avimore

Thanks for doing this Chris

Out of curiosity, how long did you let it cure before applying Wheel Cleaner?  I'm assuming you only put one coat of Paint Sealant?

Thanks.

I remove as much water as possible by sheeting (which will be easier if you have a coat of sealant on) and then blow dry water out the cracks and crevices.  This usually leaves very little residual water, which I then dry with Detail Spray and a microfiber.

Thanks for all the information guys!

Can I wash them for their first time by hand? or with other towels? I don't want to wash just 2 towels in the machine lol

Would also like to know the best way to wash these by hand before first use.

Thanks.

I've heard some say that washing them first reduces lint issues and others say that it's not needed.

I'm getting my first shipment of multiple microfiber towels soon (drying towel, glass, single softs, borderless grey, waterless) and wanted to know if it's necessary to wash them first.

If so, I'm assuming that a complete cycle in the washing machine is overkill as the towels will not be dirty.  So maybe a quick hand-wash/soak in a bucket with a squirt of APC or Microfiber Revitalizer, rinse well and then hang them to dry?

Thanks.

Thanks guys, good to know I can use Glass Cleaner over H2O G&G.

Glass Sealant then H20 G&G, then Glass Cleaner when needed.

 

I hardly ever use wipers.

 

Key point, make sure your glass is stripped CLEAN. Might take 4-5 clay bar attempts. Use water to clay glass, not detail spray. Glass doesn't need lubricant like paint does - it's MUCH harder than clearcoat!

Interesting idea on using water as a lubricant, will give that a try.  Do you just use the leftover water from the wash, or do you need to mist water on the glass before you clay?

What about using Glass Cleaner as a lubricant for claying glass?  I think I remember seeing Adam doing this on one of his videos.  

Thanks Ed, I'm glad you found the info here useful.

 

While you could use Waterless Wash instead of Rinseless Wash for the pre-soak, it would get really expensive. I typically use the full liter of solution for a front-end pre-soak, so using straight Waterless Wash with some Car Wash Shampoo mixed in would be costly.

 

The Rinseless Wash is a concentrate, so just a few ounces of it with a few ounces of Car Wash Shampoo mixed in with a liter of water is pretty cheap.

 

If you tried to dilute the Waterless Wash with water the same way, it would not be effective.

Ok great, I understand now.  I wasn't aware that Rinseless is a concentrate, which makes sense on why you only have to use a few ounces mixed with CWS and water.

Thanks for the info!

Hi, wondering if I should clean all the exterior glass with Adam's Glass Cleaner after applying H2O G&G?

I'm thinking that this is an unnecessary step as doing so will strip the H2O protection, but just wanted to check.

Thanks.

Hey Dan, new to detailing and just finished reading your entire thread... WOW!

Thanks for all the hard work you put into these write-ups.

I have a question about the Rinseless Wash/Car Wash Shampoo mixture you use in the Venus spray bottle...  I'm wondering if this mixture would also work by using Waterless Wash instead of Rinseless Wash?  Or is there a specific reason why you use Rinseless?

Thanks.

Yes its a tough enough material - honestly though I would just use a scrub brush - something like a fender brush which has stiff bristles, to loosen up the gunk

 

They sell a brush like this in Home Depot

Yeah I was thinking the same, but a lowered car makes it tough to get the thicker fender brush handle inside to reach and clean the wheel well.  So I'm hoping the thinner wheel woolie handle along with the angled design will make this much easier.

Ed, 

 

The "between details" drying method is just a fast way to dry your car off effectively. Detail spraying the whole vehicle adds lubrication so when you go to wipe it off, there is detail on the vehicle already so you won't scratch it as much as you would without the detail spray. 

 

If you want to use H2O as your drying method then I would do that. In fact, here is how I dry my BLACK car off all the time. Once I'm done washing, I will H2O the whole vehicle and then I would take my sidekick and blow all the cracks and possible dirt could come out, on a black car you can't see the dirt very well so I would take precaution in wiping off the rest of the vehicle after this point. I now spray one panel with detail spray and wipe it off in the same direction, from left to right, with one side. Then, I flip the towel over and wipe off any detail spray that I missed. This method I have found is the safest method I have used drying and trust me, I know when my car gets scratched and I haven't had problems in months with this method so give it a shot and let me know how that works for you! 

Thanks Tyler and everyone else for the responses.

Really good information for something that can be easily overlooked.

VRT applied with a lug nut brush. Of course the lug nut brush should just be used for VRT.

Great idea!

^^I was thinking about doing the same thing due to a lowered car. 

Is the woolie tough enough to clean the liner material in the wheel well that looks like felt?  The fender brush will not be able to reach there and I wouldn't want to damage the wheel woolie.

Thanks for the great info!  The residual dirt being blown out of the cracks definitely makes sense.  Although if it makes sense for the H2O drying method, I'm assuming it should also apply to the Detail Spray drying method?

I just finished watching a video on the Adam's website called 'Safe Drying' where Adam dries a Yukon and calls it a 'between details' dry using Detail Spray and a Great White drying towel.  After a wash, he sprays DS all over the vehicle and then uses the Master Blaster to remove all the excess water out of the mirrors, cracks etc.  After drying with the MB he dries the entire vehicle with the GW drying towel.

Guess the Adams team doesn't think residual dirt being blown out is much of an issue?

Would be great to get some input from the guys at Adams on this.

Just to clarify, I didn't mean that I wanted to dry the whole car with the Sidekick first, just the excess water that pools in the side mirrors/cracks/wheels etc.

Hi, wondering if it's best to dry the excess water with the Sidekick before applying G&G, or should I first apply G&G and then dry the excess water?

Also, do you apply G&G to the door jambs?

Thanks.

Thanks guys, great info.

Good to know.  Thank you all for the responses.

Hi, I recently saw an Adam's video where they first clayed the paint only, applied a layer of LPS and then clayed/sealed the glass as one of the last steps in the detail.

Is there a reason why the glass was clayed/sealed until the end?

I was thinking it would be easier to clay the paint and glass at the same time, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks.

Hi, new to detailing and wanted to know what the best applicator is to apply LPS by hand?

I have seen a video where Adam applies LPS with the Red Hex Grip Applicator but I have also seen the Blue Microfiber Applicator being used.

Is one easier to use than the other?  Pros and Cons?

It appears that the Red Hex applicator would be easier to clean/maintain, but I am new to all this so looking for some guidance.

Thanks.

^Thanks, that's great to know!

Thanks great info!   Just curious on how long you let the glass sealant cure before removing it?

Hey guys, I read above that some of you spray your dirty microfiber towels with Revitalizer before throwing them into the hamper where they will sit for a few weeks.  Just interested in knowing how the towels come up after weeks laying in the hamper and how the Revitalizer reacts on them?  Do the towels end up being crusty when you take them out of the hamper? 

Thanks.