flyboy9994

OK great. Do you remember what kind of lag screw sleeves? Are they plastic or metal? Were you able to use a regular drill with a masonary drill bit? Just don't want to mess up the brick on my new house! Thanks again.

I recently installed a Strongway hose reel. Very sturdy. I am using a Craftsman 75' black rubber hose and thumb-lever Gilmour nozzle.

Hey Chris

How is it holding up mounted to the brick? I need to attach mine to a brick wall also. Could you explain how you mounted yours? Thanks.

I use it because I have a crew cab long bed 3/4 ton truck that takes some time to get through a full wash so by the end, the soap has settled some and becomes less 'slick'.  The Rinseless Wash adds a lot of lubricity and keeps the Wash Pads gliding across the paint very well.  Also, Car Shampoo does not contain any wax additives but the Rinseless Wash does so even after washing it leaves behind a finish already similar to finishing with detail spray.  

 

I also use a variety of Rinseless Wash dilutions for pre-soak treatment, waterless wash spray, and clay lube.  Rinseless wash is a very versatile product and I use it for just about everything but actually Rinseless Washing the truck.

 

Check out the file I have attached for some useful dilutions with Rinseless Wash and I think you will be happy with it's performance.  It can really go a long way and is a very cost effective product.

Now that's some good stuff right there! Awesome. Very much appreciated.

Dang that's beautiful. Here's my 2014 Street Glide Special. She's getting a full detail with Adam's very soon!

I still use detail spray even when I use H2O.

Used as the final step after H2O, it takes care of any streaks etc. I might have left behind with the H2O. Plus I just love to use the stuff anyway!

I love my trim and lug nut brush. Mine seems very durable. I actually use it to apply tire shine on my tires. The foam block doesn't really work to well on my truck tires. I'm pretty rough on it and it has lasted me a year and is still in great shape.

Another awesome idea. Definitely going to try that. Thanks!

Hey all, OP here.

Promise this isn't a rant or a complaint. More of an inquiry. If a few bristles fall out when the brush is new then no big deal. I'll continue to use it and if it get's to the point where it's obvious the brush is defective then I have no problem with contacting Adams customer service. Just got a little concerned when a decent size clump came out the last time I used it.

Basically just asking if this is normal and if so then no big deal. I'm certainly not bashing and I use nothing but Adams and am constantly amazed at how great these products are. Lifelong customer here for sure!

The Adams mints are sooooooo goooooood! I ate them all before i could even finish unpacking the box. LOL. I wish they would sell these things. Anyone know where you can get these mints from?

Yeah... Mine are usually gone before I pull the last bottle out of the box. Yum!

Anyone else having issues with the trim and lug nut brush? I only use them with Adams products i.e. shampoo and APC etc. Only used a few times and only on the lug nuts so far and I'm not scrubbing hard at all.

Anyway, a lot of the bristles are falling out with every use. I even had a large clump come out of one the last time I used it. It's still working but at this rate won't last much longer.

Perfectly normal. Just make sure you shake it REALLY well before filling your 16oz back up.

 

I also like to spray all remaining product back into the bottle after use. This will keep your spray head from clogging up and not separating in the draw tube. 

 

Shake real well before use. 

Now that's a great idea! Thanks.

report back if you beat my wife to it.

I will but I'm out of state working right now so I won't get to try it for another week or so. Let us know how it works if your wife tries it out please? I can definitely see it working really well. I swear that stuff is magic!

Sorry for the hijack OP. Please let us know how it works on big screen TV too please? Thanks.

Stainless steel appliances? Freakin genius. Can't wait to try that. Thanks.

So i plan on applying it every 2 or 3 weeks because it is a daily driver and it's always outside. Does that seem like an overkill?

You'll notice it start to wear off when it stops beading when you wash/rinse. I would say every 2 to 3 weeks would be OK. I used it two washes in a row to build a good base and now it's about once a month before I reapply. Again, just depends on your driving conditions and environment/weather as to how long it will last.

