1. For a regular 2 bucket wash or anytime I am 'resetting' the wheels and tires I wash them first. If I am doing a Rinseless wash, I will use the leftover wash water with a Grit Guard Washboard and some older wheel brushes to clean the wheels, and sometimes a stiffer wheel brush to clean the tires.
  2. Welcome to Adam's Forums! And we are a visual bunch, so please post some pics when the car arrives! And if possible, request the dealer not touch the car exterior. You are better off giving it's first cleaning, since you care more about how it looks.
  3. Nice color! I have been researching at these lately - like the size and look.
  4. Using Wheel & Tire cleaner should be fine, but if you washing them often, shampoo should be enough to get them clean. I keep some Car Wash Shampoo pre-mixed in a foaming sprayer and use that to clean my wheels. Or even try cleaning with Graphene Shampoo to add a little protection with each wash.
  5. You can always 'reactivate' the soap. When I wash with soap (vs. Rinseless wash) I wash the entire vehicle using the 2 bucket method, then reload the mitt, and go over the about 1/2 the car with the soapy mitt, then reload it and do the remaining parts. Then do a pool (or flood) rinse that removes most of the water. Finally I spritz each section with DS and dry.
  6. I was noticing scratches in the piano black interior finishes (from the other guys work, not mine) on the cars I was detailing for customers, so when we got a car with that finish I picked up some horsehair dust brushes. Now I vacuum those areas without worry.
  7. First off, Welcome Michael! Not sure what is causing the rainbow on the headlights, but a mild polish should remove it. I have not used the Graphene Spray, but I know that coatings do not adhere well to headlights that have not had the factory clear removed.
  8. HA! Winter washing for me means putting on a long sleeved shirt, and maybe socks!
  9. Welcome to Adam's Forums! You plan looks good, but I agree with Dan, save Step 7 & 8 until the next wash. I love H20 G&G, and use it every few months as part of a rinseless wash.
  10. You would need to machine polish out the scratch, and that should remove the coating in that area. Once it scratch is gone, prep the affected area and reapply the coating.
  11. Larry at Ammo has some very good information on his site. The Adam's products are different from the Meguair's polishes, and should be easier to work with. The M#05 products are older 'technology', but many like them. The Adam's polishes should dust less, correct just as fast, and be easier for someone new machine polishing to use.
  12. @aurik I hadn't thought about it before, but Strip Wash should work fine as a clay lube. You mainly are looking for some lubrication. With our humidity I can't usually use the soap (it dries up to fast), so I use diluted Rinseless Wash as a clay lube.
  13. Welcome Ron! Glad the folks got you sorted.
  14. @UTVol I am going in a different direction. I would say correct the whole car, then once it is all done wash and clean with Surface Prep, and apply the coating all at one time. That way there is only one coating applicator to use and one towel that is used to wipe the coating. If you HAVE to apply protection, then what ever wax you have on hand or available locally with be fine until you have it all corrected. The Surface Prep should remove the temporary wax.
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