mc2hill

I was noticing scratches in the piano black interior finishes (from the other guys work, not mine) on the cars I was detailing for customers, so when we got a car with that finish I picked up some horsehair dust brushes. Now I vacuum those areas without worry.

First off, Welcome Michael! Not sure what is causing the rainbow on the headlights, but a mild polish should remove it. I have not used the Graphene Spray, but I know that coatings do not adhere well to headlights that have not had the factory clear removed.

HA! Winter washing for me means putting on a long sleeved shirt, and maybe socks!

Welcome to Adam's Forums! You plan looks good, but I agree with Dan, save Step 7 & 8 until the next wash. I love H20 G&G, and use it every few months as part of a rinseless wash.

You would need to machine polish out the scratch, and that should remove the coating in that area. Once it scratch is gone, prep the affected area and reapply the coating.

Larry at Ammo has some very good information on his site. The Adam's products are different from the Meguair's polishes, and should be easier to work with. The M#05 products are older 'technology', but many like them. The Adam's polishes should dust less, correct just as fast, and be easier for someone new machine polishing to use.

Welcome Sven!

@aurik I hadn't thought about it before, but Strip Wash should work fine as a clay lube. You mainly are looking for some lubrication. With our humidity I can't usually use the soap (it dries up to fast), so I use diluted Rinseless Wash as a clay lube.

Welcome Ron! Glad the folks got you sorted.

@UTVol I am going in a different direction. I would say correct the whole car, then once it is all done wash and clean with Surface Prep, and apply the coating all at one time. That way there is only one coating applicator to use and one towel that is used to wipe the coating. If you HAVE to apply protection, then what ever wax you have on hand or available locally with be fine until you have it all corrected. The Surface Prep should remove the temporary wax.

That should be 'do-able' - there is a company that make tools to make your own smaller pads (but they are very expensive). A marker and some good scissors should do the trick.

Nice work on an old sweetie Kurt! If it is the original paint, you may want to search 'mike phillips antique single stage paint'. He uses products and techniques that add some oils back into the paint. It is labor intensive, but the results are amazing.

Hey Nick, for the interior Adam's Interior Detailer always works for me. Even when doing client cars that have not been maintained it works great on leather and around the steering wheel & stalks. If the polishes you have are a few years old, you may want to look at something like the One Step Polish to remove the swirls.

This may require a few treatments of VRT to get look you want. Sometimes the plastic will dry out, and soak up VRT. You could also try Black Trim Restorer.

@TR6speed Hey Jack, not to be mean, but this is why I have stayed with Paint Sealant + H2O Guard & Gloss on my cars. PS goes on easy, and I can quickly add protection with G&G as part of a Rinseless wash. I think it has been over a year since I put the PS down on the Accord, but the G&G keeps it protected until I reapply the PS once our heat is gone. I did put a coating on my son's car when he was away at school, and I only saw the car a few times a year. A strip wash when he was home got it looking great again.