chrisguga Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 I bought some 5" wool pads and they rock. I can completely correct a panel in 1/3 of the time compared to using the green foam pad. IMO, this would be a great product for Adam's to look into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE Mook Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 The Poor sheep...:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Adam's Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 I bought some 5" wool pads and they rock. I can completely correct a panel in 1/3 of the time compared to using the green foam pad. IMO, this would be a great product for Adam's to look into. Not really... wool is VERY aggressive. The reason you're seeing faster correction is you're removing a LARGE amount of material in a hurry, probably more than is even needed, unnecessarily thinning the amount of clear coat remaining to be worked with. Wool pads are great for HEAVY correction, but we're not in the bodyshop business and the vast majority of our customers won't (shouldn't) ever need something so aggressive. Not to mention the risk for substantial damage to the paint is much higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisguga Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 True, it definitely does remove a lot more material. In my case, it was just the right amount of clear. Some areas required 3 hits with the wool pad to be perfect. Most, only 2. Similar areas were taking 8-10 hits of the SSR and green pad. I don't have that kind of time. I just figured Adam's is willing to sell the Flex which can be dangerous if misused, much like a wool pad. Plus, wool pads on a DA are much more forgiving that on a rotary since the wool absorbs much of the DA's movement and only a portion of the circular movement is transferred to the clear. It definitely wasn't unnecessary amounts of clear removed. I'd check between every set with my halogens. If I didn't see scratches. I stopped. If I still saw some scratches, but they were very fine. I stopped. But, to get it 95% perfect I either had to use the wool or spend all night on just a hood using foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsford Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Ya I'd definitely screw up my paint with Wool.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisguga Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Ya I'd definitely screw up my paint with Wool.... Really? Why? Here are pictures of my paint's finish using a crappy iPhone for a camera after using a 5" wool pad, a more aggressive compound than SSR, and pretty dang firm pressure, often hitting it with 3 sets on many panels, working the polish over each area 3-4 times per set until it flashed. I'm honestly curious why you think you'd hurt your paint? Is it because you've been told that you would? Just be mindful of creases or curves and apply less pressure over them or do like I did and save those areas for foam. You can make the wool cut very gently if you just don't apply pressure. Also, tape off the panel gaps if you're worried about burning edges. Again, wool on a DA is MUCH less powerful than wool on a forced rotation machine. http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/waxing-glazing-sealing/13370.htm I found it very easy to use and the results were outstanding. The good news is that I now corrected all the defects in my used car and now I can use my fine machine polish to maintain this level of correction. :cheers:The Adam's Polishes pads and polishes are excellent unless you really need to do some dirty work. Of course, I'm a fanatic for ALL of their other products and have spent and continue to spend way too much money on them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsford Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Really? Why? Cause I'm by no means a professional! I just use a PC! I sold my Flex because it was too powerful for me..... Wool just sounds bad and complicated and dangerous. Plenty of people on here have gotten their paint to look like that with PC Pads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisguga Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Cause I'm by no means a professional! I just use a PC! I sold my Flex because it was too powerful for me..... Wool just sounds bad and complicated and dangerous. Plenty of people on here have gotten their paint to look like that with PC Pads... I'm not a professional either. I have owned a PC for about 3 weeks. I'm just not the type to accept underwhelming results without educating myself and looking for a solution. Wool is not complicated at all. The only additional tool you need is a wool spur that you can buy for less than $10 shipped to your door to fluff up the wool after each set. Otherwise, it's no different than using foam. I too have gotten my paint perfect with Adam's foam pads prior to trying the wool. The difference is that it took 5 hours to do a door + quarter panel. I can now finish that much work in 1 hour with wool plus finish it off with fine machine polish and the white pad. I'm doing my sister's black Lexus IS250 before too long. After hearing about my new hobby, she said that she wants to pay me to correct hers after 4 year of outdoor life and mistreatment at car washes. I'll mask off two sections and complete one set with green + SSR and then wool + the more aggressive polish, and then show the results. I'll make an uncut video of it to show how easy it is to use. The technique is the same, only the results are faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-V8V Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 You have been doing paint correction for 3 weeks and you are already using wool ? Have you been using a paint gauge ? As already stated in this thread, you are getting the results much faster due to the amount of clear you are removing, wool will do that fast. But if you find one low spot in the clear there is only one way to put clear back on that I know of. I'm glad it is working out for you but it is not for everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisguga Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 You have been doing paint correction for 3 weeks and you are already using wool ? Have you been using a paint gauge ? As already stated in this thread, you are getting the results much faster due to the amount of clear you are removing, wool will do that fast. But if you find one low spot in the clear there is only one way to put clear back on that I know of. I'm glad it is working out for you but it is not for everyone I actually don't have a paint thickness gauge although I'll definitely get one if I actually start doing this for money on the side one day. They're roughly $400 aren't they? I could spend roughly that much on a low pressure high volume paint sprayer and a used 60 gallon compressed air taink and clear the entire car myself in my garage. It actually looks pretty easy if you just follow the steps correctly. Heck, I'm thinking about experimenting on the wife's car on the underside of the hood where there is base coat but no clear. I'm going to spray a patch of several layers of my aerosol clear coat, wet sand it, and polish it out to see just how good I can make it look. If it looks good then I'm going to use it to fix a ding in her rear quarter panel rather than take it to the body shop where I was quoted $800. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green6767 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 I actually don't have a paint thickness gauge although I'll definitely get one if I actually start doing this for money on the side one day. They're roughly $400 aren't they? I could spend roughly that much on a low pressure high volume paint sprayer and a used 60 gallon compressed air taink and clear the entire car myself in my garage. It actually looks pretty easy if you just follow the steps correctly. Heck, I'm thinking about experimenting on the wife's car on the underside of the hood where there is base coat but no clear. I'm going to spray a patch of several layers of my aerosol clear coat, wet sand it, and polish it out to see just how good I can make it look. If it looks good then I'm going to use it to fix a ding in her rear quarter panel rather than take it to the body shop where I was quoted $800. I think if it were that easy you'd hear of a heck of a lot more people doing it. Having painted a handful of cars in my day you're not going to see the results you're looking for if you're expecting to layer clear coats. For one, the layers of an original 2 or 3 stage paint job flash together and bond together. They're designed to do so and they harden accordingly. There' nothing for the layer of clear you're wanting to spray to bond to. Adhere to maybe....if you "scuff" the car, but you'll never get those layers fine enough and not see your "scuffs" through. There's a certain chemistry when it comes to polymer bonding. I've heard of this concept and I've seen some pretty botchy work. My advice is to stick with more non invasive procedures before you start taking a $400 paint gun and used air tank to your finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.