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cchrider

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Posts posted by cchrider

  1. Thats a very good point. Ill try to take a another look at it tomorrow. Although the second square had less and looked better then the first, i believe thats due to me using the orange micro fiber pad then the orange foam amd white foam pad vs the first square i started with just the orange foam pad then went to white foam pad.

    Is there really any way i could over do it with the polishing? Would it be worth it to run more passes with the micro fiber orange pad and work my way back down to finishing polish?

  2. Hey guys, new to polishing here. Im using a pc 7424xp, adams correcting/finish polish, adams orange micro fiber 4 inch pads,orange foam, and white foam pads. I watched plenty of videos, including junkmans.

    Since this is my first go around with this ive only started on the hood of my 13' gmc sierra. I washed it, and clayed the hell out of it. Almost 4 years, 100k miles and never been polished or clayed that i know of, i spent alot of time claying. After claying i taped out 2 1x1 squares on the hood. First square i started with the orange foam and correcting polishing. Did 4 passes, 3 times, then switched to the white foam pad and finishing polish and did the same, 4 passes, 3 times. Paint looked pretty good but could see alot of these tiny, almost white specs all over it. They dont appear to be tiny water spots, thought maybe it was tree sap or something that maybe etched the clear coat? So on the second 1x1 square, i started with the oranged micro fiber pad and correcting polish, 4 passes 3 times, then went to orange foam and corr.polish and did 4 passes 3 times, then to white foam and finish polish 4 passes 3 times. The little specs are better then square one but still there. As for the paint it looks great. No swirls or light scratches,hopefully the couple pics will show up ( never post pics on a message board). post-13859-0-87754600-1475455303_thumb.jpgpost-13859-0-30611700-1475455361_thumb.jpg

  3. Glad I stumbled across this thread since I asked a very similar question in another thread. I also have no leather in my truck except for the console and the steering wheel. I use the total interior detailer and it works fantastic, and I love the new look or "matte" finish. But being in Texas and dealing with the heat and the sun I was looking for something that would add a protection to all the plastics ( dash, door panels, etc.). So looks like I will be ordering some Leather Condition to try out on it!

    Thanks fellas.

  4. First and foremost, make sure your leak is fixed!

     

    A steamer would help lift the stain, and then blot with a microfiber towel. Your headliner looks like it could take a slightly more aggressive method, perhaps carpet and upholstery cleaner sprayed on the stain, and then blot with microfiber towel. Whatever you do, DO NOT SCRUB!

     

    If you end up separating the glue from the headliner, don't worry. There's glue for that....ask me how I know!

    Are you talking about the headliner adhesive that is in a orangish aresal can?? If so, that stuff works awesome! I pretty much redid probably 65 percent of my headliner in my old Camaro with that stuff. awesome product.

  5. Although I do not have leather in my vehicle, am I understanding this correctly... I can use the leather conditioner on my plastic door panels and dash? I wondered since it has the UV protectant in it if that would work. I use the total interior and it works amazing, just wasn't sure if it added any protection (Texas sun and heat can be hell on interiors here).

  6. Well, again it will have to do with how dirty the vehicle is. I stay on top of my truck and never let it get dirty.

    About twice a week I stop by the coin operated car was and rinse the truck off, then go home and wipe it down with detail spray, clean the glass, detail spray on the wheels, and super v.r.t on the plastics and tires. Takes me about 45 on my 13' GMC sierra four door truck.

    I do the same with the interior, I clean it once a week so it never gets very dirty, wipe everything down and vacuum the seats and carpet takes about 45 minutes. As like the other steps, I rinse my engine bay once a week. Spray it all down with all purpose cleaner, and rinse, the super v.r.t plastics and hoses, roughly 20-30 minutes ( I let the engine run after I rinse it, then I take a quick run down the highway to help air dry what I can so I don't have much to dry when I apply vrt.) I believe I spent about 45 minutes once on my engine bay after I let it go and didn't clean it for a couple months, I used all purpose cleaners and some larger brushes for the big stuff, and some smaller paint brushes for the "nooks and crannies". After doing all that I stay on top of the rinses.

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