Also, I found these towels are perfect for applying H2O as it has a tendency to stain lighter colored towels. I usually use 1 wet to apply the H2O as you dry your car and the other to final dry/polish.

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/microfiber-towels/adam-s-borderless-gray-towel-2-pack.html

You really need to try this product. It's absolutely amazing! It's so glossy when I'm done I've pretty much given up on waxing altogether. Some do wax on top of H2O just to add a little extra pop but I find it pretty much good to go especially for a daily driver. I believe the standard answer is that it should last a few weeks to a month. Depends on your conditions, environment etc. I'm really addicted to this stuff and it's so damn easy to use. Just my opinion. Enjoy!

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

I'm going to put a drop on a piece of glass tonight then add a drop of water and just let it sit and see what happens. 

Interesting. Please post your findings. I'm thinking G&G won't play well if mixed in water before applying.

Who knows, I've seen stranger things happen. Might work great!

After claying, I use a rinse then a strip wash to remove the residue.

 

The clay bar is not magic, it does not remove 100% of the contaminates from the surface like some sort of magnet. A good portion of the bonded contaminates will stick to the clay bar, but some and possibly a lot can just get knocked loose by the clay and remain on the surface.

 

If you then removed the residue with a towel, these containments could possibly scratch the paint. If you did wipe the residue with the towel, and some contaminates in the residue got into your towel, you might get scratches and you might not, but if you are going to machine polish anyway, then it might not be a big deal to wipe the residue with a towel.

 

However, I do think that polishing with a machine directly over the residue is a bad idea. Any loose contaminates on the surface can get into the pad and cause a lot of damage. Any stray containments in the residue, that did not stick to the clay bar, would then get into the pad and get worked 100,000+ times over your paint, and you may end up with more clear coat damage than you had to begin with.

 

For me, a quick rinse and wash is cheap insurance, and takes much less time than having to fix damage to the paint after you polish. If you don't want to take the time to wash, then at least wipe the residue away before polishing. Plus, the clay residue will clog your pads and make them less effective.

Yeah. This was my thoughts exactly so I'll just give it another wash afterwards to float all the gunk away. Even though this is a new car, the paint is definitely rough with imbedded particles and I'm certain the clay bar will leave some behind.

Also, I'm not going to machine polish this time. Paint is in pretty good shape otherwise so I'm going to try and hand polish with Revive. Still going to wash afterwards for extra insurance. Thanks everyone. Write up with pics to follow.

Well, I'm finally getting ready for a full correction this coming weekend. My only question left is what to do after claying. Do I wipe up the detail spray and clay residue as I go or should I clay the whole car and then re-wash and dry before using polish?

I'm going to use Revive Hand Polish with the blue hand applicator, Brilliant Glaze then Liquid Paint Sealant. Maybe a coat of wax. Thanks.

That is correct, let me know how it goes.

For sure. Finally going to get a full correction done this coming weekend. I'll post a write up with the techniques described above. Thanks again.

Thanks Dan

Could we please stay logged in longer when on the store website? I often go back and forth from the forum to the store to compare products and it's extremely annoying to have to log back in every few minutes to add items to my wish list. Thanks.

I also apply BG over PF or PC polish residue and wipe both off at the same time, the residue wipes off way easier that way.

Over the polish residue? Sweet. That's going to save a ton of work for sure. So after clay, I'm going to use Revive hand polish. So leave the residue and apply Brilliant Glaze over that then wipe everything off. Liquid Paint Sealant to follow all that.

Sorry for the hijack... Really good info here.

I also did this and the shine and filling of the Brilliant Glaze under Liquid Paint Sealant is phenomenal.

Brilliant Glaze UNDER Liquid Paint Sealant? Awesome idea. Going to try that for sure!

The microfiber pad is the most aggressive cutting pad and he stepped down to the plain orange cutting pad which would be one step less aggressive. This should in concept remove or greatly reduce the heavy swirl introduced by the microfiber pad.

Is this a daily driver? If so you may want to consider the liquid paint sealer after your last polish.