DJJimGreen

I could have used this over the past month.... haha.

Yes the polymers encapsulate the minerals, softening and purifying the water and add lubrication. Similar to ONR as it's the same technology. Add an ounce to your soap bucket when you wash as well.

This is news to me!!! Well, fantastic. Happy I lurk around all the forum areas.

I'd go with about 3 oz of shampoo and 1 oz of Rinseless to neutralize the hard water.

 

Use warm water, and pour the soap in last. I'd also put it on D or E as well.

 

I have a Griots foaming gun for the hose and although it's not adjustable I get a damn respectable amount of suds for only using about 2 oz

Pause. Rinseless neutralizes hard water?!

Uuuugh I wish I could cover up my car. If only it weren't my daily..

Run it at speed 5-6 with a white polishing pad or if it is really soft paint use a red or black finishing pad.

check. thank you sir!

Rock that cyclo instead of doing revive by hand!

I would have loved to! I'm moving in a week and already packed up my extension cable somewhere, so I was stuck in manual mode. Hahaha. That brings up a question though! Revive in a cyclo, would you run it at a speed that only spreads? Or woud you go for a cut like the orange correction polish and run at 5-6?

Good look! Is it bad the first thing in my mind is "well, that'd take a while to detail..." haha

The buttery wax I recently got had the pump and for some reason I feel better squeezing it out. Can't really understand why though.

You should invest in a DA.  You will thank yourself later.

For sure. I actually recently bought the cyclo and want to purchase a flex. I just wasn't able to use the cyclo yet, for technical reasons.

Especially if you are considering doing this for money, side money or full time.

 

Hell I am up to 4 different polishers. They all have their place.

Definitely. I want the flex, have the cyclo and also found a pretty nifty 3 inch that I think would be neat to have. Expensive hobbies... haha

$21.95

 

 

 

 

Hahaha good answer bro.

Black cars are the devil's work.  I curse my wife every time I clean hers (Toyota = soft, black, non-metallic = the WORST)

 

She bought it while we were dating so I didn't have much pull then on color choice, but I will tell you one thing, never again.  And especially never Toyota black again.  You look at it wrong and sneeze while holding Detail Spray and it swirls.

Exactly. I have a pitch black dodge challenger (so, just plain black) and the thing has small scratches all over. Did a full detail on Monday and the next day I had a fine layer of dirt over it. I was like "really? 12 hours?" Hahahaha

CURSES! How much do I gotta spend to have one of these thrown in!? Hahaha

A man who knows his total microfiber count is a true man.

 

I'm at 82 myself.

Looks like I've got some catching up to do....

Sidenote, why did I get a black car? What a chore. Hahahaha

With any of the steps Id say one panel per squirt of product, whether wax , glaze or the polish is where I was at. Glaze I seemed to get a lot out of.

You're probably using more products than you need being new, you'll get it down with time. I use a lot of towels for stuff, like em fresh. I have north of 70 MF and there are guys with way more than me. 

 

Having a lot gives me that breathing room. 

Yea, definitely. Any thoughts on what you use per panel? I found myself "refilling" as it wasn't visibly looking to apply after a panel or so.

Welcome to the club Jim!  Everyone could have a different answer to your time question (the old "how long does it take to read a book?" question).  But 4 hours for a medium sized car sounds good!  It is hard to work a hand polish to the 'vaseline' state.  

I use towels sparingly, but I know others the would easily double your number.

Either towel is fine for clay residue removal, but if you are following with a polish, not reason to use the super soft towels.

Got you. Thanks too! It was a challenger, so a bit long and wide (giggity) of a car. Yea, I found that after a while of wiping down, they would really lose their effectiveness, so I'd start up a new towel. Could have also been that I used more than usual product, as I'm just starting out..

Woot! I'm excited to say I finished my first detail job. A few things I'm curious about though..

How long does it generally take you to do a wash/claybar/revive hand polish/glaze/wax?

That was my process and took me about 4 hours. However, I don't think I worked in the revive polish correctly. I used the blue hex but didn't really rub it in to "vasoline state."

How many double soft microfiber towels do you go through? I used like 6. Felt excessive, but I could be crazy....

