SgtLip

Caliper and Rotor Hat Painting
 
The brake calipers and rotor hats were starting to rust, so I decided to paint them black, to match the wheels.
 

 

 
 
I used the Dupli-Color kit, which includes cleaner, paint and the brush with the silver handle.  From reviews of the kit, most found the included brush to be junk, so I picked up some better brushes to use. 
 

 
 
In order to prep and paint all four at the same time, I put the truck on jack stands, with some cardboard to keep the floor clean.
 

 
 
The brake caliper cleaner that came with the kit was almost useless, as the solvents dried almost instantly, leaving no time for scrubbing or wiping off the brake dust and grime.  After placing a tub under the area to catch the dirty liquids, I used APC to scrub with a couple small brushes.  To rinse, I used a sprayer bottle of hot water, and then used a sprayer with IPA for the final rinse.
 

 
 
After allowing the areas to dry overnight, I used lacquer masking tape (really sticky) to mask off some areas.
 

 
 
I applied two coats of paint to each area, waiting about 45 minutes between coats.
 

 

 
 
I was not happy with the amount of brush marks left in the surface.  The paint did not really lay down at all, and I have a lot of experience with coatings.  The paint didn't seem overly thick, like it was expired, but just did not level out.
 
After letting the paint dry overnight the wheels were installed.  With the wheels on, the brush marks were not too noticeable. However, I would not use a brush-on kit again, I would mask everything and spray the paint.
 

 

 

Some before and after pics of the latest "appearance" mods:
 
Switched out the chrome lug nuts for black ones.
 


 
 
Got rid of the stock stainless exhaust tips, which I never cleaned (shame on me), because I had planned to paint them.  Buying ceramic coated black ones was less work then painting.
 


 
 
Finally got rid of the blue oval emblem with the chrome bezel on the tailgate .  This one is a stock emblem and bezel that was custom painted to match the truck.
 

I was going back through this tread and realized I never shared my tip to spraying Tire Shine.  With these truck tires, just spraying the applicator does not work to get it into the tread block.  To keep the product off the garage floor when I spray it onto the tread blocks, I cut a piece of cardboard so it fits around the tire.
 

 

 

 

 
To deal with the little bit of Tire Shine overspray that gets on the wheel, I apply Quick Sealant to the wheel first, and then wipe/level it with a Microfiber Utility Towel.  After letting the sealant cure out for a half-hour or so, I spray the Tire Shine and level it out with the Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator.  When I am done with all four tires, I go back with the Utility Towel and wipe any Tire Shine overspray off of the wheel.  The fresh coat of sealant makes wiping off the Tire Shine overspray super easy.
 
After letting the cardboard dry overnight, I fold it up in thirds so it is easy to store.  I have been using this piece of cardboard for about a year now and it is still holding up well.

With the heat wave we have had for the past three weeks, the garage was getting too hot, so I had to move my product into the basement to keep it cool.
 
I look around for some storage bins to fit the 16 oz bottles, and found these.  Each one fits 12 bottles, with a little extra room on the end.  They have flip tops and handles.  The handles do flex some with the weight, though.
 
I put regular washing and cleaning products in one, then polishing products in the other.  This way, I can just grab one container for a typical wash.
 

 

 

 
IRIS 4-Piece Letter Size Portable File Box with Wing-Lid and Handles.

As you can see, correcting the paint does add more shine. Polishing removes scratches you can see, but the polishing is also removing imperfections you can’t see with the naked eye. These imperfections in the clear coat affect the clarity of the reflected light, and removing them is how you get even shinier!

The Liquid Paint Sealant provides plenty of gloss by itself, and I think it will be even shinier once I top it with the H20 Guard & Gloss.

"The One-Bucket Wash Method"
 

 
(For entertainment only, not an approved wash method) 

I have never really been one to put stickers on vehicles, but I figure this sticker is more of a public service announcement for all the people who see me driving down the road and wonder "How the heck does that Raptor get so dang shiny?"
 
Now they know.
 

Put some of the new decals on, will have to see how it holds up on the foam cannon bottle.
 

 

Some Wash Wedge action!
 

 

The HGG is a little weird in that it separates in the bottle.  I gave it a good shake to remix, then kept shaking it while applying it.
 

