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DaveVY

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Posts posted by DaveVY

  1. I am with a few others on here... I am adjusting but don't care for it. The overall feel is more sterile or less friendly than the old site. And have to scroll a lot more too. Don't like that I don't have emoticons when posting from the iPad either.

     

    It makes me feel "old" when changes take place and I like the prior version better. (Insert some old looking emoticon here)

  2. I feel dumb for having to ask this question, tried to search but the search results seemed useless... How do I find/use the emoticons in a reply? I cannot find anything. I typically use Safari on an iPad in full site mode.

     

    Been trying to be positive and stay open minded about the new forum site change, with the exception of the overall look and feel (which is nice and ties with the adams polishes website better) I really dislike the functional part of the user interface. For the past month I have been forcing myself to try to continue reading but find that I spend much less time here now. It just isn't as intuitive as the past site.

  3. A couple other US sock companies that we found this week are:

    http://www.darntough.com/ - made in VT with lifetime guarantee

    http://www.wigwam.com/aboutus.aspx - made in WI

     

    Just bought a pair of the Wigwam Merino Comfort Hiker and used them one day, really like them so far. Good wicking and no tendency to slide down. One day isn't much experience ...

     

    Does anyone have long term use experience with the Wigwam or Darn Tough?

     

    Chris, are the FITS the sock you used on your recent hike?

  4. The way I dry my pads I learned here a couple years back, but don't recall who suggested this to give them credit for this.

     

    After washing the pads, wring them out, wrap in a towel and wring again. Then set a box fan on its side on a CLEAN floor (putting something under the box fan to keep it off the floor to allow air movement), place the pads on top and turn it on.

     

    Even in Florida summer humidity the pads will be dry overnight! :2thumbs:

     

    image_zps6a5ae280.jpg

  5. The Vette clear coat is very hard and will take a little longer to correct than most other cars.

     

    Just work a small 2'x2' area until you find the right technique and know how many passes you will need of each polish type to get the level of correction you want. Don't move on to the rest of the hood or car until you get that one area correct, this will save you time and frustration.

     

    Learning to correct on Yellow paint is a little tougher than darker colors because it is more difficult to see when the polish "flashes". Working a polish too long (past the "flash") will result in less than optimal results (will usually look hazy).

     

    Be careful of applying too much polish, the first application of polish to the clean pad requires more than subsequent applications. When doing another pass look at the pad, the pores should NOT be getting plugged with polish, if they are plugged you have way too much and the polishing will not be effective. Use the cleaning brush to gently remove the excess. If pores are relatively open but the pad is getting too dry, just use a spritz of detail spray to moisten the polish for your next pass. If there isn't enough polish then add just 3 or so pea sized drops and a tiny spritz of detail spray.

     

    These are just suggestions, you will need to develop a technique that works for you, eventually you won't need to inspect the pad every couple minutes because you will develop a skill/technique and will be able to see how the polish looks on the car and automatically know what to do.

     

    "flashes" = when the polish changes from the milky/opaque look to a greasy/transparent look'

     

    "Pass" = the time from a spritz of detail or application of polish to the pad until the polish flashes

     

    After trying this a couple times watch the videos again, you will probably learn things you didn't see before! (I know I did when learning)

     

    :cheers:

  6. what did you use to agitate the DWC when u put it on the car?

     

    I gently agitated with a light touch using an Adams boars hair brush (lug nut brush). It worked well, especially in some of the small grooves along the bumper line. Theoretically it can produce some mild swirling but then using a clay bar after this DWC process can cause swirling too. Just realize that if you use a boars hair brush that you may need to do some mild correction. :cheers:

  7. it sort of is capable of it, took my sisters for a spin when my FR-S was in the shop. It's a fun little go cart!

