dg150

You might try the glaze. Sometimes that can level it out. I've actually started just applying it to a microfiber them spreading it on the paint followed quickly by a dry microfiber to buff it off. 

I've never used ceramic boost as a drying aid but the old formula would leave "high" spots if you didn't buff it off good enough. Did you go back over it with a dry microfiber when after you dried each section? 

To remove it you could try the glaze again. If that doesn't work you may have to hit it with polish or wait for it to run through its life cycle, which if she's angry might not be an option. Haha With ceramic based products chemicals aren't always enough to remove the high spots. 

What kind of life are you guys getting out of the ceramic spray coating?

I applied 2 coats of it 2 weeks ago. I did a decon was, clay bar, polish, prep wipe down before. I applied 1 coat that night and then a second coat the next morning. I sprayed the product into a microfiber then applied it to the paint in a crosshatch pattern. I let it sit on the paint for a minimum of 2 minutes before removing. 

Since then it has rain several times and I just got to wash it today. The upper panels still beaded great but from about the door handles down it was like there was nothing there. I thought maybe it was just road film so I tried mixing some citrus cleaner with my car shampoo. Same results after that. Next I tried a light clay on a small section but still flat water behavior. 

I'm not bashing the product but I'm curious if anyone else has had similar results or if anyone has some tips for getting more life out of it? I wanted to try it as a stand alone to see the life of it and was planning on doing ceramic boost after the wash today but now I'm thinking about redoing the ceramic spray. 

One of my vehicles is coated and I was planning on doing my truck soon. I don't have very good luck with wax on my truck. The tires stick out past the fenders so every time it rains or snows I'm throwing stuff down the side of my truck. Most waxes and sealants last only a couple rains/ snows for me. 

Here are some pictures

I have a container of Patriot Wax. I've used it on my hood and front fenders once. Tub is still basically full. All i have is daily drivers now so I don't really have a need for the Patriot. 

Willing to trade for any ceramic line of products, detailing tools or pressure washer attachments. 

I got my 16 oz bottle yesterday. I ordered it last Monday. Now I just have to wait for it to warm up and stop snowing. 

9 hours ago, LSX Maestro said:

On the up front, why is the new H2O GG any better or worse than Ceramic Boost 2.0 if both are used as a stand alone or topper for a Sealant/Coating? 

 

One of the main differences is how they are applied. H20 can be used while drying a vehicle. It saves time by being able to apply as you dry vs going back over the entire vehicle once it is dry with CB. 

So if I were just washing and wanting to add some protection I would probably use H20 as I was drying. If I had clay barred or done some sort of decon and had a dry vehicle I would go with the CB. 

When using it on trim do you just apply it with the microfiber and call it good, or do you wipe it off like on the paint? 

The video of the bed liner it looks like they just wipe it on and leave it. 

I agree with the guys that are saying it's the cost per application. An example of this would be if I'm using the product on my vehicle or someone else's. If someone brings me a vehicle to detail and they are the type that just runs them through an automatic car wash I'm not going to apply the spray coating to it. The amount of swirls they will have in the paint by the time it is worn off would not be worth it. They also wouldn't want to pay the extra money for it. For someone like that I'm likely to just use H20, or paint sealant and VRT on it. For my wife's car I would be more likely to use a coating on it. I do the maintenance washes on it and it stays fairly clean. I don't spend as much time on it as I do my truck so something that would make it easier to clean and not having to polish and seal every 6 months would be nice. For my truck I would probably choose the spray coating. I want good protection and easy cleaning between details. I do end up with some paint overspray on it at work so the cheaper spray coating that last 6 months would be better than the more expensive regular coating that would last years. I most likely wouldn't get that out of it since I have to regularly clay it and sometime polish to remove marring. On my GTO that sits in garage most of the time and is only out on nice days I use higher end waxes. So even though there are redundancies in some of the products they all do have there place. 

That is true. I typically don't get too long of life out of any sealants. The tires on my truck stick out past the fenders so I get a lot of road grime thrown up on the side of my truck. It tends to eat the sealants off pretty quick. Hopefully the ceramic spray will hold up better to the abuse. I can't wait to start seeing some reviews on it.

What is the advantage to this compared to paint sealant? The longevity is about the same but the price of the ceramic spray is a lot higher. 

The wash and clay are a good start. You could possibly add in an iron remover to help break down some the contaminates. The 1 step polish has some sealant in it. I believe it doesn't last as long as the regular sealant. I would think you'd be better off using the fine polish then going over it with the paint sealant. If you were to apply the paint sealant over the 1 step then the paint sealant wouldn't last as long due to it not being bonded straight to the clear coat. Another option would be to use the 1 step then wipe the paint down with alcohol to remove the protection left behind by it and then apply the sealant. 

