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ihaveacamaro

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Posts posted by ihaveacamaro

  1. i rode the short bus so forgive me, but, if you 2 bucket wash, ipa, clay, polish, seal, glaze, why would you ipa again before lsp(wax)? wouldnt that just undo what was done to that point? wouldnt the wax go on over the polish/sealant/glaze?

     

    1) I know there are varying opinions in this thread, but really it is not necessary to IPA wipedown before claying.

     

    2) IPA would not be after sealing and glazing, but rather after polishing to remove the polishing oils that are on the surface and can potentially inhibit the sealant binding to the paint :)

     

    You want sealant to bind to bare, clean paint as much as possible.

     

     

    P.S. In this thread, someone stated they used IPA at a 70% dilution straight out of the bottle. That method certainly works. Even though IPA is not expensive, and diluting it down further may not be convenient, 20% IPA will get the job done. Doing this dilution might just save you an extra trip to the store. It's not like the more IPA %, the better the wipedown will be.

  2. OP, cool to see you're from Tampa! I'm originally from there and go back every other weekend to see my parents :)

     

     

    WW is primarily a cleaner, so yes you would get more shine by following it with DS.

     

    While that is technically true, if I showed you two halves of a hood, one with only waterless wash, and one with waterless wash and quick detailer, you would be extremely hard pressed to tell a difference between the two, if any.

     

    IMO, if you use detail spray after a waterless wash, you are just wasting detail spray.

  3. Possibly. The owner did complain it started to turn white a few days later. My mistake I accidentally got some sealant over top of parts of the vinyl that had SVRT underneath. Had a weird reaction. No biggie.......wiped it down with detail spray, polished with revive again, then SVRT. Haven't heard of any complaints since. That's been 6 months ago.

     

    This one was pretty porous, so maybe it soaked it up instead of riding on top?

     

    Hmm, could be. I don't know too much about vinyl structure unfortunately, so I wouldn't know the difference between porous and non-porous vinyl.

     

    Either way, the vinyl was the hood decal on the new Camaro 1LEs. They come stock with them. The owner just wanted it to look nice, and was getting ready to take it off anyways.

     

    So it's kind of late now, but I just was curious for future reference. Thanks for the help :)

  4. Revive, black pad, speed 3 on the PC, very light to no pressure, limit your passes( heat can destroy the vinyl). Treat with SVRT, voila!

     

    Thanks! My problem is getting the svrt to look uniform on the decal. I can't seem to get it to work without having the marks of being spread around.

  5. Your thrify vs fifty episodes on youtube are a really great idea:thumbsup:

     

    :bow:

     

    Thank you!! I can't tell you how nice it is to hear things like that especially when those videos take SO LONG to make :)

     

    You just made my day (night?)!

     

    :banana:

     

     

    P.S. Thanks for watching!

  6. The clear on Vipers is ridiculously hard. I just did a paint correction on my orange '08 Viper with a PC and it took 10 hours. It's still not perfect, so I'll hit it again in a few months.

     

    I can imagine! It took me more than a few hours just on the roof and hood of this viper.

     

    It says something about the hardness of paint when you can one step it with M105 lol

  7. I made a video of the exhaust on this beast car here:

     

    This is a 2001 Dodge Viper with 589 HP AT THE WHEELS!!!

     

    This detail is going to go on for a few weekends at least, so here's just a teaser. I was only able to remove all the stupid stickers and correct the hood and roof.

     

    I used a Griot's Garage DA to achieve these results. I'm not allowed to say most of the products I used, but I did finish it off with some Brilliant Glaze and Americana Paste Wax :)

     

    Dodge-1-1024x768.jpg

     

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    Sun went down, so no true after sun shots unfortunately :/

     

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    Dodge-8-1024x768.jpg

  8. This was a suggested video to the one Dylan just put up. I thought it was good enough to deserve it's own thread :glasses:

     

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fN-XQY8VAo]2014 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray - Autoweek detailed walkaround - YouTube[/ame]

     

     

    Anyone else notice how dirty the car was for a photoshoot?

  9. I love the C7! Looks so AMAZING! I'm not like people who say I like everything but this part or that part.... everything looks just AWESOME to me!

     

    I know GM says that euro sport car buyers don't really cross-shop the Corvette, but I have a feeling that's about to change now that the Corvette looks as hot as a Ferrari!

  10. While that might be a reality for SOME people, the vast majority of our customers are not going to go that route. Mixing concentrates with varying qualities of water, getting mixed or unintended results and ultimately we have the guarantee to honor.

     

    What gets lost in the translation of our line for a lot of people is we are still very much an enthusiast level product that does a lot of 'hand holding' for those who may not have the prior experience.

     

    Many companies out there simply overwhelm people and turn them off to the idea of car care. Its why we don't offer 15 types of wax and a dozen car wash soaps... while its nice to have options when you're experienced, it can be a lot to absorb when you are just learning.

     

    I can totally understand this and is very sound logic to me. :thumbsup:

     

    While this makes it harder for me personally to justify some Adam's products, I think as a whole, the Adam's customer base is better for it. :patriot:

  11. The other problem with selling a concentrate is what quality of water the end consumer uses, water quality varies greatly and can have adverse effects (could cause water spots if its high in dissolved minerals). While concentrates for soaps and cleaners are great because Chemists can add chemicals to fix those minerals from preventing adverse interactions towards a soaps ability to clean, but the detail spray is not something that is rinsed off and that could cause a build up of minerals on your paint. Might be over thinking this, but thats what I get for having degree in Chemistry :lol:

     

    Not at all over thinking it. With the concentrate products I have, I ALWAYS use deionized water that I buy for less than a dollar a gallon.

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