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My 2002 Ford Ranger. An on going project.


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I got my Ranger in Dec 2002. Been working on it ever since.

 

About a week or 2 after I brought it home. I had already installed the CB radio. (Now gone)

 

DSCN0202.jpg

 

 

My first upgrade. An A.R.E. hard tonneau cover.

 

Newhardbedcover2.jpg

 

A few views of the interior. It took me 4 years to get to this point.

 

 

Interior6.jpg

 

Interior5.jpg

 

 

Interior3.jpg

 

 

Interior2.jpg

 

 

Interior1.jpg

 

After driving on a 2/3 drop for 4 years. Decided to bag it last summer.

Mistake. BIG mistake. This is my daily driver.

I know it doesn't show much on a white truck. but with the Adam's products it sparkles in the sun.

 

AirupFrontZEROair.jpg

 

 

AirupBackZEROair.jpg

 

 

AirupZEROair.jpg

 

 

A photo shop of where I plan to go when my wallet recovers.

I'm retired and living on a fixed income, so that may take a while.

Like everyone else the economy is playing heck with my ability to do things.

I plan to go a bit darker on the bottom. Probably match the color of the sub/amp box.

 

Twotone-57chrome.jpg

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Sweet truck!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

I'm not familiar with air bags, why was it a big mistake?:help:

 

When I had the bags installed more than a year ago, the dealer neglected to install an air/water filter. I found this out after much online research. This filter removes the moister from the air as it's being compressed. The system worked OK for about 3-4 months. After that the air valves started sticking, due to moister/gunk in the lines. It's gotten to the point now, where I have to get under the truck almost every times I use it and tap those valves with a hammer to free them up. A major PITA. Had the valve been installed this would probably not have become an issue. However as it stands now, the truck is so unreliable, I'm afraid to get more than a few miles from home with it. This fall I'll get under there myself and redo all the plumbing and install the filter. When that's done I understand I'll still have to empty some sort of a catch can of the accumulated moisture periodically. Not as much trouble as tapping on the valves, but still one more thing I must remember to do.

 

With 20/20 hindsight I think I should have stayed with the 2/3 drop.

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Looks good... When it comes to DD's less is more IMO. I did a suspension upgrade on my G8 and went stock spring height which actually lowered the rear slightly to level the car out. I wish I could lower it, but as a DD it just wouldn't work.

 

I agree. The bottom should be darker and perhaps a metallic too.

 

Chris

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Looks good... When it comes to DD's less is more IMO. I did a suspension upgrade on my G8 and went stock spring height which actually lowered the rear slightly to level the car out. I wish I could lower it, but as a DD it just wouldn't work.

 

I agree. The bottom should be darker and perhaps a metallic too.

 

Chris

 

 

 

I don't agree with that 100% Chris. If done in moderation, many upgrades can work well on a DD. It's only when you start going to extremes that you start running into problems. Below is a photo of my Ranger when I had a 2" front and 3" rear drop. The reason I went with the drop in the first place was for better handling, not looks. With the stock set up on my truck it was a handful on windy days. Driving some mountain roads in Calif on a rainy day became a "white knuckle" affair. With the 2/3 drop, better shocks and tires, handling improved dramatically. Not quite on a par with Corvettes, but good enough for a 71 year old man. The tire/wheel combo adds to the illusion of the truck being lower than it actually is. Stock was 27" tall. These are 29". I drove this set up for about 4 years and probably 45K-50K miles. The ONLY problem I had was a slight rubbing of the front inner fender wells on bumpy roads. Something I could live with. My mistake was letting some kids talk me into "slamming" it. I first went with a 4/5 static drop and hated it. So the next step was bags. If the air/water filter cures the problems I'll be happy. If not, I'm not sure what I'll do.

 

DSCN0309.jpg

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When I had the bags installed more than a year ago, the dealer neglected to install an air/water filter. I found this out after much online research. This filter removes the moister from the air as it's being compressed. The system worked OK for about 3-4 months. After that the air valves started sticking, due to moister/gunk in the lines. It's gotten to the point now, where I have to get under the truck almost every times I use it and tap those valves with a hammer to free them up. A major PITA. Had the valve been installed this would probably not have become an issue. However as it stands now, the truck is so unreliable, I'm afraid to get more than a few miles from home with it. This fall I'll get under there myself and redo all the plumbing and install the filter. When that's done I understand I'll still have to empty some sort of a catch can of the accumulated moisture periodically. Not as much trouble as tapping on the valves, but still one more thing I must remember to do.

 

With 20/20 hindsight I think I should have stayed with the 2/3 drop.

Thanks for clearing that up. That is a mess of a problem your having with that and it shouldn't be!

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I don't agree with that 100% Chris. If done in moderation, many upgrades can work well on a DD.

 

That's what I meant... Less is more... lol

 

I'd love headers and a cam in my car but reliability is key here for me right now.

 

Keep us up to date on the new additions to the ride and the results of the drier.

 

Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...
When I had the bags installed more than a year ago, the dealer neglected to install an air/water filter. I found this out after much online research. This filter removes the moister from the air as it's being compressed. The system worked OK for about 3-4 months. After that the air valves started sticking, due to moister/gunk in the lines. It's gotten to the point now, where I have to get under the truck almost every times I use it and tap those valves with a hammer to free them up. A major PITA. Had the valve been installed this would probably not have become an issue. However as it stands now, the truck is so unreliable, I'm afraid to get more than a few miles from home with it. This fall I'll get under there myself and redo all the plumbing and install the filter. When that's done I understand I'll still have to empty some sort of a catch can of the accumulated moisture periodically. Not as much trouble as tapping on the valves, but still one more thing I must remember to do.

 

With 20/20 hindsight I think I should have stayed with the 2/3 drop.

 

most kits come with cheap valves, definately scrap what you have and put on some Parkers. I used to have a set on a VW and never had any issues with them. They were for some kind of industrial application. They are fully rebuildible too, and easy to do should you ever need to. Moisture seperator will barely cost anything. Just put it in a spot where it's not hard to drain. You could probably get by for now with just lubing your valves if you have not tried that already. You can use air tool oil on them and should lube them every once in a while anyway. It really helps to set up your valves/fittings in easily accessable locations. I've seen more bad air bag installs than I've seen good ones.

Edited by SweetDaddyDelicious
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I had my bagged bug for 6 years and never had problems (other that the terrible ride, jacking up a strut on a huge pothole in Chicago one time, the occasional slow leak, and needing to remember to disarm the system when parked for several days/weeks/months) but no valve problems. I don't remember what valves I had by Parker, but they were were definitely overkill and worked great, and I used the air ride quite a bit.

 

I agree though, that air ride is not the best on a daily driver.

 

Funny the car I daily drive now is lower stock than most lowered cars and more comprimise than most modified cars and I love every minute of it.

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