butters

+1

What's up with the vinegar? I haven't heard of that before. I've been washing with my regular free & clear detergent and happy with the results out of my HE washer (top load).

As usual it's better to apply in the shade, but it can be done in the sun if you work fast. Don't allow drying time - just spread it over the area evenly with your wet applying towel and then take it right off with the drying towel. In fact, if I'm slow and part of the area seems to dry a little, I'll go back over it with the wet towel then immediately buff with the dry towel.

Agree, thank you. I'm wondering if I miss out on anything by not having a base of LPS, but I think it's not critical given how often I can re-apply G&G.

I have not used LPS, I was going purely from reviews and Adam's guidance on the products. I do want to get it, I'm sure I will in due time. What I meant regarding the slickness is that after a couple weeks, with either wax or sealant, the feel of the paint against the back of my hand degrades from the initial results (as does water beading to an extent). It's just the nature of... nature. The protection lingers much longer no doubt, and of course moreso with the sealants. But, knowing that I'd want to retain that feeling and re-apply very often, I thought it made sense to go for the Buttery because it's so forgiving. Likewise with G&G I know it could last 2 months, but after 3-4 weeks the paint doesn't feel quite as fresh (to be expected) so I re-apply. It seems to be the perfect product for my goals - the protection and durability of sealant with the ease-of-use of a liquid carnauba.

Before H2O G&G I went for awhile using Buttery on my daily as well as my non-daily. Now that I think about it, I believe it was my first foray into Adam's products My thinking was that I wanted to re-apply often anyways, so I may as well get what is claimed to be the easiest wax to work with on the market. It looks great and water beads very well, and it truly is very easy. I'd re-apply every other wash or twice a month (seems crazy if you never detailed professionally before, but a top- up wax application can be done very quickly and still be effective). I'm one of many self-described OCD individuals in this community but I lean towards protection vs. all-out show shine, and although the Liquid Paint Sealant is surely the best for longevity of protection, I want that "just-waxed" feeling of slickness all the time and I know I wouldn't be able to go months on a single application. Re-applying LPS seems like it wouldn't make sense, and would be time consuming. So I went for the wax. I switched to H2O G&G for the same reasons and it's even easier to apply, with likely better protection and longevity. I suppose the shine might be incrementally better with wax, but my OCD nature doesn't extend that far even with my black daily driver. I don't expect I'll go back to the Buttery, what I have left should last me for a long time on the non-daily driver.

Thank you for the heads up! I tried this and had success at my local Depot. I immediately assembled and put the washer to use, and I'm loving it. The pressure hose is nicer too, much softer, and the electrical cord storage is nice.

Bumping an old thread because my Karcher 2.300 (1600 psi, 1.25 gpm) just crapped out after a year. I've gone through a couple of Karchers at the same price point over the years, and kept replacing them because Karcher has great support. I bought the last one at Home Depot and got their replacement plan, so now I have a credit and I'm thinking of trying another brand or spending a little extra. I didn't realize that the Ryobi has a 3-year warranty, that's pretty compelling. Plus the unit looks a little more robust. The wand has replaceable tips which seems to be the more commercial design vs. vario-twist plastic from Karcher. The downside is that Karcher has a foam attachment for theirs which was only $20 and works well in my opinion (never had a "foam cannon" so I'm biased in that regard). A question - has anyone used the on-board detergent tank and soap nozzle for foaming? Is it a useless thing to try? The MTM foam attachment is really quite expensive (for an amateur like me looking at $150 for the whole washer), I'll need to look for a Ryobi-specific alternative and see if it's cheaper. Edit: Here is the Ryobi-made alternative like I had for Karcher, but it seems like it's only available coming from the far East, no retailers aside from this amazon post - http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-nozzle-high-pressure-washing-machine/dp/B00CLMMNQY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441230784&sr=8-2&keywords=ryobi+foam $30 isn't bad I suppose. Still, I wonder if it's needed when the unit has an on-board soap tank.

Loving the product so far, a little goes a long way and it's held up great after 3 weeks on my black car. I'm wondering, am I doing a disservice by not having a base of sealant, Adam's liquid or otherwise? I stripped the wax on the car and went right to the G&G as my LSP, thinking that since it should be (and indeed is) so easy to apply, I can easily keep up with maintaining it. What am I missing out on by not having the base sealant?

I love the pad, but I never used it on the bottom foot of the car because of how stuck debris can get. I used an older mitt for that. I picked up the wedge because of how easy it appears to clean and get all the grit out/off. After using it, I can sympathize with those who feel too disconnected. The pad really holds suds better too... maybe not in actuality but I don't like having to apply pressure with the wedge to get suds out, feels risky. So now, I'm the opposite of marquez. I use the pad down to the middle of the doors, and the wedge for the lower sections and front bumper. This way I preserve the cleanliness of the pad, and I like how it feels on the sensitive areas (hood, trunk, roof) - I can really let the weight of the wet pad do the work vs. how light the wedge is. While I do like the wedge for the lowers, I'm also wary of the grip delaminating and hopefully it holds up (no pun intended). I think the answer is that both compliment each other well for a complete solution. If I had to choose 1, I would choose the pad.

You might want to try scaling back on the amount applied. I did 2 cars and seemed to barely put a dent in the 16oz bottle... I could see getting 15-20 applications out of it. My biggest challenge was the nozzle, which seems to spurt out at the start of the squeeze before the product becomes more of a mist. I use it just like in the video with the CTS wagon. Agree on the change in technique, I'm also working through adjustments to my method. After the 2 cars I think that I'll sheet rinse as I normally would, then put my hose trigger back on and use the "mist" setting before doing each section. Alternatively I'll use the pressure washer wand with the washer turned off, but that requires some distance for the mist to break up. This ensures a truly wet application, even if the weather is hot and water is evaporating as I work my way around the car. If I do any blow drying it's at the end, so that the protection is there in case any dirt comes out of the air stream and cracks. Realistically I have cut blow drying out of my technique altogether, save maybe for the wheels, and perhaps mirrors if I am washing then driving the car within a few hours.

I'm new here, just wanted to throw out an idea since this thread has educated me on why I should avoid using a vac as a blower. I have a BMW with the glossy jet-black plastic B-pillars, which seem similar in finish to this Mustang taillight part. While I can keep them in great shape by being careful, I know that my passengers won't care and mostly will use the pillar to shut the door, reversing all my good work. I realized that it's probably one of those spots where Xpel or other clear film protectant will be my best bet. If you buy in bulk it's not expensive, and if you can disassemble the taillight the installation is definitely doable (especially for us detail oriented people). My 2 cents...