ragin_cajuns

1 minute ago, RayS said:

 

My old pressure washer had a screen on the connection to the unit itself.  What I don't remember if it was on the inlet our outlet side, but I remember it got plugged up once.  I had to take the hose off, clean out the screen and put it back together and then it was fine.   I wish I could remember the what and where, but it was many years ago.

first thing i checked. thanks,

On ‎7‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 7:23 AM, red94chev said:

Check the nozzle.  Mine gets little pieces of sediment stuck in it from time to time.  I use a safety pin to push it out.

thanks but not that either.  i've used multiple nozzles with the same result and all are brand new.

1 hour ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

Only thing I can think of here is that the nozzle isn’t in correctly. You may have the wrong sized nozzle, or it may just not be snapping in. When I insert my nozzle into the nose, sometimes I have to pull on the female part to make sure the ball bearings lock into place.

thanks but not that.  have used multiple nozzles on 2 different guns. 

tried it again this morning with the same results.  ruled out the snub nose attachment by using the wand that came with the power washer and had the same issue.  i also removed the inlet screen to make sure that wasn't clogged at it was clean.

i bought a craftsman 2800 psi / 2.3 gpm gas pressure washer (briggs and stratton engine) and the foam cannon / snub nose attachment from adams.  when i first got the pressure washer i used it a few times for a couple minutes with no issues.  i was finally able to wash my truck for the first time using the foam cannon today. 

hooked it up and started the pressure washer and installed a 40 degree 2000psi tip to the adams snub nose attachment.  pulled the trigger and the tip shot off the gun in one pressure release then the water dribbled out slow.  put the tip back on and the same thing happened.  stopped the washer and made sure everything was hooked up correctly and it was.  restarted it and everything was fine.  used the 40 degree tip to rinse off my truck then connected the foam cannon and everything was fine.

i washed my truck them installed the 40 degree tip again to rinse it off and the tip shot off in one large pressure release then low pressure.  i could not get it to produce pressure.  i made sure everything was connected properly and none of the fittings were leaking.  checked the inlet screen and nothing there.  still no pressure. 

finished rinsing my truck with the regular hose and tried the pressure washer again with different tips and still no pressure.  it shoots the tip off with the first trigger pull with one big pressure release then it goes to low pressure.  you can hear the engine picking up when i release the trigger and the hose stiffening with pressure but when you pull the trigger there is one pressure release then low pressure.

any ideas what may be happening?

thanks,

Ok I found the right fittings for my snub nose.  I outifitted my air hose and garden hose with quick disconnect fittings to make hooking everything up easy.  The other question now is what is a good hose?  The hose that comes with the pressure washer is garbage.  I bought a new one from Northern Tool but it isn't that good either.  It still wants to coil up easily and it kinks easily.  Any recommendation on a good hose?

I currently have all my bottles stored on a deep shelf in the garage but that's not the best way to store them in my opinion since they are all stacked behind each other.  Always hard to see what you have.

I have a spot on the wall where I could put a long shallow shelf to store the bottles in a long single file line.  Anyone have theirs stored like this?  I'm looking for ideas on how to build the shelf.

Not interested in cabinets or deep shelves - thanks but I'm looking for anyone who has an idea or an actual shallow shelf to hold the bottles.

Thanks,

I bought a craftsman pressue washer from Lowe's yesterday and I ordered Adam's snub nose attachment.  It's the Craftsman 2800 PSI 2.3 GPM gas washer with Briggs and Stratton engine.

Of course Adam's snub nose attachment doesn't fit the hose the washer came with - wrong fitting.  Where can i buy a hose with the correct fitting at both ends, for the washer and the snub nose.  I'd like a complety new hose instead of just some adapter on the hose that came with it.  The hose that came with it is too stiff.  I'd prefer a more pliable hose. 

Any idea where i can find something like this?

On 5/31/2018 at 12:28 PM, Mbrazelton said:

Plastic Razor blade

never heard of such a thing.  where can i find them?

thanks,

Washed my truck this weekend and I had something on the paint that I couldn't get off.  Some thick liquid dripped on my truck and ran down the side about 5 inches.  It's clear and hard now.  I got a little bit off spraying it with All Purpose Cleaner and scratching it with my finger nail but I can't get it all off.  Any ideas?  I tried the clay bar - didn't remove it at all. 

it was previously determined to not be single stage

I have rubber liners in my truck and Weathertech in my Jeep.  I take them out the vehicle, rinse them off, spray with all purpose cleaner, scrub with my tire brush, rinse, let air dry and they look great again.

Here are a few pics.  It was getting dark out so not the best pics and its white so its not as obvious but this jeep hasn't looked this good since it was bought I think.  It was in kinda rough shape when I bought it 1.5 years ago.  Now the paint is smooth like a new paint job.  Pretty good shine and reflection in it too.  I'm satisfied for an almost 15 yr old Jeep that has been out in the elements until I bought it.

anyone try the ceramic boost alone yet?  i would be interested in using it over paint sealant on one vehicle and over americana wax on another vehicle.

welcome from Texas!