 
 
After watching the videos on the HGG, it looked like two hands were not enough (1 sprayer and 2 towels).  I am not very good about keeping a towel on my shoulder without dropping it (or grabbing the nearest kid and trying to burp them), so I used a bottle holder as a holster for the sprayer.
 

 
 
This bottle holder has a big flap on the back with Velcro.
 

 
 
It can be hooked around a belt, but I just ended up tucking it inside the waistband on my shorts.  The flap could also be tucked into a pocket.
 

 
 
I used an Adam's Empty Labeled Bottle for the distilled water.
 

A few more photos...
 

 

 

 
 
For this photo, I used a polarizing filter on the lens to remove most of the reflection, which brought out all the metallic in the paint.
 

H2O Guard & Gloss
 
I finally found the time to try out the new HGG.  I did a full wash and rinsed with DI water, then used the Master Blaster to knock some of the water off the hood and the roof and then out of the trim, handles, vents, grill and wheels.
 
The product was thicker than I expected it to be, it tended to be a little gloopy when sprayed.  It spread easily with the wet Double Soft towel and seemed to almost disappear, leaving very little residue to wipe off with the dry Double Soft towel.  I started high and then worked down to the lower areas, just in case there was any dirt hiding out.
 
It took some time, about 45 minutes to do the whole truck, so some of the door and bed panels where dry by the time I got to them.  I tried doing the "dry application method" by spraying the HGG directly onto the wet towel, but it was really hard to tell what I got and what might have been missed.  I then tried misting the dry panels with distilled water, and then applying the HGG in the standard way.  I liked this method better, as I was able to see that it was getting evenly applied.
 
As others have mention, overspray is hard to avoid.  After applying to the whole truck, I went back and hit all the areas that had splatters with the wet towel then immediately with the dry towel.
 
Overall, it turned out nice and shiny.  I am anxious to see how it looks after a few weeks.
 

 

 

 

Master Blaster Revolution
 
Holy windstorm Batman!  This thing blows the Sidekick out of the water, or should I say it blows more water than the Sidekick.
 
While the Sidekick was a good tool for getting most of the water off and out of the cracks and trim, I would have to go back over everything a few times and would still end up with some drips.
 
With the MB Revo, it moves A LOT more air, so it dries faster and gets the cracks and trim blown out with one pass.  The 30-foot long hose is plenty for leaving the unit in one place, which pretty much negates the need for the front swivel wheels.  I found that the sneaky drips that would show up when opening and closing the doors (to dry the jambs) were greatly reduced.
 
I placed the MB on my cart and routed/sanded some of the sides down to make  saddles for the MB to keep it from moving around.
 

 
I added a few hooks to the back of the cart for the cords and for the long hose.
 

 
Having the MB on top prevents storing the pressure washer wand there, so I added some hooks to the side.
 

 
Since the foam cannon is unsteady and kept falling off, I glued a 4-inch hose coupler to the cart to use as a holder.
 

Weather did not cooperate yesterday for round two of the grounding/dust attraction testing.  It was too windy and the truck ended up dusty despite being grounded.
 
I did take some pics though.
 
Grounded to the nail in the parking lot.
 

 
 
Using the plug ground in the garage by connecting the two magnets.
 

 
 
Other end of the ground plug in the wall outlet.
 

 
 
Also, tried to talk the boss into washing his car, but he said he only takes it to the cheapest tunnel wash, so only the top layer of dirt gets scrubbed off.

Might need to do a quick wash tomorrow...
 

 

 
 
Did manage to keep the wheels pointed down though.
 

LEATHER CONDITIONING
 
I think by now, most of you know that I have a rather strong affection for Leather Conditioner. 
 
Since there may be some people that have not tried it yet, here is a quick look at how easy it goes on and how nice and subtle the finished look is.
 
In this photo, the product has just been applied to the left side of the seat with a small microfiber utility towel.
 

 
 
The leather was clean, so the seat was only vacuumed before application.  This leather has always been well-conditioned, so it is not dried out at all. 
 
Here is a photo after about 10 minutes, the product is still wet-looking compared to the untreated side.
 

 
 
The other side of the seat was done, then it was left overnight.
 

