Erictski

Nope

Any interest?

i will separate polisher from pads if asked. 

Anyone need a good deal on a polisher?

Bumping this up as I posted it late last night and not many may have seen it.

I am open to negotiations on the price if it is reasonable.

over $100 worth of pads here.

Polisher sold.

Pads Sold.

Lot of Geiots Boss Pads

pads are new except 1 orange cutting pad used for 1 panel

6 orange cutting

6 yellow polishing 

1 red sealant/wax pad

inner flex pad

So really this spray coating could be an all in one exterior protectant?  Use it on Rubber seals, plastic trim, windows, headlights, and Paint?

Could this really replace sealant and VRT or trim coating (although I know the Trim Coating would last longer).

Use the Spray Ceramic as we would have previously used H20GG but with a dry application maybe 4 times per year?

pm sent

Thanks. Was hoping it would act similar to the paint boost does on the paint coating. Maybe the paint boost would work well over a glass coating?

Clay mitt alternative

Adam's doesn't make a glass coating. It is McKees37 glass coating. Description says it's a nano ceramic coating

I know glass boost is designed to work with Adam's GLass Sealant, but how would it work with a coated windshield?

^{dilute it 1:1 or even 2:1 (water to cleaner) for your car/truck if you don't have huge amounts of brake dust.  it still works great diluted and saves some money and product.}

I agree...my truck has similar hood lines.

Thanks Nathan.

Not a lot of discussion on this product.

Looking for someone in the know to give the major improvements over the outgoing formula.

Still awaiting the new video on the sales site.

Anyone gotten it and used it yet?

Is there a time which we shouldn't be getting the car wet after sealant application? I know allot of sealant require 12-24 hours to not get the car wet after application

Thanks dan. Clears it up a bit. But no issues with the paint sealant and the sk15. Good to know

If you use the Adam's Swirl Killer Mini for wax or sealant application, the lowest speed setting of 1 is 2,500 OPM vs 2,000 OPM of the regular Swirl Killer, so it will oscillate a bit faster even at the lowest setting - it's manageable but like Gary said, it may not work best for you in this particular application. The Swirl Killer Mini is designed as more of a spot correction machine for imperfections in tight areas - wait until you see some of the correction work it's done on this Silverado I'm working on at my house now! I'll be posting a write-up hopefully soon when the truck is complete.

 

Also, if you use the Swirl Killer Mini for wax or sealant application, I would recommend doing one panel at a time, with no downward pressure on the paint.

Yes the Swirl Killer is absolutely fine to use for applying our Paint Sealant with our 6" Gray Foam Pad. Run it at around speed 2 and apply it thin and even and you'll be good to go!

These two statements conflict a bit maybe you could clarify. 

You said the SK is slower on speed 1 than the SK mini, but here you tell me to use setting 2 on the SK for sealant.  wouldn't speed 1 on the Mini be slower or equal to that of the SK on setting TWO? 

I am specifically talking sealants and not waxes as I don't use paste waxes, just adams sealant and another sealant that recommends not using a long throw machine to apply.

thanks for any clarification you give.

Yeah that's what I did with my PC until the Mini came out.

Is there an advantage to the sk mini with a 3"

Backplate vs a pc 7424 Xp with a 3" backplate?

Thanks.

Part two of my question would be; is Adam's paint sealant approved for use with the large swirl killer? I ask because my current sealant of choice is for 8mn da only or hand application.

Curious if the sk mini could tackle a whole vehicle for wax or sealant application? I know it isn't meant for whole car correction, but seeing as how spreading wax and sealant is a quicker less taxing job was wondering if it would be possible.

You can still polish single stage paint, it's just much softer and usually uses less aggressive technique to do so.  Starting with the least aggressive methods is usually the preferred system anyway.  I'd start with a fine polish and see if that clears it up enough to your liking.  Just know that you will see paint transfer to the pads since there's no independent clear coat layer.

will this paint transfer come out of your pads so you can use them for different vehicles? or are you basically stuck using those pads only for that vehicle once you use them.

I too have a super white Toyota I need to polish as well as a black Toyota.  so just wondering if I need separate pads for both vehicles.

just curious how many pads (both correcting and finishing) people typically use for a full car correction.

In a perfect world you should only have to correct the paint once. Correct washing techniques will ensure swirl-free paint. However, we do not live in a perfect world and even though we try our best we still get some damage.

agreed...I know some get added during winter months with snow and ice removal/sliding around on the paint as well as a few rinseless washes with all the salt on the paint.

The rule of thumb is not how often, but rather use the least aggressive product/method needed to get the job done when it needs doing.  In other words, (and this is sincerely not being a smart ***), if it needs it, do it.  If it doesn't need polishing or correcting, then don't.  Don't do it just because it's been a year or whatever timeframe you've set for yourself.  Having said that, sticking to the least aggressive rule, you should be safe to polish whenever needed.  

this definitely makes sense.  I am assuming I will need to go with a pretty good 2-3 step correction this first time in spring, but after am hoping to only need to do a finishing polish or a light correcting polish.  Not sure how much swirl removal can be done with the finishing polish.