Well I corrected and polished my Jeep this weekend and wow.  This Jeep hasn't probably seen any wax or protection in over 10 years so it had a lot of small scratches and the paint felt rough.  I strip washed it, clayed it, corrected it, then polished it.  It feels about as smooth as my 2016 truck which has been maintained.  Its white so it can't look all that great like other colors but man it looks great for a 2003 Jeep.

14 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

We don’t use a set time since it’s variable on a number of factors. The pad you use, pressure, machine speed, humidity, etc. The list goes on.

Typically when the polishes flash over (meaning the open working time of the polish is done), it turns almost greasy. That being said, we’ve done some work while it hasn’t needed to be worked completely. In these cases, we buff off immediately. 

Another thought...did you glaze your vehicle after?  You can apply glaze right over the polish residue and the solvents in the glaze will aid in polish removal. Just food for thought. 

No, after the correcting polish I buffed it off then went over it with finishing polish buffed it off and sealed with paint sealant.  I'm gonna try working it a little longer on my next vehicle in a few weeks.

It wasn't humid.  Maybe I didn't work it long enough.  I'll try working it longer on my next vehicle.

Generally how long do you work a section?  I think I did it for about 2 mins.  It never became oily or Vaseline like. 

Too much makes it hard to remove?  I don't mean it was hard to remove because there was too much of it being smeared around.  I mean it was so hard to rub off.  I had to put some serious pressure on it to get it off with an Adam's towel.  I probably worked it a few minutes maybe.

I thought I used about the same amount of polish as I have seen in the videos.

I finally got a chance to polish my wife's car this weekend.  I washed it with strip wash, clayed it, washed again and dried the car.  I then used Adam's correcting polish, then the finishing polish, then paint sealant.  All went as expected except the first step of the polishing - the correcting polish.  I would polish a section about 2'x2' then wipe it off.  The correcting polish was very hard to wipe off, very hard.  Hardest time I have ever had wiping something off.  The finishing polish and paint sealant came off very easy.

It was overcast, no sun at all, and probably in the high 60s.  In case weather had something to do with it.

I still have my truck and Jeep to do soon and don't look forward to fighting the correcting polish again.

Thoughts?

3 minutes ago, Sac said:

Some Jeeps did come in single stage, but I'm pretty sure an 03 will be base/clear. A good way to check is look for the data tag and then letters "BC" followed by numbers, that will be your paint code. Most of the time they are in the glove box or maybe the door jam, I can't remember on TJ's. 

Thanks, I'll check that out tonight.

According to the forums I frequent for Jeep TJs they say it is base and clear.  Thanks

Just now, TexWalker said:

The microfiber pad is pretty aggressive, even on the porter cable. Stick with foam until you're sure you need something more aggressive. 

I misspoke.  I meant to say foam as the less aggressive.  I watched one of the videos this morning to confirm which one was less aggressive and I still misspoke.

thanks,

1 minute ago, mc2hill said:

As the Jeep is white, is could be single stage paint (vs. base coat/clear coat).  You can test it by applying some polish with a pad/towel that is not white, and check for paint transfer.

For any of the vehicles, use the least aggressive method first - do a 2 ft. x 2 ft. section test area with the FP and white pad.  Is that the correction you are looking for?  If Yes, then proceed with this combo, if No, then do another section pass.  If it still is not what you are looking for, move up to the CP and the orange pad.  Is that the correction you are looking for?  If Yes, then proceed with this combo, if No, then do another section pass.  If you are still needing more correction, consider the HCC + blue pad, or CP + MF pad. 

Best to figure this out on your test spot for each vehicle than to do the whole car and not be pleased....ask me know I know!    

For the 2 new vehicles I intended to use the less aggressive microfiber pads.

Thanks for the info on the single stage paint - I wasn't aware of that possibility.   If the Jeep turns out to have single stage paint what steps do I take to polish it?  And wax?  Do you wax it differently?  I currently use Adam's paint sealant and Americana wax on my new cars.

thanks,

I plan to polish and correct my cars soon - a 2016 GMC Sierra, a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder and a 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.  I was going to use a Porter Cable with paint correcting polish then the finishing polish on all three.  My question is about the Jeep.  It is over 14 years old and I just bought it a year ago.  It's white and in decent shape for an older Jeep that has probably not been given the most attention detailing wise over the years.  The paint isn't perfect but it's not bad considering the age.  It has small scratches here and there.  I did clay it a few days ago and it obviously doesn't feel as smooth as when I clay my 2016 truck or wife 2014 Nissan.  Is my plan to correct and polish it with correcting polish and finish polish a good approach on an older vehicle?