Nathan

This is what Adams article says: Just like with towels, separate any extremely dirty or contaminated pads from the group and wash separately to avoid cross contamination. Wash pads and applicators separate from towels. The foam backing and velcro can become snagged and damaged during agitation by a towel in the same load. Use a brush to break up heavy, caked in, polish residues on pads before washing. Microfiber Revitalizer is preferred, but if using regular laundry soap make sure its dye/perfume free. Set washer to a warm setting, not hot. Pads have a glue membrane that is sensitive to high heat so stick to warm wash water settings. Air dry all pads and applicators on a wire rack to maximize airflow and expedite drying. I would read this article here: http://adamspolishes.com/how-to-wash-microfiber-towels

I think you accidentally posted this twice. You first strip wash, then clay bar, then polish, then protection, then glaze, then a wax topper. You clay bat first to remove all the bonded contamination before you polish.

I don't think you need to worry about rewashing unless they have residues left on them. The reason to wash on warm water is because it breaks down wax and detailing chemicals better. I wash on warm with fresh rinse, my detergent is Adams Microfiber Revitalizer

I would not glaze than seal, because the sealant does not bond well to the Brilliant Glaze. I would recommend Paint Sealant, Brilliant Glaze, and top with a wax. An alternate choice instead of sealant would be a ceramic coating.

I think you are talking about the ph level. On Adams normal car wash soap the ph is nuetral, so it will not strip any wax. The strip wash has a different ph level so it will strip the wax. I hope this helps, I am not very knowledgeable on ph levels.

I do not have a swirl killer, but I know that it can also be used for applying Adams paint sealant, with the gray foam pad. http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-liquid-paint-sealant.html

I would do all of that like you mentioned but I would do paint sealant or ceramic coating for the best protection, then to add more shine I would do brilliant glaze, and I would top it with buttery wax, so the brilliant glaze would last as long as the wax.

I would choose the swirl killer because the price is not crazy expensive, and you do not need the best polisher if you are going to be polishing only 1 car every few months. Here is a video:

I have used Adams wash pad for a bit now and they work great. It will definite last more than a few washes. After every wash put it on a grit guard and spray it off, then set it somewhere where it will dry without getting dirt on it.

I agreemwiyh the post above that it won't be a significant buildup. I would use waterless wash in the morning if it isn't very dirty. You could also use detail spray, but that builds up so if you use it do a few days of detail spray, then a day of rinseless or waterless wash. As far as the waterless having a wax additive, I don't think it does, but detail spray does have a wax additive.

Adams metal polish is work great, but I would definitely use them in order. The first metal polish is to clean the tip after you have washed it. The second metal polish is to shine the tip. I use the wheel wollie and all purpose cleaner to clean them. Then, I use the microfiber some desigated microfiber applicator pads to polish them.

I brought all my products in for the winter because freezing will affect the performance of the products. I would highly advise you to bring your products in for the winter. But if you have a heated garage you are probably ok.

When I rinseless wash I use double soft towels to wash with the bucket of towels method, and to dry I also use the double soft. In winter I always use the hottest water because it feels good. I haven't bought the wash mitt yet because I like the double soft method.

You can clean stock engine bays, you will need to cover up an aftermarket air filter and exposed electrical. Once you are done with that, lightly rinse the engine bay off with water, then spray all purpose cleaner everywhere, and scrub with the wheel brush, lightly spray off the all purpose cleaner. If you want you can dry off with the sidekick blaster or a leaf blower. Remove the plastic bags that you put over exposed electrical or an aftermarket air filter. If you want to dress it up use VRT and in and out spray

BRZN what do you recommend?

Same question on Carpet and Upholstery cleaner if anyone knows the answer

Hey everyone, thanks for the help last time and I have run into another problem. I am low on glass cleaner, I don't want to buy more because I'm waiting for my next biggest order which won't be for a while, so can I dilute glass cleaner, and what do you recommend?

Thanks, I think I will dilute all of the stuff I listed 25% water and 75% water until I get my gallon sizes.

Hi everyone I was reading the dilution help topic and I had some questions. I want to dilute wheel cleaner, tire and rubber cleaner, all purpose cleaner, and leather and interior cleaner. How much do I dilute the first 3, I still want good performance, but I don't need crazy performance (I only use them on wheels and tires if that matters). For the leather and interior cleaner I am just cleaning interiors that are usually not very dirty. What do you recommend I dilute all of them?

I just ordered the sidekick because it was a killer deal. I am now wondering if I can use it to dry off the car after rinseless wash or would that ruin the rinseless wash?

Great, thanks

Can I wax and polish over this or will it hurt it?