ihaveacamaro

Welcome Ivan! I am active at both forums as well.

lol woops sorry about the unintentional snub!

Hey Ivan, Chase is on here too

hey buddy!

Son1c is on here too

Thank you. Looks like you a Camaro as well?

Yeah 2010 Aqua Blue Metallic Pre-Production... number 198! She's my baby!

I can see you feel the same way about yours

testing is continuing....

2012 2SS/RS in Victory Red.

very nice

Confused? I hope you are because now I get to explain

I took one of my tires and tested how well SVRT would stack up against itself if it was layered once, twice and thrice.

When I asked Dylan about this, here is how he responded: (Dylan I really hope you don't mind me quoting you in these reviews )

Multiple coats will shine more BUT after a few coats the additional coats don't bond, so when it gets wet you'll lose some of the additional shine.

 

Its not really designed to 'stack' though it will let you get to a few layers.

Anyways, anyone who knows me, knows that I like to do my testing... so with that said, let the testing begin!

Day 1 PREP:

Clean but undressed tire:

I'm going to use this applicator to apply the SVRT:

Day 4:

Day 11:

Day 20 Update:

NOTE: I forgot to take a picture of SVRT 3 Layers vs 2 Layers. My bad. In day 22 update, I have the full set of pictures.

Day 22 Update:

NOTE: Close-ups don't tell the whole story. It may seem very matte close up, but all the tires look very close to the below picture, which I would categorize more as a satin finish (in between matte and glossy).

car looks HOT!

What year is it?

Best practice would be to wash them seperately. However, I generally don't and since I use my MFs on a daily basis, I would know if they went bad very quickly. To date, my MFs are still chugging along

I totally forgot to mention that this is the HD model with the much longer cord that was $30 extra.

I'm may be interested. How long ago did you buy it? Everything works fine I assume? If you have any pics that would be great. Pm me what you looking to get for it. Thanks.

Only a few months; I'll put up some pics in a few minutes

LOL,, i have a midsized sedan, VW Passat. I wiped it down yesterday using the new detail spray and i had to use 5 microfiber towels and almost a half a bottle of detail spray (16oz).

 

is this the normal amount of towels required and used. i still felt paranoid wiping dirt across paint.

 

-Carl

The detail spray is meant to take off dust, not dirt, I believe.

Waterless wash is normally meant to take off light dirt

IMO, you can never use too many MF towels when you are trying to be safe

aww man I'm sorry Wish I had put it up two days ago!

Edit: This is the HD model with the much longer cord (over twice as long as a normal model) and it was $30 extra to get this feature.

A new one would be around ~150-160 for this and shipping will cost me hopefully around $20.

So how does $120 shipped to your doorstep sound?

Hey guys, I have a porter cable 7424xp with approximately ~20 hours on it.

I have everything that came with it, box, pad, dvd, wrench, backing plate, the works.

I'm not sure how much these things go for and I assume shipping will be around $20 dollars so let me know if you would be interested in buying it.

I'm not sure how much these go for so if anyone knows, let me know please

Thanks!

Believe it or not the local BMW stealership is still trying to whore out the simoniz "protection package" for an additional $1k.

you know these stories fail to surprise me anymore. Just sad stuff.

Sometimes if you have plastidip, dirt gets embedded into the dip. If that happens it takes more than just soap and water or wheel cleaner. Sometimes it takes all purpose cleaner. IMO, Adams APC should be more than enough to take out embedded dirt with a wheel brush. I have a video showing how to clean plastidippped wheels but I won't post it because it has another companies product. If you would like to see it, it's on my YouTube channel.

Have to agree on this one. That's going to take more than a hand job.

Sometimes only a hand job just doesn't do it for me

Impossible! Have you smelled this stuff?!

You get the same effect from spraying down your entire hood with waterless wash and then taking a spray of detail spray to the face.

On a totally unrelated note, I am not liable for any bodily harm that results from following my directions

Anything I'm reading on "nanoclears" really just sounds like a sealant that lasts longer.

