cammyfive

Looks to be back to its normal 100% liquid state.

That's the plan. Hopefully it'll be thawed out later tonight as I'd like to try it out tomorrow.

It's been in the 20s for a few days and I noticed when I unpacked my Adams order today that the bottle of Rinseless Wash was partially frozen. Will it be safe to use once it thaws?

Of course they are painfully obvious to the naked eye but very difficult to capture with a camera.....

3 week old Patriot wax on a 2009 Acura TSX.

I don't believe so. Which specific pad would you recommend? Also, would it be adviseable to do the hood and roof in their entirety with the 4" Focus pads?

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow of the etching, it's been raining and nasty here the last couple of days.

Just a teaser of the gorgeous metallic flakes in the paint along the side panels

A couple of weeks ago, another member of the forums here (also an Adams dealer) took me under his wing and tutored me on machine polishing for the very first time (used the Flex). It was very rewarding and following his lead we got 95% of the zillions of swirls out and the blue metallic in the paint absolutely pops now coated with Patriot. The only nagging issue that remains is what appears to be acid rain or water spot etching on the hood and roof, not isolated but pretty much covering them consistently. We started out using the Flex with the orange Microfiber pad and Paint Correcting Polish #1 but actually had much better results doing a one stage with the white foam pad and just Paint Finishing Polish #2 after fighting with the first step for an hour or so. My questions are these.... 1) Now, with the Acura paints being quite soft, is there a recommendation as to a specific polisher/pad/product combo to try to remove the etching? I'd like to try a recommendation like that before going to wet sanding. 2) If wet sanding is the only option to remove the etching (he'll be doing that as I have zero experience) what products/pads will be needed afterwards to polish the sanding marks out?

Weird. I thought Adams C&U cleaner was designed not to foam up.

I have some Adams C&U Cleaner with the carpet brush that should be here mid to late week just in time for me spending a full day detailing my Acura TSX (2009 with 59k miles). One of my goals is getting the carpet back to brand new condition. Now, of the few passengers I've had in my car they all say "wow, this is so clean" but I'm talking to you guys bc you probably feel my pain with OCD. Haha. My main issue with the carpet is getting 100% of the soapy cleaner the dealership probably used out of it and making it truly "fresh" again. My plan is a very thorough vaccuum and then spraying liberal amounts of Adams C&U cleaner and scrubbing by hand with the carpet brush. At that point I want to get as much dirt out as possible so would it be best to use a Bissell Little Green Clean Machine with hot water to extract/freshen or a true "steamer" like the McCulloch MC-1275 steamer to get the last reside out?? At this point I don't want to exceed the $100ish price range as I've spent over a $1000 on Adams products and services ???????? Thanks for all the input in advance!!

Would that same combo of 10:1 APC work on the dash/center console plastics too?

I always feel dumb asking this but want to make sure I get it right, 10 parts straight APC for every 1 part water?

A few weeks ago, after buying my '09 Acura TSX from the dealership, I began the process of detailing the interior with the Adams Leather Cleaner & Conditioner I bought. The black leather seats are in "good" shape as they aren't cracked or torn but I wanted to clean/condition them for a soft/matte/new finish since the dealership apparently slathered the whole interior in ArmorAll!! I got mixed results and I think I applied too much conditioner as the seats looked blotchy afterwards. I've read some of you guys use the conditioner applied by your hands....how much does it typically take to do a normal seat? Also, as far as using the leather cleaner and conditioner on the interior (soft and hard plastics) is it safe to use it with the horse hair brush to really get them super clean and get the dealership armor all off? Any help would be appreciated as far as advice with this Adams product as my first try was kinda frustrating. To help, this is (part of) what I orderd and should be here Tuesday. *Adams Leather Cleaner/Conditioner Kit (already have) *Adams Utility Towels (5) *Adams Carper Cleaner w/scrub brush *Adams Glass Cleaner w/ glass towels *Adams Single Soft MF towels (already have)

I REALLY want one of these but after remembering the fact that with the 2 day full paint correction/Patriot Wax detail of my car and ordering all of my basis wash supplies here with gallon refills I've spent over $1000 or so on car appearance related purchases in the month of June!! I'll probably put this on my wish list for 'end of summer' purchases.

I'm starting to get the knack of this so I need some advice to further hone my skills.... I've been using TID on a weekly basis on my Veloster interior with great results during my weekly wash routine. I would like to add just a LITTLE gloss to the dash/doors/center console so I'm wondering if any of you have used the leather conditioner to get just a little pop to the interior after cleaning it with TID.

Just got 2 Waterless Wash Towels today and I look forward to trying them out for my final glass cleaning wipe during my next wash. Thanks!

Just got 2 Waterless Wash Towels today and I look forward to trying them out for my final glass cleaning wipe during my next wash. Thanks!

Just got 2 Waterless Wash Towels today and I look forward to trying them out for my final glass cleaning wipe during my next wash. Thanks!

I love the Adams glass cleaner and am pretty pleased with the green glass towels. My only issue with them is they seem too thin, as in when they are folded over they slip out of my hand...particularly when cleaning the inside of the windshield. Has anyone tried using a single/double soft MF for the final pass when cleaning glass?

I think my next Adams salvo will be a boatload of single and double soft MFs, MF revitalizer and maybe the Blaster Sidekick.

Good idea on the Sidekick Blaster. Drying the car isn't hard bc of the size of it and nice layer of protection but getting all the hidden spots would be nice. I also agree on a huge stock of microfibers. I need to research the main differences between the single and double soft versions. I've never been much of a fan of any waterless wash system. Prob just poor prior experiences but I'll pass. Thanks for the advice! Keep it coming!!

This is my first real forray into highline detailing products and I must say I'm loving it! Here are the Adams (and couple non-Adams) products I've amassed: *Adams car shampoo *Adams all purpose cleaner (with 1 gal refill) *Adams glass cleaner *Adams detail spray (with 1 gal refills) *Adams VRT with applicator *Adams total interior detailer (with 1 gal refill) *Poor Boys bug and tar remover *Adams wash mitts (1 large and 2 reg size) *Adams green glass microfibers (2) *Adams great white drying towel *off brand microfibers for interior cleaning *Adams wash buckets with grit guards (2) *Mothers wheel brush and tire brush A forum member with his own detailing business got my car perfect a few weeks ago with a total Adams wash/clay/polish/glaze/sealant/patriot wax so, for now, I'm looking to just keep it in top notch shape with a weekly detail and have him do what he already did ever 3-4 months until I get comfortable with a machine polisher. I'm thinking I have most of the upkeep bases covered but am trying to decide if I need anything else. I'd love to have the Master Blaster dryer but I'm still experiencing a little bit of sticker shock with it still. ????

Thanks for the great advice! Looks like the first stage was the hardest - paying for the full detail and buying all the initial products!

The car is outside pretty much all of its life, unfortunately.