Junkman2008

sandi or junkman,

Could one of u link me to the junkman

Telling me how to properly use fmp.

I have got all the swirls out of my ride

After about 8 hours of shr and pc.

The paint looks great! Now tomorrow

I'm ready for fmp. Want best results and

Depth in paint as possible for pearl white.

I thought that you had watched all my videos? My From Clay to Wax videos explain the entire process in detail. There's no difference from how you use FMP or SHR, they do what they do a little differently on different pads.

What about the junkmans home boy?

Got my new 370z and soon it will bling

With Adams products!

Sorry man, Sandra Dee-licious is all mine!

You are a winner to me, junkiebabes.....ALWAYS.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

:o

You need to edit it again, it is MSS now not MSW

Dang. Can't win for loosing!

This answers a few questions I had, thank-you.

Read my answer again. I had to edit it. I must have been half sleep when I typed it.

How do we use a discount code, and a gift certificate code?

You can use one or the other, not both.

I have purchased MF drying towels from another company that will remain nameless.

They recomended HOT wash and use the dryer. Sounds like they are out for more sales of there towels, does it not? I'll stay with woolite and the cold wash and rinse followed by a line dry.

They may just be those made in China towels that no matter how you wash them, they were never any good to begin with.

One thing I missed (or do not understand...)

You say that you apply the Sealant in thin layer(s??)?

Let it dry.. (test dryness with sweeptest?)

Whipe it of... (microfibre cloth?)

THEN let it cure for 12 - 24 hours..

and whipe it again with detail spray (dry waffleweave towel?)

 

If you want layerssss of sealent, (why the ??? would you do that? ) you could apply the next layer after the detail-spray-whipdown ? Using the same technique?

 

I always apply 1 layer sealent 1 layer wax..?

 

Also, why not let it cure first? THEN whipe the excess product off...?

Also, why detail spray and not waterless wash?

 

Concerning the wax application. The "whipe on whipe off" technique goes for every wax on the market????

I doubt that, since some waxes states on their product information that it also needs to dry... A swipetest will reveal if the wax has settled on the sealant coat.

(Adam's is not yet available in the Netherlands so I have to use different products)

 

If the rest-product of Adam's wax has dried up, why use detail spray and not the waterless wash product?? (wouldn't that compliment the wax shine?)

 

Kind regards! Mel

Okay, you've totally lost me so I'll just explain what I do again.

I apply MSW first, using a thin layer. It is a sealant and sealants need to be applied in thin layers or they act funky. Once that application is dry, I wipe it off. After allowing MSW to cure for 12-24 hours, I then come back and wipe the entire car down with Detail Spray again, to remove any build up or gassing of MSW. After that, I apply one coat of Americana. At that point I am done.

Does that answer your questions?

It's in the can. I have to edit and upload it. Right now, I'm trying to get my AC working in my car so that I can drive to Bloomington Gold Corvettes next week.

How do we apply more then 1 code?

You only get one code to use per order. If you were allowed more than one code, you could combine enough codes to get your stuff free. Now we both know that's not happening.

Bumpity.

yes i did the two bucket wash the day before and cleaned it again the next day when i went to clay bar it

Then you better hope that Adam's has a clay special because you are obviously going to need plenty of it. If you cannot flip the clay and find a clean section, it is time for another bar.

When is dirty too dirty on the clay? I did half of my hood on my tbss (never been clayed before) and to me it looked wayyy too dirty to use on the other side of the hood. At this rate I will use a couple bars on it. Am I using too much clay? I just don't want to introduce any more dirt into my paint nore do I want my bar to turn into a scratch awl.

Did you thoroughly clean your car BEFORE you started the claying process as I outlined in my paint restoration videos???

Glad you found it useful Mike.

It takes time to learn but once you master the process, you can bust out a shine like that in minutes.

So my dryer has an air dry feature, thats what I used, not heat at all. No fabric softener. Hopefully that was ok!

You're probably okay there.

I noticed my GWDT went a little gray after washing all of my MF together.. the most recent time, I washed the black utilities separate..

Which is just one reason I don't do that.

I've used the dryer too,as long as you keep it on low heat it works out fine.

