Cammer 427

Adam-
I just wanted to thank you for the line of products you have.
The latest one I'm trying is the H2O G&G.
It did a wonderful job on my M3, so yesterday I put it on my 97 GT and I'm so happy with the look and that's why I'm here to share my story.
My daughter and I used to go to Reno's "Hot August Nights" every year and drool over all the beautiful classic cars. It was there that I was introduced to Adam's Car Detail spray, and now I buy it by the gallons.
I've also added many more of your products to my car cleaning/waxing supplies since those days, and a couple of times when people walk past my place they've asked me what I use and I turn them onto your postcard. So hopefully they're now using your line of products.
I'm attaching a picture of my 97 Mustang w/137K miles and original paint, so others can see with little effort what their car can look like.
Thanks Adam

After claying, I use a rinse then a strip wash to remove the residue.
 
The clay bar is not magic, it does not remove 100% of the contaminates from the surface like some sort of magnet. A good portion of the bonded contaminates will stick to the clay bar, but some and possibly a lot can just get knocked loose by the clay and remain on the surface.
 
If you then removed the residue with a towel, these containments could possibly scratch the paint. If you did wipe the residue with the towel, and some contaminates in the residue got into your towel, you might get scratches and you might not, but if you are going to machine polish anyway, then it might not be a big deal to wipe the residue with a towel.
 
However, I do think that polishing with a machine directly over the residue is a bad idea. Any loose contaminates on the surface can get into the pad and cause a lot of damage. Any stray containments in the residue, that did not stick to the clay bar, would then get into the pad and get worked 100,000+ times over your paint, and you may end up with more clear coat damage than you had to begin with.
 
For me, a quick rinse and wash is cheap insurance, and takes much less time than having to fix damage to the paint after you polish. If you don't want to take the time to wash, then at least wipe the residue away before polishing. Plus, the clay residue will clog your pads and make them less effective.

Remember today is about more than a day off of work, bar-b-q, car shows, or even detailing your car. Brave men and women made the ultimate sacrifice so we can enjoy these freedoms. This smokey burnout salute goes out to all those heroes who gave their lives in protection of our freedom. From the Adam's Polishes team: THANK YOU!

A WINTERTIME WASH
 
After 6 weeks of bitter cold and then very wet weather, the truck was a dirty pig.  I am pretty sure the deicer that they use around here is mixed with glue, as the nasty road spray is hard to get off, even with layers of fresh protection.  I took advantage of a 38 degree, overcast day to get some shiny before it gets cold again.
 

 
I started with a good rinse with the pressure washer and warm water to remove the loose crud.  Then a prewash soak with the foam cannon with 2oz CWS and 4oz RW.  I let this sit while I worked on the wheels and tires so that it would work to soften up the stuck-on dirt.
 

 
While I always use the two-bucket method on the wheels/tires, when it is this dirty I will do all four wheels first, and then go back and scrub the tires and wells.  This keeps the water cleaner for the wheels to prevent scratches.  Since I have LPS and QS on the fronts and backs of the wheels, I only used CWS for cleaning as I don't want to strip the protection off the barrels as they can only be sealed properly when off the truck.
 

 
A handy item I found for scrubbing the brushes clean while washing is this washboard/grit guard combo called the "Dirt Dropper."
 

 
Once I finished with the wheels/tires/wells, I pressure-rinsed the truck with warm water.  Even after a pre-rinse, a sudsy soak, and another rinse, there was still a good amount of nastiness.
 

 
I then foamed it with 3oz CWS and 2oz RW.  Using the wool wash pad, I did each section, rinsing the pad good between sections in a bucket of warm suds.  Since this truck is big, I can't get it all washed before the foam falls off, so I do the top half, then foam again, then do the middle portion, then foam again to do the lower portions and bumpers.  I then switched to the DI water for the final rinse, again using warm water.
 

 

 
Dried by blasting most of the water off with the Sidekick, then moved it into the warm garage and finished drying with the Great White Drying Towel and DS.
 
Dressed the running boards with SVRT, then treated the wheels to two coats of QS, and finished with Tire Shine.
 
Final result was a swirl-free, super-clean, jaw-dropping level of shine that blows my mind every time.
 

 

 

 

At the Show & Shine for our school district.
 

 

 

THE FINAL RESULTS!!!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Probably one of the hottest things at SEMA this year was the F100 BOSS on display - I'm not a Ford guy by any stretch, but this thing was BANANAS!!
 

Had a great time as usual at FORD Carlisle.
The Adams Tent and Display was sharp.
Thanks to Dave (BRZN) for great help with some products
I didn't use. He sold me on the micro-fiber pads
while I was there along with the rest of my Adams payload.
 
All ready for the trip to Ford Carlisle 2014
with the Adams Shine on.

 
 
Sitting in the sea of Mustangs and Shelbys  

Had a great time as usual at FORD Carlisle.
The Adams Tent and Display was sharp.
Thanks to Dave (BRZN) for great help with some products
I didn't use. He sold me on the micro-fiber pads
while I was there along with the rest of my Adams payload.
 
All ready for the trip to Ford Carlisle 2014
with the Adams Shine on.

 
 
Sitting in the sea of Mustangs and Shelbys