 
 
The Leather Conditioner dried to a nice, matte finish.  There is no feeling of residue on the surface.  Now the leather is protected from sun, heat, dirt and spills.
 
The product also works great on all the textured plastic.
 

 
 
Get some, try it, I think you will like it.

How do I wash thee?  Let me count the ways.
 
The two-bucket wash.  You read about it on this forum, you see it in the videos.  It is an excellent method for proper washing and should be the first thing you learn how to do correctly.  However, you will find that sometimes you may need more, and sometimes you could do less.
 
 
One bucket, two or three, It depends on thine needs.
 
This is where I view proper washing as more "performance based" rather than "prescriptive based".  Prescriptive means a list of steps: do this, then this, with this, like a recipe.  The standard two-bucket wash is such a method.  A soap bucket, a rinse bucket, and the prescribed steps for the process, including rinsing the wash pad between each panel.
 
A performance based method describes the desired end result.  In our case, a clean and shiny vehicle that does not get damaged during the washing.  With some experience and consideration of the situation, this will often lead to a washing method other than the standard two-bucket wash.
 
A common improvement is the three-bucket wash, where a third bucket is dedicated to wheels.  This allows the wheels to be done first, before rinsing the entire vehicle.  The benefit is that the vehicle is not left sitting wet, which can lead to water spots.  Then once the wheels are done, the entire vehicle is rinsed and then washed with the other two buckets in the standard fashion.
 
You will read or hear about a four-bucket wash, with dedicated soap and rinse water buckets for the wheels, and then dedicated soap and rinse water buckets for the paint.
 
So this is where your experiences and judgment will be used.  You know the desired end result is a safe, effective wash, so you evaluate the condition of the vehicle and then scale the washing process to fit the conditions.  Inspect the vehicle.  How dirty is it?  What is on the paint?  Just dusty, spotted from a rainstorm, or covered in sand and dirt?  How the does the current weather factor in?  Is it cool and overcast, so that water and soap won't dry during the wash, or is it hot and sunny, so that you will have to be more careful?  Then you can make a decision on the best process to achieve the desired result.
 
When my truck is just dusty, no sand or dirt or rain, and the weather is cloudy and cool, I have done a one-bucket wash.  I know that a good rinse will remove 95% of the dust so the pad isn't really getting dirty enough to require a rinse bucket.  Since the weather is cool, I can do the wheels after the paint with the same bucket.  Once done, I can verify this was sufficient by checking to see that no sand or grit is in the bottom of the bucket.
 
On the other end of the spectrum, I know that if my truck is a dirty pig, covered in dirt, and it is sunny, I will use the four-bucket method.  And when finished, there will be dirt in both rinse buckets.
 
The same thinking is applied to the whole wash process.  Not really dirty, I use the wash pad on a few panels before going to the rinse bucket.  Dirty like a pig, I might rinse the wash pad multiple times on each panel when doing the lower rockers.  For really dirty wheels and tires, I will two-bucket AND do all the wheels first before going back to do the tires and wells.
 
 
I strive to nourish and protect, So as to never cause neglect.
 
Protect, protect, protect.  The foundation to a safe, effective wash is having the proper protection on the paint so that the dirt is easier to get off.  The better the paint is sealed and/or waxed, the easier it will be to remove a good amount of the dust and dirt with a pre-rinse, before you even touch the paint.  During the wash, it will require less work with the wash pad on the paint, which greatly reduces the chances of causing damage to the paint.
 
 
With proper care through time, I will forever enjoy your shine.
 
Regular maintenance washes, done with the proper methods and equipment, can keep your paint in excellent condition.  This reduces, or even eliminates, the need for frequent polishing or paint correction.  If you are having to machine polish out the swirls every year, you may want to consider what is causing the damage to the paint and make changes to your washing routine.
 
Certainly, it is not possible to avoid all paint damage, unless you never take the vehicle out of the garage.  You will likely have situations that will require the need to polish at some point, but how you wash should not be one of them.
 
 
For by the grace of Adam's, I shall keep thee swirl free.
 
The core elements to proper washing are: products, equipment, and methods.  Adam's has you covered on all three.
 
