landshark

Ok, one more questions guys. IF I'm going to mod my GG6 with a 5" backing plate, will I defeat the purpose of getting the Rupes 15? In that case, I'd better to get the Rupes 21 then, right? Or is there any 4" backing plate for the GG6 out there (retire the GG3 and save me $$ from getting a Rupes mini)?? Thanks again.

I use Gladiator Garage's wall system for hanging stuffs (included polishers) in my garage. Works great. And there's many other similar wall hanging system that you can get from like HD/Lowes.

Lol sure. In fact, the Rupes mini is on my list. I always feel the GG3 isn't powerful enough for any serious correction.

Thanks guys. I think Jason's idea sound great. I'll get a 21mm and might convert (or even keep) my old GG6.

Or do you think I should get the 21mm (for the big panels like hood, door, roof, etc.) and use my old GG 6" on the tight/curve areas (like rear quarter panels, etc.)? That way, I could just use one size of pads for both machines. I think what I'm looking for is correction speed or time saving.

Thanks for all your advices guys! Much appreciated. I should also add most of my clients are modern sport cars/sedans. And I'm afraid the 21mm longer stoke will have its limitations on some of those curvy body panels. (eg. Porsche)

I've been wanting to upgrade my GG 6" polisher and had my eye on the Rupes. I was about to order one somewhere else but am glad that Adam's has finally adopted and updated the Rupes (and pads). And I guess I could finally ask this question here. My background, the GG 6" works fine, but the vibration kills me. And I want to be able to correct faster as I do a detailing side business too. So time is money. And I also have a GG 3" too (hoping to replace to the Rupes mini one day). So if I could only get one Rupes, which one would you recommended? 21mm? 15South I'm leaning towards the 21mm btw. Thanks in advance guys.

Another vote on the LPS due to its durability, ease of use, and good amount of shine. If there's only one, then it's gonna be it. Even tho I do like and use other products, LPS is still my go to or preferred LSP in the Adam's family.

What most said. As long as you didn't wait too long in between wash (a month or more), just some car shampoo is all it'll take. Especially if you using something like Quick Sealant to seal it after wash. The brake dust will be fairly easy to come off.

That's what I thought. Thanks. To Mod, feel free to delete my post if you feel like.

Just curious why nobody mentioned Rupes? Is it because of the price? Or else? I've been thinking to upgrade my polisher from GG, and was had my eye on the Rupes. PS I do detail for dollar in my garage.

It's a major PITA to remove the film especially if it's years old. I know most tint shop charge as much as installation, if not more, for removal!

Thanks Dylan.

Thanks Darryl. That's exactly my thoughts. Not trying to correct, but to clean up & brighten before I coat it.

Could clearbra be polished? Would it help? I know I could claybar it, but want to see if polishing will helps for minor swirl marks and/or will it look better? Or I shouldn't bother? Thanks guys.

+2!

thanks Ryan, it's Racedeck flooring.

This http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27911-detail-flow-chart/

Gladiator cabinets. Thanks guys.

As others had said, it's just the life here or everywhere. I have a black car, and even parked inside the garage, I swear the car is cover with pollen/dust the next morning after I washed the car! One thing I would do differently is not to use detail spray as it contain some degree of wax and wax is a good attraction for pollen. I think the new HGG might be a better drying/protection option for the current time of the year. Just my $0.02.

Here's my "detailing shop" I upgraded from the regular single light bulb ceiling light to 3 higher power shop light on the ceiling. (thinking to add a couple more later) Wall mount ShopVac, and my power washer. Recently added the cord reel. Love it! I hate manually reeling the cords/hoses/extension cord. Varies tools & brushes. My Adam's collection

One situation I found myself using the foam canon + PW is the pollen season like now. I washed my car the past week, no rain, but the whole car is covered in yellow color (black car). This morning I use the foam canon to foam the whole car, let the soap/foam run off, foam again, then just use the PW to rinse it off. Didn't touch the car at all, talk about full touchless wash. And use the "padding" drying method with the great white dry towel to dry. Car is safely cleaned. Only need to bring out the canon and the PW. Took me 30 mins from start to finish. It's a good way to just quick wash the car as long as it isn't that dirty and especially easier if your car is sealed or coated as most stuffs won't stick on the paint. Makes this touchless method workable and no chances of scratches/rubbing. Now if the car is anywhere I suspect it's dirty, a traditional two buckets method will be needed.

I have this PW. AR Blue Clean AR383 1,900 PSI 1.5 GPM 14 Amp Electric Pressure Washer with Hose Reel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z8E52Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_u1dtvb1EYFBBE With 2-3oz soap, filled with water, I have no problem foaming the car, twice. However, I don't use it all the time unless the car is very dirty. Mainly due to the fact that it's a little more work for me to get it in and out. Plus I prefer the sheeting rinse method and do not believe the needs of a PW for the rinse process. I use a foam gun for regular wash instead.