Problem is, not all dryers are the same. One dryer's low heat may be another dryer's medium. I won't chance it.

... I found the paint to be INCREDIBLY smooth in some spots, but in other there were one or two little spots (like large single bumps, not patches) on the car that were still there. Should I reclay those spots or is this nature of the beast?

Everything that you do in detailing has a gauge. For clay, the gauge is the baggie test. If the gauge is showing you something, you follow the gauge. If the bag says clay, you clay. There is no second guessing the bag, or any other gauge that is used to measure whether or not something needs to be done when detailing. It is pretty much black and white and it is definitely not rocket science.

In reality, your question was answered in my first post. If you feel anything with the bag, you need to clay... period.

Yes you are!

Give me a reason Chris. Just give me a reason!

Twenty-eight years for me. Dang, we some old dogs!

Lookin' good Swabbie!

Hahaha, alright then, steering the convo a bit to the right here... regarding Bill's post.

 

I use SVRT on my interior a lot, and I've seen it remove grime that the LIC couldn't. Go figure

It's a conspiracy!

Somebody smack Bill...

 

j/k... its so unlike you to get technical AJ.

Careful, AJ has a bunch of those little guys with bats and doesn't seem afraid to use them.

Nah, I have to throw a at that one!

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like you need to develop the proper technique to ensure you don't waste clear coat when using the flex due to its added ability to generate friction/heat.

 

But I'm trying to establish if one was going to own only one machine, could the flex be used as for both "casual" polishing (one or twice a year) and "serious paint correction" when needed.

And as I explained in my videos, there's where your mindset is totally wrong. Both polishers compliment each other. If I had to choose just one, it would be the PC because it is more versatile. It may take longer to fix really bad damage but at least you can use it to do everything, including spreading wax. Not so with the Flex.

Also, you don't wait until "once or twice a year" to address your paint issues. That's like trying to save water by flushing once or twice a month. You're going to have a crap load of funk on your hands. You address damage as it happens and thus, it becomes very easy to deal with because you are always on top of it. That's what I like to call preventive maintenance. By doing so, you also perfect your technique when it comes to fixing your paint. Don't allow your paint damage to build up over time, manage it (because if you drive your car, the damage will come daily). If someone uses their polisher once or twice a year, I would question why they bought the thing in the first place. You would have been better off paying someone else to fix your paint.

For as much as the Flex cost, I would get a heck of a lot more use out of it than twice a year.

Junkman

Great video. After watching this I had a question about washing you car on road trips. Several times during the summer I take may car overnight to a weekend car show or a family event and only have access to a public self serve car wash. What tips, methods, products products do you recommend for these situations? In the Midwest I always fight bug guts on the front of the car that I don't want sit on there for a couple of days and or I may be prepping for a showing after driving one or two hundred miles. Thanks for your input.

J.

I wash my car on the road pretty much the same way I do it at home. I bring everything with me except for my car dryer. Then I'll do one of two things. At the hotel that I stay at, I get in touch with the maintenance people and find out if there is an area where I can wash my car and use their standard garden hose. If yes, I bring my foam gun. If not, I find a DIY car wash in a nice part of town and spend a couple of hours at the car wash the night I arrive. I purposely plan my trips so that I can arrive very late a day in advance. That way, I can get the car cleaned before any of the events jump off. Sometimes I'll only bring 1 bucket and get a second bucket at Wal-Mart. That bucket get's donated to the hotel maintenance department when I leave. A hotel can never have too many buckets.

You have seen how water spots are not a issue on my paint so most of the time I'll do the spot free rinse. I can smell if their mixture is good and that will eliminate me having to hand dry the car.

If the situation arises where I do not have enough room to bring everything, I'll contact someone on the forum who lives where I'm going and ask for the use of their house for a wash. People hook me up with that kind of stuff. The last option is something that I have been known to do also. Leave it dirty until I get back home.

Here's my middle of the night picture after driving through the country side of Kentucky, on my way to Paducah. I always stop at this car wash and do my middle of the night wash. They even have electricity so I can run my polisher (which I always bring along too). It's a little obsessive I know but hey, that's what I do.

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