Products: excellent sealants and waxes for protection, effective car wash shampoo designed to provide safe cleaning with maximum lubricity, detail spray for use in drying.
 
Equipment: buckets with dedicated soap or rinse labels, grit guards, wash pads, and microfiber drying towels.
 
Methods: Instructional videos, How-To and FAQ articles on the forum, information and answers from your friends on the forum, company email and phone support for any questions or advice.
 
Getting the results you want makes the process enjoyable.  When you can stand back and admire the swirl-free shine on a vehicle that you have washed forty times in the last year, and the paint still looks as good as the first time, then washing ends up being something fun that you look forward to doing, rather than just a chore that you rush to finish.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

For interior cleaning, I think it is important to vacuum everything before wiping with TID or LC.  This removes the dust so that it does not end up in collecting in the nooks and crannies of the plastic areas (doors, dash, console) or the seams and perforations on the seats.  I vacuum from top to bottom in each seating position, doing the floors last.  I also use dedicated attachments for the floor, so I am not transferring dirt from the floor up and onto the seats, dash or doors.  I also found that a typical brush attachment causes small scratches in the shiny plastics, so I have a soft-bristle dusting brush for plastics and leather, and use the brush that came with the vac for floors.
 
Here's the attachments I use.  The crevice tool has a flexible end which helps getting into the hard-to-reach places.
 

 
 
The soft-bristle dusting brush on the dash...
 

 
 
...and the seats, paying special attention to the perforations...
 

 
 
and then the doors.
 

 
 
Then the regular brush on the floors.
 

 
 
After vacuuming the carpets, I spot treat any dirty areas with CUC.
 

 

 
 
Then scrub with the Cockpit Brush and wipe with a cheap towel.
 

 
 
This area was not completely soiled, so the towel is not filthy...
 

 
 
...but regular light cleaning means not having to use the Bissell.
 

 
 
To show the difference on the brushes, I used the CD Test.  The regular brush on the right half at 100 passes.
 

 
 
Then the soft-bristle dusting brush on the left, also with 100 passes.
 

 
 
The regular brush caused a lot of scratches.
 

 
 
The soft-bristle brush also caused a few scratches, so you would still want to use a light touch and not scrub on any shiny chrome accent trim or other glossy interior surfaces.

It has been exactly four months since I applied LPS and Americana Wax, and it still beads like crazy. This is after today's wash, so the beads aren't even like when it rains.
 

 

 
 
Even the plastic has nice beading, as it was sealed with QS.
 

Well, there is one room on this entire planet where I am the Boss-of-My-Ownself, and it is called MY OFFICE!
 
It is a room free of toys, glitter, owl decorations and, most importantly, nagging.  However, maintaining the sanctity of this space is a constant struggle: "Do NOT come in here with that glitter covered dress", "That is my tape dispenser, use your own", "Where is my phone, it is the one with the OFFICE label".  Sometimes, I even have to say these same things to my kids!  (When I said free of nagging, I meant listening to other people nag).
 
Since I built this retreat with my own ideas and hands, it is acoustically insulated, has a solid-core door with deadbolt, has only the manliest of decorating styles, and is powered by a liquid-cooled super-computer running four high-def screens and 5.1 Surround Sound.
 
Despite the fact that I have clearly established my dominance over this space, upon showing the shrine to the Lady of the House, I was promptly accused of moving pictures of the kids to make room on the shelf.  Luckily, I had only relocated a portion of my hat collection.
 

When I grow up I wanna be like you!

BLUE vs. RED
A Head-to-Head Foam-off
 
Three ounces in each foam cannon bottle.
 

 
 
Shaken, not stirred.
 

 
 
BLUE on the left, RED on the right.
 

 
 
After one minute.
 

 
 
After two minutes.
 

 
 
After three minutes.
 

 
 
After four minutes.
 

 
 
In both trials, the truck had just been washed and rinsed, so that the first shampoo did not have more dirt to cling to in the first trial.  After the first trial, the truck was rinsed and then the red shampoo was used.
 
The photos were taken with a timer remote at one minute intervals.  During the second trial, there was a little more sun so the foam looks whiter, but there was no real difference in appearance.  In both trials, the passenger side was foamed using cold DI water on a 45 degree day.  The photos of the second trial were then flipped and added to the photos for the first trial.
 
