DRossow

Good to know, thanks for the info. I love using this stuff not only for the shine and protection, but it's make drying a black vehicle in the middle of summer a breeze.

Just a thought I had about H2O G&G, I love this product for its quick sealing properties, and water shedding property.

Question #1: Is it okay to use on a weekly basis, without the fear of product build up?

My truck is a daily driver, sits outside a chemical plant all day with only God knows what landing on it, and is subject to the excessive southeast Texas heat during the summer months (summer months last year round).

Question #2: Would a product even be possible to have the water repellent property of the H20 G&G without the sealing property?

I would love to see something that could be used as a stand alone drying aid, without the worries of buildup. It has by far cut down my drying time, and that says a lot since I own the master blaster.

Was browsing the grit guard website the other day and it appears that they are offering a new "wash board" attachment. I know I've seen post on hear about them in the past, just wonder what the current thoughts are.

This gallon of detail spray is probably around 2 years old, so I'm guessing it's going bad.

My detailing supplies are currently stored in my garage, temperatures can easily reach 80 F during the summer months.

As far as appearance, it's still appears the same as it does when new.

I have recently started to notice that my detail spray no longer has the great scent we have all grown to love, but instead it has started to smell funky. It reminds me of rotting fruit, does detail spray go bad after a certain period of time?

I would look into the kits offered, as they offer great starting kits. Either the daily driver kit or the essentials kit would be great to maintain your jeep. If you plan on polishing then more items will be needed.

Will definitely be picking one of the work platforms up, been looking at them for a little bit, and for under $20 bucks it's hard to beat.

Thanks everyone, I will keep all recommendations in mind. Next time I will try to use the microfiber applicator instead of the foam block, to prevent over saturation of the foam block. I usually use H2O G&G but skipped it this time in order to do some light polishing on a few areas.

SVRT is water resistant, not water proof.

 

It will run if rained on, Hit the paint with a shot of DS and the streaks will come right off.

Would in and out spray be a better option?

Applied Super VRT sparingly yesterday, let it set for several hours while I worked on other parts of the truck. I went back over the trim with a utility towel to remove any left over product. Everything seemed dry at the end of the day, this morning after a rain storm, I go out to my truck to this. What is causing this?

I'm close to the Houston area, and would definitely be interested.  I'm sure I could get a couple guys in the local Ford Raptor group to join, seeing as most of them are also shine junkies.

Daniel the Cyclo will be slower than the Flex at correcting a finish, but I wouldn't consider it inferior.  This is my take on each machine.

Cyclo = great all around machine, can cover large areas (2) 4" pads and also works well in smaller areas (machine turned so the pads follow one another in a straight line).

Flex = this is a correcting beast, its forced rotation is almost impossible to stop.  In my experience with this machine it can be slightly harder to control in certain situations.  I use this machine for major corrections only. *I personally own this machine and have used it.

Rupes Mini = great for small areas, I use it to trim around door handles, moldings, vents, etc.  Very smooth operation.  This polisher is not a stand alone machine for polishing an entire car. *I personally own this machine and have used it.

Rupes 15 and 21 = Both are great at correcting the only difference is pad size and orbit. I have the Rupes 15, I use this machine when major correction is not needed, for spreading sealant, etc. *I personally own this machine and have used it.

With that being said I have different machines for different purposes, I have owned 2 PortaCable machines, they aren't bad but I decided a while back to stop buying tools multiple times (both portacables had problems).

If you are looking for a single polisher to due, entire vehicles I would recommend the Cyclo.

In the last year or so I have only been able to kill one Tolco sprayer (same as the reds) and it wasn't anything from Adam's that killed it.

Good information to know, since it was a small fortune to upgrade all the spray bottles.

I have also upgraded all my spray bottles to the premium dilution bottles listed above, and have not had a issue in the couple months since the upgrade.  Only time will tell how these new bottles hold up.

