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On older vehicles with their original single stage paint I'll usually use Adam's Paint Sealant and recommend customers maintain the shine with his H2O Guard and Gloss after washings with the hose. Traditional waxes don't last as long as sealants, and I'd rather not mess with the original paint using Ceramics. I reserve Ceramics for newer vehicles and those with Clear Coat, however, the Ceramics could be used on older paints. I did a 1980 original paint Camaro a couple months ago and Graphene Ceramic Coated the black hood as there wasn't much paint left and wanted to preserve what was there the

Any protection I've applied to my vehicles exhaust tips seems to burn off rather quickly due to the exhaust temp: Glaze, Wax, Sealants, and Ceramics. The Ceramic coatings do tend to last longest. The key to keeping them looking new is to clean them every time you wash the vehicle. I'll use All Purpose Cleaner, Eco All Purpose Cleaner, or Tire & Rubber Cleaner with a Wheel Woolie, or cheap four finger microfiber mesh mitt. After the vehicle's dry I'll wipe the outside and inside of the tips with Metal Polish #2. If it's a customers vehicle and the tips have been neglected I'll use 0000 Stee

Working on hammered raw aluminum wheels in the past, I'd started with 800 grit and progressively worked my way down to 3,000 grit before polishing.

If it's the self healing type of Clear Bra, heat will remove the scratches: sun, heat gun, hair dryer. As for polishing, I'd recommend Adam's Polish using his White Foam Pad with your machine running at speed 2 or 3. You'll be more cleaning the bra than actually polishing it. Finish with Brilliant Glaze then Wax or apply Sealant overtop.

Where are you located in PA? Go to Adam's web page: https://adamspolishes.com/ Scroll to the bottom of the page, under About you'll see Store locator, click that. Put in your zip code and your search distance. We do six Shows/Events yearly on the Carlisle Fairgrounds where you can see, purchase, and ask questions about products and detailing. The first this year will be Spring Carlisle April 21-25.

One coat done properly/

1.)Wash in the shade. If no shade, wash in the early morning or evening 2.)Don't rinse the soap off the vehicle until you're done washing the entire vehicle 3.)Sheet rinse and dry using Detail Spray as a drying aide or 3a.)after you rinse off the soap, rinse that water off (that contains minerals that leave spotting) with Deionized, Reverse Osmosis, or Distilled water then 4.)blow dry the vehicle with an Air Cannon

Warm Water in my buckets. A thin pair of Glove Liners as insulation under a pair of Nitrile Gloves with a pair of Playtex Hand Saver Dishwashing Gloves over the Nitrile Gloves. As long as the temps are above freezing I wash outside on the driveway. No need for the local Pay & Spray, I've got a Pressure Washer. This may blow your mind's, but if it's below 40 and I decide to wash a vehicle, I'll often use the two bucket wash method with the Truck Brush! To date, no noticeable marring on any vehicle I've done this on. Those of you that know me, know I'd see the marring

As @falcaineer mentioned above, it's most likely dirt/contaminants left on the paint before you began polishing, even left over wax or sealant that was still there. What was your prep prior to polishing? Strip wash? Claying?

H2O Guard & Gloss is a water activated synthetic sealant that'll last for several washes adding protection to the paint. Slick & Slide is a topper. I use it after washes to give the vehicle that freshly waxed appearance. I feel it washes off rather quickly, but leaves a really nice gloss and smooth feel to the paint.

If not applying the Ceramic Coatings from the 50 or 60ml bottles, I find using the Ceramic Spray Coatings to be a much more efficient use of my time when doing customer cars verses waxing, using a sealant, or even using H2O Guard & Gloss. The ceramic sprays are so quick and easy to apply and remove, and have longevity far superior to waxes or sealants. It helps keep the cost down to the customer, and keeps the vehicle protected longer. That being said some vehicles I'll talk customers into using a paste wax. These would be older cars with older or original paint jobs. As @falca

I've got a black one with the old logo on it. The logo's different than the one Adam's wearing in the post above. It appears larger and has an American Flag background behind the text. I'm thinking 2012/13ish? I doubt I'd purchased it, it might have been given to those of us that did beta testing back then. It's a canvas type material, and has a large pocket on each side.

Yup, PPF on a guys Porsche hood. It was a Spring or Fall Carlisle and he was a car flipper. He was unaware the hood had PPF on it and one of my guys went after the hood with a machine. We realized what was going on quickly, but some marring was done. The paint was silver, so it didn't show very well, had it been a darker car we'd have been in trouble!

Apply the VRT to the trim prior to your hand polishing, after use of the clay bar and any washing of the vehicle. Your step 5, just use regular Car Shampoo You really don't need to apply the Brilliant Glaze to the paint after you've used the Paint Sealant and HGG. I feel the benefit achieved in added gloss isn't worth the product removing some of the protection. I would however still use it on the chrome and glass.

Had the same thing happen to my wife's gen 5 Camaro. Every time I'd wash the car, after I noticed how the front plastic grill and real valance looked, I'd scrub them clean with either Tire & Rubber Cleaner or APC using a Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush in the grill and the Tire Scrub Brush on the rear valance. Over time it's been coming off. I applied the Ceramic Paint Coating to the plastics December of 2019. The original Trim Coating didn't need leveled, the updated Coatings do, as others above mentioned. The coatings are tough stuff and not easily removed. After several good scrubbings