James__

My reasoning for wiping it with the microfiber wasn't to reduce shine (I switched from SVRT to get more shine), but to even out the application and eliminate some streaking.  I think it's just about perfect, like I said rich and black with some shine but it doesn't look or feel greasy. 

Right.  To level the product, definitely invest in either of the products shown below.  I personally use the block because it seems to do a better job getting into the details on my shoulder lugs and can also be used for VRT for trim/plastics with better precision.  either of these will help level the product for a uniform finish without absorbing much product or drying it.

ADAM'S PRO TIRE HEX GRIP APPLICATOR

ADAM'S VRT SUPER BLOCK TIRE DRESSING APPLICATOR

Rinseless Wash in with the regular shampoo?  What for?

 

I have 2 bottles of rinseless wash from MBs that I have no plans for.  Might have found a use.

I use it because I have a crew cab long bed 3/4 ton truck that takes some time to get through a full wash so by the end, the soap has settled some and becomes less 'slick'.  The Rinseless Wash adds a lot of lubricity and keeps the Wash Pads gliding across the paint very well.  Also, Car Shampoo does not contain any wax additives but the Rinseless Wash does so even after washing it leaves behind a finish already similar to finishing with detail spray.  

I also use a variety of Rinseless Wash dilutions for pre-soak treatment, waterless wash spray, and clay lube.  Rinseless wash is a very versatile product and I use it for just about everything but actually Rinseless Washing the truck.

Check out the file I have attached for some useful dilutions with Rinseless Wash and I think you will be happy with it's performance.  It can really go a long way and is a very cost effective product.

Dilution Ratios.pdf

I see what you are saying. I have been trying to make myself change pads for the bottom half anyway. This might help me associate time to change pads & add more water/suds.

 

Thanks!

That's exactly what I do.  I start at the top of the cab, then windows and pillars, then top of bed/door panels/fenders/hood.grille and by then it's about to re-suds the bucket and change the Wash Pad.  The method I use usually results in a a concentrated solution for the first portion of the wash but when I add water to create more suds, it doesn't become overly diluted.

Don't use APC, it will strip the protection you have.  Waterless Wash is your best bet.  Being that it is not fresh, let it soak to soften up before removing.  

Welcome, Drew!  Can't wait to see your Bimmer all shined up!

I use about 3 gallons plus add more if needed of if the soap settles or suds go away.  My method is:

1. Put my Grit Guard and Wash Pad in the bucket

2. Add about 2 oz of Car shampoo and 0.5-1 oz of Rinseless Wash on top of the Wash Pad

3. Spray the Wash Pad with high pressure until the suds reach the top of the bucket

4. Wash the truck until I either have no more suds or water level is too low

5. At this time I put a new Wash Pad in the bucket and create more suds (Not adding more soap, just water)

Seems to be pretty effective and I don't have to try to overfill the bucket the first go around and gives me a good stopping place to switch Wash Pads.

Hopefully you're only cleaning the black plastics that way...

Water beading on the paint, plastic, and rubber!

Welcome to the forum! Also, check out Adam's Polishes YouTube channel for some product videos to get a solid idea of what each does as well as helpful tips and tricks.

Looks like either the tires are dry or that the tire shine in those little grooves is staying pooled then seeping out.

A coat of VRT should help hydrate the rubber if they are dehydrated.  Or if the Tire Shine is pooling up in the grooves, buy a small paint brush with fine bristles to help brush the excess out so that when you level it off there is no seeping out later.  I personally use the foam block applicator to level the tire shine because it doesn't really pick up the tire shine from the tire, just redistributes it basically.

Like Chris said, try skipping the wipedown and see what the results are.

^My fridge is in my enclosed porch - its a kegorator fridge so the beer is there with my Americana.  I never apply Americana without a brew.

I hear that.  I barely get the truck wet without a brew. 

Very nice work! That carbon fiber roof looks incredible.

Welcome! Take plenty of pictures to post when correcting on that viper, and can't wait to see you're wrx up close.

Looks great! Very nice work. And that's a nice setup you have for the driveway too.

Very cool collection.

Apparently I need to start saving mine..

Very nice! I think that is the first all black 1LE I've seen; I like the matte hood on the gloss body. My roommate has a red 2013 1LE.

Very nice work! It turned out great.

Welcome Jeremy! That's a pretty sweet VW!

Slick cobra, Will! Any performance modifications?

Nice work! Car looks great!

I absolutely never would have thought that there was that much info on the APC... All I knew was 'it works'.

Pics when you're done!

Looks like Dan beat me to it lol.

Just be very wary about spending too much time in one small area at a time. You do not want to generate a lot of heat. If you have multiple scratches you want to correct using the drill, I recommend you do a pass on one and move to the next, then the next and rotate through them until they are all corrected. This will help avoid burning your clearcoat. When you are working on one area, make sure you keep the drill moving, the last thing you want to do is focus on a stubborn spot and causing more damage than you can correct. As far as too powerful, you shouldn't have anything to worry about as long as you do keep it moving and stop frequently to check your progress.