JDrach

I accidentally left some LPS, buttery wax, and a bottle of jax chery wax in the car over the past week. It seems a little more watery than normal and I've been shaking it to try to mix it all back together. I heard of refrigerating waxes, mostly paste wax, to help get the wax back together. Is there anything I can do to make sure everything didn't separate?

Beading after LPS

I worked on those packaged trucks. They're just vinyl stripes, not real carbon fiber.

I do believe this was after previous said detail job or shortly after.

By far my favorite wax to use, so easy and shines great. Only con is that it doesn't seem to last long at all. Car was clayed, the threw on some H20 GG, followed by buttery wax. I've waxed it twice in a month since then and the beading doesn't seem to last on. Definitely shines great and therapeutic lol

Hi all. I know there's a lot of sealants out there and such. I was wondering how people like adams sealants opposed to others, preferably Chemical Guy's Jetseal. I ask this because my shop likes to recommend this and was curious on how it holds up to adams, if anyone has used both.

I will say that I did polish by hand with ultimate compound and wax. The white faded look did go away some and color seemed to blend in more around the area. And it is plastic bumper so I wondered how that played into the deterioration of the colored paint and clear coat compared to metal surface

Yea I guess I'll have to either cover it in clear coat or just wax/seal it very often so it doesn't worsen too quickly. Or so I hope.

Oh no, then probably should just mask it off and clear coat it some instead of going over it with a polisher then.

Picture. Car is a little dusty.

On my car there's some fading of the clear coat. I was wondering what the paint correcting polish and orange microfiber might do to this? This is probably the worst area of the car aside from deeper scratches that polishing won't get out. Thanks guys

So I saw a video removing those hard to remove iron deposits or rail dust that is contaminating the paint of adams Suva. So I would assume it would strip any formuha@purduecal.edu of protection on it. It won't hurt the paint as long as it's on a cool surface and the cleaner doesn't dry. I wonder if this completely removes the need for claybar if it breaks down contaminants so easily. My guess is that if the car in need of a clay bar, the finish will still feel gritry, but the rail dust, fall-out, iron deposits will be eaten away. Thoughts?

Ya my first experience was with a rotary. It takes practice to get the correct speed of your passes down since they whip around so quickly. We got good results on a corner of his hood and left the rest of his hood untouched (for practice) so I haven't caused damaged to his, or my entire hood. But I feel something cheap like the PC will get the job done with the correct pads and polishes and will be easier to maneuver and reach certain spots easier unlike the bulk rotary.

I have access to a rotary buffer at my work. I was wondering, with the corresponding pads and polishes, if a paint correction would be doable with a rotary buffer. Since they generate a lot of speed/heat. I've use the buffer before on my car with an unknown foam pad and Meguires Ultimate Compound/Polish and yield results without holograms/burning the paint.

I get the point how 16 Oz bottles are optimal for multiple uses, more vehicles, or to last longer. I was thinking in terms of a LPS, or buttery wax, tire shine, anything really; for those applications where a person is only applying such products meant to last maybe 2-3 times a year for their own vehicle instead of a detailing business. Where I see 16 Oz and gallon jugs optimal. Just a thought.

With the release of the select few new 8 oz products, would any one else like to have more products available in various sizes? I feel like some products, I wouldn't mind picking up an 8 oz of the product oppose to lets say 16 oz's. The option would be nice I think, and also offer lower price for products that may not see a lot of use. This would all vary on the person and how often the product is used by such person.

Try using some 00 grade steel wool and all purpose cleaner. I use that to Polish off the soot buildup on my dual chrome exhaust tips and works great.

I used it on the hood of my car and didnt end up with holograms or burning the paint. I did see some results, but Im sure the unknown random foam pad could have held me back in results.

My question is: Should I attempt the 2 step process with the Orange and White pad on the rotatory or shell out some cash for a PC? All these products will add up, and the PC is around 150$ alone.

If the american wax is like 30$ more than buttery and lasts just as long and provides a better shine, I might just pick that up instead. I love detailing so I wouldn't mind applying every month or so. But I will have to polish the car then... I have access to a rotatory buffer, so I might use that to save money. I know it's alot quicker and can heat up quickly. I did have some success with an unknown foam pad and meguires ultimate compound/polish. Thinking of either doing the 2 step paint correction with the same rotatory buffer and correct pads, or doing it by hand with the ez grip pads.

Yea it would all depend on how much paint correction I need in the first place. I guess I was just a little upset over the quality of jax wax that I'm unsure on how much of a shine the buttery wax will give. I will for sure want to use brilliant glaze and a sealant, but want to correct the paint first.

So the car still beaded up and shines great. Actually kept using the tire shine, I think I use it so I can smell it So the company Jax Wax has a local dealer, after much of a headache and running around the region, I bought their liquid jax wax cherry wax. To say the least, I wasn't impressed. The H20 G&G left more of a shine to the paint as well as a smoothness to it. The cherry wax just didn't add much shine or anything to it. Thinking of trying adams buttery wax...I'm not 100% sure which would be best for the blue paint. I do know it needs to be polished for it has some fine swirls (not horrific, but they're there) and would really want this blue to pop again so I can properly take care of the paint afterwards. Any input?

I saw one come in. I dont know how they drive compared to the regular gasoline Canyons/Colorados, but I'm around them alot at work and do love them. Only had 1 diesel come in so far.

I'll have to give it another whirl with the tire shine. Might as well since i have the sample. At my work we have this blue tire shine/dressing. I believe its silicone based but man does it make the tire SHINE. It stays on forever through all the weather and rain and even still feels greasy the next day lol. Not my type of shine, but the longevity of it is unreal. Also re washed the car today and beaded up nice and still shines just as good. Unsure if it's the H2O GG at work still or what but i'm loving it.