     

    It is fun, like a go-cart! It's turning radius is ridiculously small, I can turn it around in the driveway (3 pt turn) and believe I could do that in the 2 car garage too! For around town running errands it is pretty fun, though a different type of fun than the Vette!! :2thumbs:

  8. I fully plan to use this on my G8... Heck, this is the main reason I bought it. White CC RAM 1500... I'm not killing myself claying it all off. :)

     

    It worked great on this white paint! After seeing what it took off I can now understand why someone would want to use this before claying ad it will reduce the amount of time needed working the clay and will reduce the amount of contaminants that the clay will have to deal with, thus prolonging the life of the clay and reducing the amount of marring the clay will cause.

  9. Did you just spray right on the car or use a cannon or anything special?

     

    I sprayed it right on the car, waited a couple minutes for the purple magic to happen, then agitated it. Sprayed a couple spots with DWC that were a little dry and let it sit for a couple more minutes to see if there were any spots where the purple magic was still needing more time. Agitated and then rinsed. :thumbsup:

  10. Nice Job. That's my main reason for owning 2 gallons of DWC! I wouldn't waste it on a crap rental Fiat tho lol.

     

    Looks like it works pretty good for paint decon. I can't blame you for cleaning up the rental. I had one last year when my Taurus was in for some body work and if it hadn't been the rainy season I would have cleaned it up the same, I hate driving a dirty car.

     

    I don't like driving dirty cars, rental or owned by me. Besides cleaning the car isn't work, it is my therapy time and just because my car was in the shop doesn't mean that I should suffer and not have time to "unwind". :lolsmack:

     

    I didn't use DWC over the entire car, just half of the back hatch and of course all 4 wheels. :o The rental is going back MUCH cleaner than it was when I picked it up.

     

    Of course I will have more intense "therapy time" once I get MY car back from the body shop, I expect there will be swirls and holograms galore to eradicate! :cheers:

  11. While my car is in the shop I got a little white Fiat 500 as a rental, less than 2k on the odometer. It needed some TLC, I intended to just give it a quick wash but I ended up doing a little more than that! :o

     

    The car, although small, took an inordinate amount of time to get reasonably clean. It really needs to be clayed but it is a rental so I wasn't going to go that far. The white color makes the iron deposits on the car visible, decided to try out the DWC as others here on the forum have shown.

     

    This pic shows the back of the car, with DWC having been just applied to the right side.

    Fiat5000_zpse6d77ec2.jpg

     

    Around a minute later

    Fiat5003_zps6caa30ca.jpg

     

    After agitation and rinsing, from this distance you can't tell the difference

    Fiat5004_zps906a01b3.jpg

     

    Here is a closeup of the left side (no DWC), notice the dirt and iron deposits

    Fiat5005_zps657e126a.jpg

     

    And a closeup of the right side (had DWC), notice the grit and iron deposits are gone.

    Fiat5006_zpsf5202d78.jpg

     

    The results were pretty dramatic, still could use a clay bar but the embedded contaminants in the paint were dramatically reduced by the use of DWC! :2thumbs:

  12. The old one was wood with a metal band and the new one is all plastic with epoxy holding the fibers in. There's no issue with rot if left wet, & there's no issue with scratching if you get careless.

     

    I got one of the new ones and was unimpressed at first. I thought it was too stiff and harsh. Once I used it though and got it wet and some DWC and APC on it, it shined. It's perfect. At first I thought they were plastic bristles, because they were so perfectly black, but come to find out, my brush was made from the hair of a BLACK STALLION. <<< OK ok... A black boar, but hey, I bet it was an attractive boar!

     

    :lol:

     

    Overall, VERY happy with it. Just had to get it wet I guess. ???

     

    I agree, my initial impression was not good. It looked cheap and looked like plastic bristles, but knew that if Adams was selling it then I shouldn't worry. After using it I do find it is a good brush but still think it looks cheap. Also find that a few bristles fall out with each use. Personally I like the old brush better in terms of look and feel, but the new brush is an improvement in terms of width and no metal ring.

    :2thumbs:

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