I dried before claybaring, but realized I could just dry after claybaring to save a step/some time. However, if I do that, should I still use a drying towel to clean off the clay residue? Or should I stick with the double softs? I feel like I'm going to need more double softs..

Anywho, that's all for now. I'll post up pics when it's actually sunny..

*edit*

Also, how much product do you find yourself using? 1 panel before reloading your applicators? More? less?

I started with a PC and soon found myself wanting a Flex.  I ended up picking one up from Phil @ Detailers Domain when Adam's quit carrying them.  Love the Flex. 

Am I missing something? Looks like they carry it.....?

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/kits/adam-s-flex-3401-vrg-dual-action-orbital-polisher.html

I think I might the only person that doesn't like the Flex... Well to be clear just the 3401. I have a 3403 VRG but that is a rotary and I love that one.

 

The backwards rotation throws me off on it and ends up walking me around panels like a noob.

Interesting! Good to keep in mind. Thanks!

I pretty much leave mine all the way cranked up. The low speeds on the cyclo are kinda worthless.

 

Use the PC for sealant/wax and the rotary for heavy work.

I want to get a flex, but the whole money thing is limiting.

For polishing, start at 3-4 to spread the polish out, then crank it up to 6.

 

For spreading wax or sealant, 2-4.

 

The low speeds really don't do anything except spread.

Got it! Thank you.

Hello again!

I swear I do searches before asking all these questions..

I'm about to take a dive into using my cyclo for the first time and am totally curious what people generally use for speeds/applications.

What are most people working at, when doing polishing/waxing/sealing? 6? 4? 2 on the edges? I really don't know, but also feel like asking a newb question is better than burning through paint...

Thanks!

*edit*

Is it comparable on a flex?

1) Interior (before you get dirty and sweaty from washing the car)

2) Clean wheels/Tires/Wheel wells

3) Strip Wash

4) Door Jambs

5) Clay

6) Dress Trim and tires. (I seal my wheels with some quick sealant before putting on any tire shine)

7) Mask anything that requires it (emblems, graphics, etc)

8) Polish (Panel wipe down if you feel the need)

9) Seal

10) Glaze/Wax if desired

Good point with the interior first so you're not all sweaty and gross before getting in the car. I love discussing people's "order of operations."

Your plan looks pretty good, with a few recommended tweaks...

1) STRIP Wash

1.3) DRY

1.6) DRESS plastic, rubber, trim

2) Clay + Detail Spray (Do I wash again after claying? Some do...)

2.5) You do NOT need to wash again

3) Paint Correct

3.5) ISOPROPYL WIPEDOWN

4) Seal

5) Glaze

6) Wax

7) Wheels/Windows/Trim

7.3) Doing Wheels/Windows now is fine

7.6) Trim should have been DRESSED at Step 1.6

8) Interior

8.5) Doing the Interior now is fine

 

FWIW, I posted a summary of the steps/process I follow here.

Thanks for this. One thing.. with the ISO wipedown, don't most people say to use 70%? I'm trying to remember where I read this.

Ahhh yes. Thank you both. I'm sure it lived somewhere but I never find stuff when I search.

Hey all,

I'm really creating this, just so I don't need to keep trying to remember and can quickly reference it.

A general detailing order of operations would look as follows, correct? If not, please edit and I'll update..

1) Wash

2) Clay + Detail Spray (Do I wash again after claying? Some do...)

3) Paint Correct

4) Seal

5) Glaze

6) Wax

7) Wheels/Windows/Trim

8) Interior

A few could be moved, but I'm totally spacing on steps 4-6.. I think that's the way, but forgot if it's seal first, glaze first...

I had a bottle of SVRT turn from a cream to a very runny liquid because it was exposed to triple digit temps in my storage shed in the summer. I don't have a garage, I have a small storage shed/ storage room attached to the back of my house that I store tools and lawn equipment in. I stored my detailing supplies in there too until I learned that they can be affected by temperature extremes. I now keep them in my living room behind the couch in plastic storage bins. I have the couches about two feet from the walls because they have built in recliners. The storage totes tuck nicely behind the couches on the floor and do not affect the recliner movement

I may do exactly that!