Steveinnorthglenn

After doing some deeper searching, the answer is found here:

https://www.adamsforums.com/topic/38489-blog-graphene-ceramic-coating%E2%84%A2-explained/?do=findComment&comment=585941

It appears that the ceramic spray coating needs to be removed via machine polishing with a white pad and polish so that the traditional ceramic coating can bond to a unadulterated surface. 

Can traditional ceramic coating (I.e., Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating) be applied on top of Advanced Graphene Spray Coating?
 

I spent the last month of nights and weekends detailing the heck out of my paint. It looks practically flawless and I’m really proud of it. 

I decided to seal the paint with the spray coating because I wasn’t sure I would be able to apply the traditional coating in a 40°F garage- but I wanted some effective protection for the rest of winter. 
 

I expect that I will want to use a traditional 10-year coating on the car when the weather warms up and I feel more comfortable applying it (and have more daylight). At that time, I expect some re-polishing will need to occur but I assume there will be some spray coating that remains after a light polishing. 
 

Assuming there is some spray coating left in corners and crevices, will the traditional coating play nicely with those spots? Or should I plan to spend a few days polishing away all of the spray coating before applying the new coating?

And for the record, here’s my b-pillar. Hit it many times with the SK micro on speed 6. Compound + blue pad for the first few passes, then switched to polish + white pad for several passes. This car is 12 years old… 

Thank you for the guidance. I hit the lights with Adam’s polish, a white pad on my SK micro on speed 4. I worked the polish with light pressure (maybe a half-pound, the pad was barely squishing) until the polish was diminished. 2x passes and the result is almost perfect. I’m going to hit it one more time before I wipe it down and ceramic coat it. 

I’m working on my BMW- and I’ve polished the heck out of everything. It’s shining like new, but I’m struggling with the tail lights. 
 

I am using Novus plastic polish, my SK Micro, and a white polishing pad. Polished like 4x and still have noticeable spider webs. 
 

Adam’s compound and polish did a miracle job on the piano black plastic trim (windows and b-pillars) so I’m considering using these products on the tail light lenses. 
 

I’m hesitant because the dang tail lights are expensive it I botch them. 
 

Should I use Adam’s  compound and polish on the tail lights?

Thanks for the reply! I polished the jambs where there was clearcoat with the micro polisher, polish, and the rotary head. I did what you suggested and wiped the non-clear coated areas with detailer spray and a clay bar, but no polish. Then I used spray ceramic coating on all surfaces. We’ll see how it goes!

Hello!

Quick question. I’m detailing my car. Is it acceptable to use polish on the non-clearcoated, but painted crevices of the car?

I’m looking at my boot lid and gutter. The paint is not clear coated, but I want to protect it with a treatment. The only product I have on-hand is Buttery Wax, ceramic spray, compound, and polish. I’m trying to decide how crazy I need to get with these non-clearcoated surfaces. My hunch is that wax is acceptable, though maybe pointless, and polish is not recommended. 
 

How do detailers treat these areas? See pic attached.