As shown, the new blue shampoo does not seem to foam or cling any better than the original red shampoo. BUT HERE'S THE DIFFERENCE, the new blue shampoo is more slippery, it feels like the old red shampoo with Rinseless mixed in.  I have been foaming with a mix of 3oz of shampoo and 1oz of Rinseless for the last year, but the rinseless would decrease the overall foam and hang-time.
 
With the new blue shampoo, there is still good foam with the added benefit of more lubrication.
 
As for performance in the bucket, I did not see much of a difference in original foaminess, but the new blue did last a little longer and it was easier to build more foam by stirring the brushes or pad.  I actually ended up with more foam in the wash pad bucket after really working the pad on the grit guard then when it was first filled.
 
In these wheel cleaning buckets, the blue is on the right and the red on the left.
 
First filled with hot water from the sink faucet.
 

 
 
Twelve minutes later I start on the wheels.
 

 
 
Fifteen minutes of washing wheels, tires and wells.
 

 
 
The new blue wildberry scent is nice, and it is definitely stronger than the original red cherry.
 
In summary, the new blue has more lubricity but the foam cannon results are the same.  In the bucket, the foaminess is improved.  Overall a nice improvement, but not a huge difference.  But that's what happens when you improve on a product that is already a good performer.
 

ALL-WEATHER FLOOR MATS
CLEANING AND PROTECTION
 
Shortly after buying the truck, I found that the OEM all-weather floor mats were impossible to keep clean.  I would scrub them clean, but the first footprints would leave them dirty, they were basically dust magnets.  So I switched from the OEM all-weather floor mats to  carpet mats for spring, summer and fall.  Once winter set in, I went back to the all-weathers, but figured I would try some different products to add some protection and make maintenance cleanings easier.
 
I started with a good cleaning with the pressure washer and scrubbing with APC.
 

 

 
After a good rinse, I let them dry overnight and then put on a  few heavy coats of In & Out Spray, using about 3/4 of a can. 
 

 
Dried overnight then back into the truck.  I found that they were really slippery and the baby-powder scent was too much for me.  After a week of use, I didn't try to see how they would wipe down, as I knew this product would not work for me.
 
So the next weekend, another APC scrub and rinse, overnight dry, and then a few coats of TID.  I gave them a heavy spray, letting the product soak in, sprayed on another coat, and then wiped off the excess with a towel.  After drying overnight, the mats were not as slippery as before, and they wiped up real nice during weekly maintenance cleanings, using a terry towel sprayed with TID.
 
After a month of using TID for maintenance wipe downs, I pressure washed, scrubbed with APC, dried overnight, and then tried some LC.  I used the interior brush to spread the product around, getting it into the ribs.  I did a few coats, allowing some time for the product to soak in, then wiped the excess.
 

 
This product was about the same level of slippery as the TID, but I found that they were easier to wipe down when moderately dirty.  I think the LC provided a better layer of protection, and the dirt just sat on top where it was easy to wipe off.
 
Here is a mat after a week of use.  A little dirty but not filthy enough to warrant a pressure wash and scrub.
 

 
I gave them a good vacuuming to remove anything loose.
 

 
A little LC on a terry towel and then gave them a wipe down.
 

 
The mats finished up looking nice.
 

 
And the towel is left with the dirt.
 

 
Overall, I think the LC works best for protecting, and I really prefer this scent over the other products.
 
(For those of you that work on customer's cars, I would recommend against applying a heavy coat of any product for the purpose of adding protection, as it makes them slippery and could result in liability if they had an accident.  For my own mats, I know to be careful.)

I decided to try the LC on all the textured, black plastic inside the truck (doors, dash, pillars).  I had been using TID for all the interior plastic and it worked well but I figured the higher UV protection in the LC might be better.  Also, since it is a straight conditioner/protectant and has no cleaners like the TID, I think it will provide better protection against dirt smudges, food smears, kid boogers, etc.
 
Turns out that the LC gave the plastics a deeper, richer look than the TID.  I applied it with a MF towel and it left a nice, uniform appearance.  I then went back and wiped any residue off the smooth plastics with a clean towel and TID.