I got a ceramic coating kit for Christmas. I plan on putting it on my truck this spring. The thing I'm concerned about is I tend to get overspray on my truck at work. We have a paint booth we use daily to paint large equipment. I'm not sure why but no matter how often we change the filters we get paint blowing out our exhaust stacks and onto the cars in the parking lot. To deal with the overspray I have to clay my truck pretty often. 

Will the ceramic coating help the paint to not stick to my truck? I'm worried that if I have to clay the ceramic coating every couple weeks it will damage or scratch it. 

16 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Since you aren't seeing much water beading, I'm wondering if the sealant you used bonded properly. Not to pick on you at all, but is it possible you didn't seal the entire car...forgetting the lower portion? I ask because RW on a sealed car works really well and I've not seen the film you mention even after CO snow storms. Maybe it's your RW method...how do you do it?

 

Yes, clay might remove, or at the very least weaken it. I was just wondering because it might also help remove whatever grime was on the car. And if you're gonna use the APC, that would also remove/weaken the sealant.

Before I sealed my truck I strip washed, clayed, polished, and then wiped it down with alcohol. I applied the sealant by machine. I made sure everything was evenly coated. The tires on my truck stick out past the fenders so I do end up throwing a lot of stuff down the side of my truck when it snows/rains. 

My rinseless process is as follows. I go to the pay and spray and rinse the truck off. I follow the regular rinse with the nonspot rinse. I then drive home, about 15 minutes on the highway. That gets most of the water off of the truck. I then use my sidekick to blow off any extra water. I spray each panel down with rinseless mixed a waterless wash strength. I let that sit on the panel a couple minutes then do the rinseless and dry it. 

35 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

Hmm. What protection do you have on it now? How long ago was it applied? Have you tried to clay it?

I used a liquid paint sealant. I applied it about 6 weeks ago. I haven't clayed it. I figured that would completely remove it. 

2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

I'll offer a different point of view. In my mind, using a pay and spray is only meant to get off the caked-on crud. Any residual film or leftover dirt from there can be removed safely with the rinseless wash alone. As you're aware, even diluted APC will weaken or possibly remove sealant or wax. It's the same premise as adding a couple ounces to a wash bucket for a strip wash, only on a smaller scale. In other words, any protection you add could be removed, so you're basically wasting product however often you use that process.

 

I recommend you spray off most crud at the wash first. Then, at home, pretreat with diluted RW 16:1 and do the RW. No impact on your sealant/wax that way, and no wasted product. 

 

My two cents.

 

 

So what you are recommending is what I've been doing. Even after that I'm left with some road grime/residue from about the midpoint of my door down and there's buildup on my lower panel by my exhaust. It rained the other day and my truck was "clean" before it rained. When I looked at the truck the lower half wasn't beading and had almost an oily look to it. 

41 minutes ago, cwp2016nd said:

I've done it many times. 

 

A better solution would be to spray the panel down with your APC and THEN rinse it down at the pay and spray. The stuck on crud will come off much easier that way in my experience. 

I also considered doing that. I just assumed doing it right before the rinseless would maybe work better. Doing the rinseless would agitate it compared to just rinsing it off. Maybe i will try doing it before the spray and pay and see if it works that way. Also if the APC is diluted, say 1:5 with distilled water, any ideas on how much damage will be done to my sealant? 

I've recently switched to doing rinseless washing due to the cold weather. I've only done the method a couple times but I think it's my new favorite way to wash. I have been stopping by the pay and spray on my way home and just rinsing the chunks of salt off before doing the rinseless. My only complaint is that it doesn't seem to get all of the road film off of my truck. I was wondering if it would be ok if every couple washes to "pretreat" the area with some diluted APC? I would let that sit for about a minute then give it a spray with waterless mixture and then do my rinseless. I know doing this will probably be hard on my sealant but plan on doing a spray wax after. My only concern is not being able to get all of the APC off with the rinseless. 

Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.  

Sounds good. Thanks for the advice. I do like how well the soap at the carwash takes everything off the paint without having to touch it but obviously if it's strong enough to take all the dirt and bugs off it will also take the sealant off.

So I'm going to be out of town for over a month. I don't think I can go that long without washing my truck. If I use a pay and spray car wash how much damage will it do to my sealant? I just did a full detail and applied the new paint sealant to my truck. Will the soap at the car wash reduce the life of the sealant?

I have them all over my lighting blue F150. They aren't that big but I have 3-5 on every panel. Annoying but I'm afraid to try to remove them. Don't want a bunch of paint chips. I took it to the dealer so they could document them in case the start flaking.

Thanks for the replies. I will try the plastic toothpick or blade. 

I have a nice white ring around my FX4 decal on the bed of my truck. What is the best way to get rid of/remove the residue? I plan on doing a full detail on my truck soon so I'm sure the alcohol wipe down after polishing will remove most of the old but I don't want to get more in there next time.

First rain after H2O Guard & Gloss