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pc and machine questions


jeffh

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Ok guys just got my black Friday shipment in a p.c. 2 white and 1 gray pads, finishing polish, conditioning brush and a free brilliant glaze. So the noob questions start lol first does anyone use the handle that comes with the p.c. I got 2 of the white pads half of the truck a piece but can I do the whole truck with paint sealant and just one gray pad. Do I need to wash after paint finishing polish before I apply the paint sealant.

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I don't use the handle, i feel it gets in the way. It's not like a rotary buffer where you have a harder time controlling the PC.

As for the pads, if your truck is not that bad you can most likely be able to do the whole truck with one white pad.

I would think one black/grey pad with the sealant would work also. You don't need much sealant to spread around. It go's a long way.

Washing before could go either way. I like to at least rinse but more guys will chime in on that.

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I dont use the handle either, but I have some large hands lol. 

 

As for the white pads, I can do my crew cab 250 with one pad so I would think youll be fine provided it is clean and not trashed. Honestly thou, the orange pads with the paint correcting polish really help keep the white pads cleaner as they do more of the "work" where the white pads do more finishing (as the name implies of the product) Also you might want to do a good wash and clay before the paint finishing to help remove contaminates. I am assuming you were aware of this but just putting it out there for anyone else. 

 

On the sealant you want a clean surface so not a wash per say but clean so you will need to buff down the truck after the paint finishing, AT least that it what I had learned from the vids. 

 

 

there ya go. 

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I dont use the handle either, but I have some large hands lol. 

 

As for the white pads, I can do my crew cab 250 with one pad so I would think youll be fine provided it is clean and not trashed. Honestly thou, the orange pads with the paint correcting polish really help keep the white pads cleaner as they do more of the "work" where the white pads do more finishing (as the name implies of the product) Also you might want to do a good wash and clay before the paint finishing to help remove contaminates. I am assuming you were aware of this but just putting it out there for anyone else. 

 

On the sealant you want a clean surface so not a wash per say but clean so you will need to buff down the truck after the paint finishing, AT least that it what I had learned from the vids. 

 

 

there ya go.

Thank you kind sir lol I'm going to grab paint correction and orange pads over the winter to do a full on correction. I was just thinking I would do the finishing and paint sealant for the winter

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I don't use the handle either, I would guess that few people do. It seems to amplify the vibration like a whip, plus gets in the way and provides less feel as you work.

 

I think having extra pads for 1 vehicle is more of a luxury, in terms of being able to finish the car without needing to do so much pad cleaning. I've only ever worked with 1 pad of each type per car, keeping it clean as I go (non-professional detailer here).

 

I would not wash the car between polish and sealant, as there would be the risk for putting defects into the paint. Just buff away the polish residue with a good clean microfiber towel then go to town with the sealant. 1 pad for that application will definitely suffice - in fact, I bagged my applicator pad and then came back the next day to use it again for a second coat of sealant.

Edited by butters
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Guest washemup

The first thing you'll want to do is a strip wash.

 

2oz of Adams Car shampoo and 3-4 oz of APC to strip away any waxes or sealants on the car.

 

Then you'll want to clay the entire painted surface to remove stuck on contaminates that washing cannot remove.

 

You can also at this point use diluted DWC 1/1 with distilled water to remove iron from the paint.

 

After you rinse and dry the car, do a section first with finishing polish and white pad. Inspect results, if defects are not removed, step up to paint correction polish and orange pad. After defects are removed, switch to white and paint finishing polish.

 

Before you apply paint sealant, it's a good idea to do an IPA (diluted to 10-15%) wipe down to remove any residual polish. Use the softest towels you have and no pressure. Your paint will now be "naked" and have the best possible surface for the LPS to bond to.

 

It's also a good idea to have some type of swirl finder light to check your work. What looks good in the garage may not look good in direct sunlight, this way you'll be sure your getting the desired results.

 

Clean your pad with a brush or cotton towel after every section. Once your results diminish, it's time to change to a fresh pad. Don't get in a hurry, take your time.

Edited by washemup
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^this.  Sealant bonds best to clean paint.  Polishing leaves behind oils that will interfere with the bond, and can possibly cause haziness.

 

Here's a few posts on this topic. 

 

 

Sealants need to bond to bare paint (or another coat of sealant) in order to maximize their durability. Remember, your top layer is at the mercy of the layer below it, so if you put a 6+ month sealant on top of a 4 week wax, that top coat of sealant will only last 4 weeks. Also, adding too many layers or layering too many different products can eventually cloud up the finish which is of course opposite of what we try to achieve by using these products.

 

 

An IPA wipedown is cheap insurance to ensure the residual polishing oils are removed from the surface before sealing them in. 

 

I'd do it, especially if it's a dark colored car. That's where you'll notice sealed-in oils/haziness the most.

 

 

To clarify, you have freshly polished your vehicle, and want to make extra sure you have a clean surface to seal on?

IPA and a Double Soft towel do the job. I typically spritz the panel and use a straight motion with the towel, like I would with Waterless Wash.

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