 

To be honest there really isn't much out there. Wonder if it's a snake oil kinda thing the honda dealers are selling to make money.

Probably lol... Kind of expected out of a dealership lol

as far as curing goes, waiting 24 hours before glaze and wax can't hurt

my mistake, the glaze i know, my question was about the machine super sealant

yeah I figured that was what you were talking about. I haven't used it unfortunately, but a good place to start is by following Adam's recommendations. If you go to the product page where you can buy it, there should be a recommended method to applying it.

Corey, if what you're talking about is anything like ceramiclear on the benz, you may have to look into a polish specifically for that as that small layer of ceramiclear on top of the clear is VERY hard.

^^^thanks so much for the time!!^^ lets change your namre to ihaveashelby!!:lol:

one more question. the strip wash i want to do would combine the 2 areas i've seen here. 2oz apc/4oz car shampoo and 2 oz of dawn in a foam gun and wash bucket. is that over kill, or pure insurance that i will be completely stripped of wax?. hearing diff techniques putting on tha machine glaze, letting it sit for a few hours, removing it, then let the car sit 24 hours to cure before glaze and wax?, is that overkill?

OK you asked a few questions here, so I will try to go down in order.

1) I will be happy to take yours off your hands

2) 2 oz APC and 4 oz Car Shampoo in ~4 gallons should be more than enough to take off the wax. You don't need the dawn in the foam gun, that's overkill. Remember, both claying and polishing would also remove any remaining wax, so don't worry about it too much and just attack it!

3) Can't speak on the machine glaze, never used it sorry hopefully someone else will chime in on this for you.

Slightly off topic but has anyone had the pleasure of full paint correction of a honda with that new "nano" coating they offer may have to work one soon....wondering if its as soft as honda clear is?

 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Is that like ceramiclear on the benz?

so polish, then ipa? i guess mist it on, wipe with great wht mf, waterless wash mf, or single soft mf? and the ipa doesnt harm shine provided by, or remove polish? sorry, im slow

No worries we are here to help

1) Yes polish, then IPA wipedown. I wouldn't use a great white or a weterless wash mf, but rather a single soft mf. The reason is that of those three, the single soft mf has the longest nap (microfiber length) and that is where the polish residue will accumulate. If you have a shorter nap (ie the great white or waterless) it is easy to saturate the towel with residue and then you have to flip it over to a clean side. I imagine if you flip over the great white or waterless towel a lot, then you should be fine, but I prefer the easier route with a single soft mf.

2) IPA will only remove polish. It won't affect the shine created by the polish.

Polish should all be removed by the ipa. Polish isn't meant for shine technically, it's a step of abrasives used to remove imperfections. The imperfections in the surface are what prevent shine. The glaze and wax will be what shines and protects. I think I said that right.

Polish, by being a light abrasive, is meant for shine and removing defects. When you think about it, removing defects and shine are ONE AND THE SAME

The glaze and wax will add a little shine, but are there mostly for protection. The way I see it is that 90% of the shine comes from polishing and about 10% comes from wax. This is not scientific proof, just personal experience.

The reason glaze and wax will add shine to a car is because if you look at the microscopic level, even the finest abrasive will still leave scratch marks. Sure you can't see these with the human eye, but they are there. That is due to the nature of being abrasive (or rather scratch-causing).

So when you apply glaze and wax, you are filling in these microscopic scratches and leveling the surface even more. By doing so, and creating (temporarily) a scratch free surface, even at the microscopic level, you are allowing for even refraction of light when it hits the surface of your car... aka shine

so how do you avoid/or remove streaks after an ipa before sealant/glaze/wax?

IPA is rubbing alcohol. If you have ever put rubbing alcohol on your body, you know that it will evaporate fairly quickly. The same thing will happen when you apply IPA to a body panel. As you apply it, you will see streaks, and then within seconds they will evaporate

PM Sent.