scuba

Likely had very little to do with ambient conditions or the product and everything to do with the condition of the surface you were working on. Based on the description you had very severely oxidized/chalky paint, correct?

 

You were contending with a residue control problem (dead clear being removed) and a porous surface holding onto the polishes. When paint is severely oxidized its not uncommon for it to almost absorb liquids that are used on it. Products containing silicones and waxes are usually the worst.

Not much you can do in terms of preventing it other than go with a mechanical removal (pure abrasive) process in the early stages (P2000 or P3000 sanding) before jumping to the chemicals. While many people will quiver at the idea of jumping in with sandpaper on a very oxidized finish, the reality is with a fine grit you are actually probably REDUCING the overall material removal vs. a compounding process as you'll remove the dead material and only be left with light correction work. Food for thought.

Good info, Dylan. I ran into the same issue as the OP detailing an 01 740iL a few weeks ago, and I got so frustrated thinking I was doing something wrong or it was too hot or the polish was bad. Learned something new today so thank you! My question then is, would working a smaller area at a time help, or maybe changing out pads more often? More wetting agent? Or is wet sanding before going to polish the only solution? Thanks.

Thank you.

Great looking Vette! I have an 02 (the car in my profile pic) and I had the same issue with water spots like that. Even with a flex3401, it took a lot of passes to get them (mostly) out. I can't imagine doing it with a PC. Enjoy that car, they are great fun to drive!

Hi folks,

 

Can Adam's carpet and upholstery cleaner be used in a carpet washer/extractor and if so, what dilution ratio would you all recommend? Thanks.

Hey Scuba-

 

My 'home chapter' with PCA is Riesentoter... and I have run with them on track.  However, I run with any PCA chapter... and I'll be trying 'TrackTime4Cars' soon.  I'll also eventually check out NASA and SCCA.

Cool. Riesentoter is a great group of folks. I'm running with them at the Glen next month. TT4C seems like a good deal too. Was going to do an HPDE with them a few weeks ago but ran into last minute car trouble. Maybe I'll see you out there sometime in that sweet GT3!

Looks awesome, man. Great work!

Tarminator and clay bar have worked for me after driving on the track.

 

Off topic, I see you're in southeast PA. You drive on the track with PCA Riesentoter by chance?

Thanks, I will give that a try.

I have a scuff of white paint on my mustangs door. Wondering if anyone has any ideas about how to remove it. Clay doesn't do a thing. Haven't tried to polish it yet but it's pretty thick. Not sure how effective polish would be.

come on, just leave the Obama sticker on there, ha!!!

Hahaha now that cracked me up!

Wow Dan, that's a lot of decal removal! My one puny sticker doesn't seem so bad anymore lol. Thanks to everyone for your help!

Thanks for the quick replies. Yeah the idea of a heat gun on plastic bumper makes me uneasy as well. I'll try a hair dryer. It's pretty well stuck on there even if it is cracked but hopefully heat will help. I know it'll come off with some force but I don't want to mess up the paint, at least beyond what polishing could fix.

Good afternoon folks. I just recently bought a 2002 Z06 for track days and the previous owner put a bumper sticker (which I hate) on the rear bumper. The sticker has been on the car for years and is cracked into about a thousand pieces. Obviously this is gonna be a giant pain to remove but wondering if anybody has any tips or tricks to make it a little easier to remove without destroying the paint. Thanks, Greg.

Mine looks the same and the lid takes quite a bit of muscle to twist off. I've had my container for 2 years and store it in the refrigerator. Not a huge deal for me but hopefully they've made some improvements to the container for Americana. Adam and his team will take care of you for sure though.

A picture would help to determine what's necessary for you. Adams orange paint correcting polish with the 4" pad and cordless drill has worked for me to fix light to moderate oxidation but wet sanding is all you can do for heavier stuff. Whatever you use, be sure to apply some new UV coating to the lights otherwise they will quickly oxidize again.

Adam, that's awesome of you to admit your mistakes publicly like this. Very rare for a company these days, and it also shows you're a man of integrity and honesty. This is why I love Adams Products and will continue to remain a loyal customer!

Thanks very much!

Chris, could you please upload this pic as my profile picture?

A friend of mine recently bought an S2000 and asked me to help him detail it. So we spent the day today giving the car the full Adams treatment; wash, clay, polish, sealant, full interior detail and engine bay. In doing so I made a believer out of my friend in the superiority of Adams products. We didn't get any good before pictures but here are a couple of the finished product:

If you use the finishing polish and it doesn't work? Do you have to remove before using correcting polish? Or just go over it with correcting polish and you're good?

Correcting polish is used before finishing polish and no, the correcting polish does not have to be removed prior to the next step. However, to be clear, are you asking about removing the finishing polish AFTER doing both correcting and finishing steps and not being satisfied with the result? Because in that case, I would say yes, remove the polish so that you can easily see the results of your work and determine your next course of action.

That's a tough choice! I voted liquid paint sealant because of its longetivity and usefulness on any vehicle. Although quick sealant is right up there too. I haven't tried H2O G&G so can't comment on that. For the ultimate shine though, Patriot can't be beat.

Maybe tree sap? Pictures are the only way we'll be able to help you.

Thank you, Chris!

It of course depends on how soiled the wheels are but in general, I use around 2-4 oz per cleaning when using DWC. Once you've cleaned the wheels with DWC, you'll only need soap and water to maintain them if you clean them regularly. Sealing them will make your life even easier still.

Here's the pic I'm trying to upload: