I'm scared to continue, Have pitting!!!

[sgmccool]

OK so I got he PC and the Kit for it.

 

I started on a very small section of the Fender and I was very impressed. all went well. So I move onto the trunklid. I do about a 12" by 12" section and the swirls are gone, but now all of a sudden I see pits, tons of them

 

I used the Orange pad and SHR Not getting better. I use Orange pad and FMP.

 

I'm thinking at first it's water spots. The unpolished part of the trunk lid has no pits what so ever. So I'm like what the heck!

 

I called Adams today and asked about it and the lady on the phone says the reason I see them now and not on the unpolished side is because the wax on the original side is hiding/filling these in. Now that I polished all this off I can see the imperfections.

 

She tells me to use the Orange pad and do a 50/50 mix of FMP and SHR. I try this for awhile and still have the pits. I also waxed them with Super wax thinking maybe they can be hidden again, no such luck the wax doesn't mask them. I tried some paste wax and luck the either.

 

I'm scared to continue thinking I'll make it worse. There is no way I'll to the hood or the rest of the car if I can't figue this out.

 

The picture shows two spots. They are super hard to photograph but trust me there are tons of them.

 

 

Any thoughts or Ideas?

 

Sam

[sgmccool]

Yep AJ was the king of the hill once again.

 

My pitting problem is clear coat damage. AJ had to wet sand the area in question and then buff it out, it's a 100 times better.

 

So the moral of the story here is be careful of what you wish for. The Adam's products work so well so fast, you will see other things that are going to make you want even further perfection.

 

Now I'm faced with this; Remove all swirls and mask pitting with waxes or wet sand entire upper car and get pits out.

 

I and AJ were in 100% agreement. Get the swirls out! Most people can see swirls few will see the pits.

 

 

Sam

[Junkman2008]

To fix that pitting would take more dedication than I think I have! Nice ride though! Good to meet some more forum members.

[jjwvette]

Your my hero Junkman can't wait to meet you at the NCM this September

[Junkman2008]

Your my hero Junkman can't wait to meet you at the NCM this September

 

I'll not only be there, but I'll be a couple of shades darker!

[jjwvette]

I'll not only be there, but I'll be a couple of shades darker!

:lol:

[Adam]

Yep AJ was the king of the hill once again.

 

My pitting problem is clear coat damage. AJ had to wet sand the area in question and then buff it out, it's a 100 times better.

 

So the moral of the story here is be careful of what you wish for. The Adam's products work so well so fast, you will see other things that are going to make you want even further perfection.

 

Now I'm faced with this; Remove all swirls and mask pitting with waxes or wet sand entire upper car and get pits out.

 

I and AJ were in 100% agreement. Get the swirls out! Most people can see swirls few will see the pits.

 

Sam

 

Hi Sam, and thanks for going out of your way to swing by Carlisle! I hope the trip was enjoyable, and how was the last leg of your trip?

 

Again, thanks, and nice talking with you!

 

-Adam:thumbsup:

[SAPorsche27]

Hi Guys, I just joined the forum. I'm dealing with this very same thing. I recently bought my 06 Porsche Arctic Silver. It spent 20k miles of its life in Tucson AZ. I initially inspected the paint and it looked good. Drove home four hours. Waxed with some cheaper stuff because it needed some protection. Didnt know about Adams then. Researched products, watched Junkman, watched Adam, studied, studied, studied. Went to detail car. Steps - Two bucket wash, Clay w DS, IPA wipe to strip remaining Wax, SHR, DS, FMP, Wipe, and IPA Wipe for Wax Prep -> APW. LOW AND BEHOLD... Heavier pitting in several areas near the front windshield on the hood and a fine pititing on all the hood. The windshield and headlights are a bit rough so I know she has seen some road grit to be expected 1) Did I cause this somehow? (IPA,PC,too much pressure? too dry of pad?) 2) What is the best thing to do short of a respray. (filler/glaze?, more buffing?, more wax?, westsanding?) I'm concerned to put the machine on it anymore (when I did I think it got worse!! Could be in my head but I think it did) and I still have a few scratches to address in the hood. I don't have a paint gauge and am scared to take too much clear. I know Porsche has a soft clear. Sorry for the book but I want to get the details out there. Please advise. THANKS for all your expert input!!!!

Edited July 12, 2010 by SAPorsche27

[Team Adam's]

Theres really no way you caused it, pitting is in 99.9% of cases a preexisting condition that was either masked and/or hidden by other products and fillers.

 

The only way to cause something like pitting is to buff w/ a rotary and generate excessive heat. This causes 'clear pop' where you'll have small voids in the finish. Working with the PC it is literally IMPOSSIBLE to generate that much heat as the head has no forced rotation and its difficult to do even with a rotary polisher.

 

You can try to mask it with wax/glaze, or even look into the Dr. Colorchip or Langka paint repair systems to fill the pitting.

[Junkman2008]

Theres really no way you caused it, pitting is in 99.9% of cases a preexisting condition that was either masked and/or hidden by other products and fillers.

 

The only way to cause something like pitting is to buff w/ a rotary and generate excessive heat. This causes 'clear pop' where you'll have small voids in the finish. Working with the PC it is literally IMPOSSIBLE to generate that much heat as the head has no forced rotation and its difficult to do even with a rotary polisher.

 

You can try to mask it with wax/glaze, or even look into the Dr. Colorchip or Langka paint repair systems to fill the pitting.

 

 

When you talk about removing to much clear coat, I had to chuckle. Removing too much clear coat with the PC is like trying to cut up a dead body with a plastic butter knife. You might succeed... in a couple of years!

 

The damage that you may be seeing is damage that was covered up, you just uncovered it. You definitely didn't create it. There are all types of tricks that "professionals" use to hide damage as that is MUCH easier than fixing it.

[sgmccool]

You are feeling the same way I did when I uncovered these pits. I was so worried I did it with the Adams products. It just turns out that you are cleaning it so well you clean out all the masking products.

 

I wanted so bad to wet sand but didn't know the clear thickness. The gauges are in the 600 or 700 dollar range. Junkman wet sanded an area about 12" by 12" and it did remove all the pits and looked great, however I was scared to do the entire car without the paint gauge.

 

I just lived with it and after a while you stop noticing the pits because they get filled back in with products.

 

I traded the car so I no longer have the issue. I would love to wet sand my new 2010 and get rid of the factory orange peal but again without a paint gauge I'm not going to do it.

 

Good luck

Sam

 

PS always trust the Junkman (Semper Fi)

[Midnight1700]

Hey Sam,I know paint guages are very expensive, but a "Must Have" when sanding. Here is a link for a paint guage that measures thickness on both metal and Aluminum cars. Here's the kicker.......................... It's only $199.00!!! I have one and it works pretty good. Not the fastest, but it is pretty accurate.http://www.paintmeter.com/eng/index_cbm.php?l=&sid=0Hope this helps,MarkPristine Detailing

[Team Adam's]

Not a bad meter for the money. Good suggestion Mark... I'm still holding out and hoping to get myself one that reads all surfaces... with as many new cars have plastic panels, carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, fiberglass, etc. I need a pretty vesatile meter... unfortunately the word VERSATILE = EXPENSIVE in paint gauges.

[Midnight1700]

Not a bad meter for the money. Good suggestion Mark... I'm still holding out and hoping to get myself one that reads all surfaces... with as many new cars have plastic panels, carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, fiberglass, etc. I need a pretty vesatile meter... unfortunately the word VERSATILE = EXPENSIVE in paint gauges.

 

Yeh, expensive is right. One to do what you need can easily run into the thousands. I went ahead and got one of these because it wasn't too expensive and at least it will get my by for the meantime. I too am looking to get a more versatile one in the future. In time I'll be able to get all the toys I want.

[Junkman2008]

Hey Sam,I know paint guages are very expensive, but a "Must Have" when sanding. Here is a link for a paint guage that measures thickness on both metal and Aluminum cars. Here's the kicker.......................... It's only $199.00!!! I have one and it works pretty good. Not the fastest, but it is pretty accurate.http://www.paintmeter.com/eng/index_cbm.php?l=&sid=0Hope this helps,MarkPristine Detailing

 

There's one small problem with that gauge. It gives you one total reading of what is on top of the surface. That means that you have to assume how much clear coat is on the car, which varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Doing so, you could easily end up going through the clear coat by accident.

 

A good paint thickness gauge will measure not only the total amount of materials that are on the car, but also give you a break down of each substance that is on the car. That means it will read primer, base coat and clear coat, giving you the exact measurement of each. That my friend is the way you want to be able to read your paint. For my fiberglass car, this is the meter I am going to use.

 

Note the comparison chart as this meter comes in 2 different models. The advanced model is big time different.

[Midnight1700]

Hey Junkman,

You are right about the guage. This would be a good one to get but I'm sure is out of reach for most DIY weekend warriors. To drop a grand or so would be very difficult to do. But, for home detailer, the $199.00 version would at least give a ball park reading. I took readings of my truck when it was new and I can watch the thickness each time I detail. As you said, it only gives you a total thickness and you REALLY need to be careful. But for a poor working man, it's better than nothing. Especially if you need to do any kind of sanding.

 

Oh, by the way, Love your videos!!!! Sure learn a lot from you.

 

Take care