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Posts posted by ihaveacamaro
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i rode the short bus so forgive me, but, if you 2 bucket wash, ipa, clay, polish, seal, glaze, why would you ipa again before lsp(wax)? wouldnt that just undo what was done to that point? wouldnt the wax go on over the polish/sealant/glaze?
1) I know there are varying opinions in this thread, but really it is not necessary to IPA wipedown before claying.
2) IPA would not be after sealing and glazing, but rather after polishing to remove the polishing oils that are on the surface and can potentially inhibit the sealant binding to the paint
You want sealant to bind to bare, clean paint as much as possible.
P.S. In this thread, someone stated they used IPA at a 70% dilution straight out of the bottle. That method certainly works. Even though IPA is not expensive, and diluting it down further may not be convenient, 20% IPA will get the job done. Doing this dilution might just save you an extra trip to the store. It's not like the more IPA %, the better the wipedown will be.
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OP, cool to see you're from Tampa! I'm originally from there and go back every other weekend to see my parents
WW is primarily a cleaner, so yes you would get more shine by following it with DS.While that is technically true, if I showed you two halves of a hood, one with only waterless wash, and one with waterless wash and quick detailer, you would be extremely hard pressed to tell a difference between the two, if any.
IMO, if you use detail spray after a waterless wash, you are just wasting detail spray.
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Different than these?
http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/general-detailing-discussion-questions/12124.htm
I would imagine the material is the same, but the piece I was working on was the whole hood. Not stripes.
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fort lauderdale
Oh nvm, I have offered people who are new to this and close to me to come over and I can help show them what I know (I'm not an expert, but I'm decent), but Ft. Lauderdale is a bit of a drive
Seems you already ordered your products. Take your time and watch the videos, best suggestions I can give you
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where in florida are you located?
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Ahhhhhhh Dylan did a video trying various methods/products on the vinyl stripes......I believe it was on a Camaro even.
Yeah, but those are stripes. This is a matte black vinyl hood piece.
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Possibly. The owner did complain it started to turn white a few days later. My mistake I accidentally got some sealant over top of parts of the vinyl that had SVRT underneath. Had a weird reaction. No biggie.......wiped it down with detail spray, polished with revive again, then SVRT. Haven't heard of any complaints since. That's been 6 months ago.
This one was pretty porous, so maybe it soaked it up instead of riding on top?
Hmm, could be. I don't know too much about vinyl structure unfortunately, so I wouldn't know the difference between porous and non-porous vinyl.
Either way, the vinyl was the hood decal on the new Camaro 1LEs. They come stock with them. The owner just wanted it to look nice, and was getting ready to take it off anyways.
So it's kind of late now, but I just was curious for future reference. Thanks for the help
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Silly question, but have you tried buffing it down with a microfiber after you apply?
Not silly at all, but yes I did try that. No difference. I'm thinking it could be the vinyl decal itself.
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Revive, black pad, speed 3 on the PC, very light to no pressure, limit your passes( heat can destroy the vinyl). Treat with SVRT, voila!
Thanks! My problem is getting the svrt to look uniform on the decal. I can't seem to get it to work without having the marks of being spread around.
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Your thrify vs fifty episodes on youtube are a really great idea:thumbsup:
Thank you!! I can't tell you how nice it is to hear things like that especially when those videos take SO LONG to make
You just made my day (night?)!
P.S. Thanks for watching!
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really really doubt it. The amount layered on your car is fractions of a micron if I remember correctly.
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Great work!
two pages back, you detailed a vinyl decal hood and made it look uniform. How did you do that?
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The clear on Vipers is ridiculously hard. I just did a paint correction on my orange '08 Viper with a PC and it took 10 hours. It's still not perfect, so I'll hit it again in a few months.
I can imagine! It took me more than a few hours just on the roof and hood of this viper.
It says something about the hardness of paint when you can one step it with M105 lol
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Thanks guys! This car had crazy hard clear coat paint!
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I made a video of the exhaust on this beast car here:
This is a 2001 Dodge Viper with 589 HP AT THE WHEELS!!!
This detail is going to go on for a few weekends at least, so here's just a teaser. I was only able to remove all the stupid stickers and correct the hood and roof.
I used a Griot's Garage DA to achieve these results. I'm not allowed to say most of the products I used, but I did finish it off with some Brilliant Glaze and Americana Paste Wax
Sun went down, so no true after sun shots unfortunately :/
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This was a suggested video to the one Dylan just put up. I thought it was good enough to deserve it's own thread
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fN-XQY8VAo]2014 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray - Autoweek detailed walkaround - YouTube[/ame]
Anyone else notice how dirty the car was for a photoshoot?
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I love the C7! Looks so AMAZING! I'm not like people who say I like everything but this part or that part.... everything looks just AWESOME to me!
I know GM says that euro sport car buyers don't really cross-shop the Corvette, but I have a feeling that's about to change now that the Corvette looks as hot as a Ferrari!
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While that might be a reality for SOME people, the vast majority of our customers are not going to go that route. Mixing concentrates with varying qualities of water, getting mixed or unintended results and ultimately we have the guarantee to honor.
What gets lost in the translation of our line for a lot of people is we are still very much an enthusiast level product that does a lot of 'hand holding' for those who may not have the prior experience.
Many companies out there simply overwhelm people and turn them off to the idea of car care. Its why we don't offer 15 types of wax and a dozen car wash soaps... while its nice to have options when you're experienced, it can be a lot to absorb when you are just learning.
I can totally understand this and is very sound logic to me.
While this makes it harder for me personally to justify some Adam's products, I think as a whole, the Adam's customer base is better for it.
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The other problem with selling a concentrate is what quality of water the end consumer uses, water quality varies greatly and can have adverse effects (could cause water spots if its high in dissolved minerals). While concentrates for soaps and cleaners are great because Chemists can add chemicals to fix those minerals from preventing adverse interactions towards a soaps ability to clean, but the detail spray is not something that is rinsed off and that could cause a build up of minerals on your paint. Might be over thinking this, but thats what I get for having degree in Chemistry
Not at all over thinking it. With the concentrate products I have, I ALWAYS use deionized water that I buy for less than a dollar a gallon.
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Then I have to teach you to read too.
:lolsmack::lolsmack:
LOL!
Math tables and reading, feel like I'm back in elementary school. Now that I think of it... I really miss nap time and all the
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Part of what makes our DS great, is it's Our recipe. By selling it in concentrated form, we couldn't offer the same guarantee on product performance, because it's then in the end user's hands to do math.
Print a math table on the bottle label
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I recognize this guy! I think you'll like the Americana, especially since you get so much more compared to a popular bird-named wax. It's pretty easy to use, but don't let it sit too long
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New detail spray right now
Yes, that is what I'm talking about. A concentrated form of the new detail spray.
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It would be awesome to see a concentrate of the new detail spray that you could mix yourself with water. Any chance on that?
The two word game.
in Lounge
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north star