avimore

Ok great, I understand now. I wasn't aware that Rinseless is a concentrate, which makes sense on why you only have to use a few ounces mixed with CWS and water. Thanks for the info!

Hi, wondering if I should clean all the exterior glass with Adam's Glass Cleaner after applying H2O G&G? I'm thinking that this is an unnecessary step as doing so will strip the H2O protection, but just wanted to check. Thanks.

Hey Dan, new to detailing and just finished reading your entire thread... WOW! Thanks for all the hard work you put into these write-ups. I have a question about the Rinseless Wash/Car Wash Shampoo mixture you use in the Venus spray bottle... I'm wondering if this mixture would also work by using Waterless Wash instead of Rinseless Wash? Or is there a specific reason why you use Rinseless? Thanks.

Yeah I was thinking the same, but a lowered car makes it tough to get the thicker fender brush handle inside to reach and clean the wheel well. So I'm hoping the thinner wheel woolie handle along with the angled design will make this much easier.

Thanks Tyler and everyone else for the responses. Really good information for something that can be easily overlooked.

Great idea!

^^I was thinking about doing the same thing due to a lowered car. Is the woolie tough enough to clean the liner material in the wheel well that looks like felt? The fender brush will not be able to reach there and I wouldn't want to damage the wheel woolie.

Thanks for the great info! The residual dirt being blown out of the cracks definitely makes sense. Although if it makes sense for the H2O drying method, I'm assuming it should also apply to the Detail Spray drying method? I just finished watching a video on the Adam's website called 'Safe Drying' where Adam dries a Yukon and calls it a 'between details' dry using Detail Spray and a Great White drying towel. After a wash, he sprays DS all over the vehicle and then uses the Master Blaster to remove all the excess water out of the mirrors, cracks etc. After drying with the MB he dries the entire vehicle with the GW drying towel. Guess the Adams team doesn't think residual dirt being blown out is much of an issue? Would be great to get some input from the guys at Adams on this.

Just to clarify, I didn't mean that I wanted to dry the whole car with the Sidekick first, just the excess water that pools in the side mirrors/cracks/wheels etc.

Hi, wondering if it's best to dry the excess water with the Sidekick before applying G&G, or should I first apply G&G and then dry the excess water? Also, do you apply G&G to the door jambs? Thanks.

Thanks guys, great info.

Good to know. Thank you all for the responses.

Hi, I recently saw an Adam's video where they first clayed the paint only, applied a layer of LPS and then clayed/sealed the glass as one of the last steps in the detail. Is there a reason why the glass was clayed/sealed until the end? I was thinking it would be easier to clay the paint and glass at the same time, but maybe I'm missing something. Thanks.

Hi, new to detailing and wanted to know what the best applicator is to apply LPS by hand? I have seen a video where Adam applies LPS with the Red Hex Grip Applicator but I have also seen the Blue Microfiber Applicator being used. Is one easier to use than the other? Pros and Cons? It appears that the Red Hex applicator would be easier to clean/maintain, but I am new to all this so looking for some guidance. Thanks.

^Thanks, that's great to know!

Thanks great info! Just curious on how long you let the glass sealant cure before removing it?

Hey guys, I read above that some of you spray your dirty microfiber towels with Revitalizer before throwing them into the hamper where they will sit for a few weeks. Just interested in knowing how the towels come up after weeks laying in the hamper and how the Revitalizer reacts on them? Do the towels end up being crusty when you take them out of the hamper? Thanks.