I will be giving this bottle of polish another try this weekend, weather permitting.  The more I think of it though I still can't pin point what happened during this particular polishing session.  Just to comment on some of the recommendations and comments listed above, after my initial 4 or 5 dime sized dots to prime the pad along with the initial shot of detail spray, I stopped adding product thinking that I had placed too much on the pad to start and kept reactivating with detail spray.  I was only working on a section equal to about a quarter of an entire hood.  I brushed the micro fiber pad out with the conditioning brush what felt like every minute, as soon as the polish hazed and basically seem to dry it would start causing the nap of the pad to go flat.  

I also tried the same process with a orange foam pad using 3 smaller dots of polish, and the same results, the polish would haze up and appear to dry like you would expect from a wax.

I will be giving this another shot this weekend, and have another bottle of correcting polish and finishing polish on its way just to compare, along with a new rupes 15 cant wait to try that polisher out.

Thanks for the replies, I will try all recommendations when I get home.

Could it be possible that since the paint correcting polish had set for approx. 6 months since it's last use that the product may have separated and was not mixed thoroughly enough, even though I always shake the bottle before and during the correcting process.

It may be parts of all, older product,stored inside a Texas garage for 2-3 years (is the garage air conditioned?). Also even though it was at 9 pm low 80's will make it more difficult especially for correcting, if the Correction Polish was drying right awayand you had severe dusting I'd say the panel never cooled off from the daylight hours. I know for me when you have heat and humidity it makes for a long day if I have to polish

The panel had completely cooled and was cool to the touch, this was performed several hours after the sun went down and the truck had been washed.  The humidity could have played a role in it drying so fast maybe, I've never had this happen.

I apologize for the trouble with the polish and we will get this resolved for you.  I have some questions to try and figure out what happened. 

 

Do you have any pictures of the truck?

Just to be sure, were you using Paint Correcting Polish?

Was the paint hot to the touch?  (Sometimes with really oxidized paint, it will soak up and dry out the polish quickly not allowing it to have a decent open time, especially if it's hot)

What pad were you using and did you lubricate it with Detail Spray?  

What speed setting was the Flex set to? 

How much polish did you apply for an area the size of a fender?

I do not have any pictures of the truck it was late at night and hard to capture anything with a camera.

I was using Paint Correcting Polish (double and triple checked the bottle to make sure).

The paint was not hot, it was in the lower to mid 80's that night, but the truck had been washed previously that night and the paint was cool.

I was using a orange microfiber pad.

Speed setting 6 with the Flex and speed setting 6 on the Rupes 75 mini.

With the Flex I was using 4 or 5 dime sized drops and the Rupes was using maybe 3 small drops.

Alright I will attempt to cover all aspects concerning the recent failure I experienced with my current bottle of paint correcting polish.  First a little on my background, I am NOT a professional by any means, though I have been polishing and correcting my own vehicles for 10+ years and utilizing Adam's products for the last 2 years or so.  About a month ago (sometime around mid July or so) a good friend of mine came to me with her 2009 Chevy Silverado with  severely damaged paint (honestly I have never seen paint look this bad). She wanted her paint corrected, so I did a test section on the passenger side fender with great results, I actually felt bad after the test section was done because the difference stood out.  Then she decided to go ahead and start the rest of the truck, performed a two bucket wash, dried, and clayed the hood and fenders, we only had enough time to perform the correct in steps. The issue/failure was as soon as the paint correcting polish was applied to the paint and spread around with both my flex and rupes mini it seemed to haze like a wax almost immediately.  I had zero working time with the polish as soon as it hit the truck it would haze and as I continued to work the polish it would produce a crazy amount of dusting.  I have used this same polish on my 2013 and 2014 Ford Raptor with no issue (this was several months ago).  I have recently placed another order for paint correcting and finishing polish.  Looking for any input to what could have caused this failure.

*Temperature that night was probably in the low 80's (I live in the Gulf Coast area of Texas).

*This correction was being done at approximately 9:00 PM so no direct sunlight.

*My products are all stored in the garage in a storage cabinet

*The product was some of the first I have purchased so it may have been around 2 years old 3 years tops.

*Between July and August we did have some soaring temperatures in excess of 100+ degrees.

Let me know ya'lls (yes that is a word) thoughts on what could have happened.