Special K

Have fun. 

9 hours ago, falcaineer said:

This is how we mark ours. Nothing fancy. Just a sharpie on the backing plate. The line should move. If it stays in one spot, you’ve stalled the pad. VERY simple and worth doing. 

 

Sorry I forgot to post the polisher mark. Thanks for covering it for me. I marked mine in the same manner, based on the excellent instructions by you all. Very helpful

Make sure you renew your budget to include Adam’s product. It is addictive and fun.  

2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Looks great! How about a pic of the marked pad/plate?! 

will do

Here are a couple "ok" photos of the finished product. I missed a few areas due to lighting, but I felt pretty good about my first shot at paint correction using the swirl killer. Thanks for all the help.

Oh Yeah, Here's a couple photos of the finished full correction. I missed a couple spots due to lighting. I worked on the Eurovan over a number of days after work and ran out of light and pulled it in to the garage which I could use some better lighting. Plus my eyes need correcting as well. I appreciate all the assistance.

On ‎1‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 2:54 PM, Rich said:

Here's what I've been doing for years.  (Everyone has heard this before)  Buy a couple of super soft micrfiber or fleece king size flat sheets and sew the ends together. Put THAT over your car before the cover.  Those covers can and do scratch.  The soft sheets make a nice barrier between cover and car, plus it goes right into the washer and dryer when needed.  I use just that in the summer, but then I have a garage so my rides aren't in the elements.  But I recommend using this to keep the minor swirls and scratches away. 

Thanks for the tip. Sure would hate to put a bunch of new scratches and swirls in the recently corrected paint. 

Our new Highlander is ceramic coated and I used the WW after a road trip to our daughters. I only used it on the front where all the bugs hit. It worked well. 

Just used the Marker on the backing plate. What a great tip. It really helps.

Thanks,

Kevin

1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

Shane addressed your questions well, so I'll add a quick tip for pressure. First, make a small perpendicular line on the back of the pad with a Sharpie. Then, as you apply the pad to the surface and turn on the polisher (in that order!!), ensure the pad is spinning slowly. That way you know you're applying enough pressure to make a difference and/or it's not getting stuck.

I think I'm following. So I should be able to look down and the marked polishing pad or backing plate and see the marked line as I'm polishing and whether it's spinning or not?

Another Question-

There are six speed settings on my swirl killer, and for the heavy correcting and correcting polish I used speed 5, and for finishing I used 4, and for the sealant I used 3. I was planning on using 3 for the buttery wax as well.

Once again, I appreciate all the input.

Kevin 

2 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

real

Thanks Shane, 

Your answer is helpful, and thanks for taking the time to respond to each question. What I learned from your answers is that experience is the key. I’m going to do the correcting steps in sequence, and not skip a step (at least this time) to gain experience.

The correcting, polishing, and sealing is making a noticeable difference. At least on the hood

Thanks again,

Kevin

I pulled out my new 15mm Swirl Killer this evening after washing my 2003 Blue Eurovan with strip wash using my foam cannon. I only used the polisher on the front hood and took my time. After claying the hood I started with the heavy correcting polish and blue pad, then I used the correcting polish with the orange pad, then finishing polish and white pad. I ended with sealant and the grey pad. I plan on using buttery wax to make it really shine. So far it looks great, and fun to do. 

My questions are- 

Should I take every step that I did above? Can I go from heavy correcting polish to finishing polish, and skip correcting polish? 

Should I make more passes with different polishes? How many passes should I make?

Should I apply pressure to the polisher with any of the polishes?

Thank for the help,

Kevin

What an awesome ride, and a great piece of history!

7 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

detailing

7 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

= Don't not read this thread before you begin detailing. 

Fortunately it was only on the passenger window last night. Then I read this tonight, and went out to the garage to check for the plastic. Yep, sure enough there it was. Glad I read this before the weekend, or I would have been bummed. I'm sure I will have other bonehead moments, but this forum and the Adams videos should help minimize my mistakes. 

On 5/24/2017 at 7:09 AM, goheels said:

 

 

Glad I read this, although a day late. Don't clay with the plastic wrap on.

Ok, I have a sense of what the responses are going to be, but I have to ask.

We live close to the ocean (coastal fog) and we have a 2003 Blue Eurovan Weekender (non-pop top) that I use to camp and take surfing. It is in great shape and I get compliments and comments all the time. I have a nice outdoor cover I have used in the past when I know it is going to sit for more than a few days. I only covered it after it's washed.

This weekend I am going to do a full detail, correct (has swirls and light scratches in some spots), polish, seal, and finish with buttery wax. This will be my first go with the swirl killer.

My gut says not cover it after all that work has been done as to not introduce new scratches, but then I consider the elements around the ocean and I think maybe I should cover. Either way, now that I'm excited about detailing our vehicles, the Eurovan is going to get a lot more love, so maybe the additional care will negate using the cover. 

By the way, is it just me, or are others constantly observing paint imperfections (not just our cars). I found so many new defects in my wife's beautiful sapphire black Volvo than I ever saw before I started my rookie year in detailing. 

Thanks for the input

Aloha,

Kevin

58 minutes ago, mc2hill said:

The level of grim on the car will let you know what you can get away with.  I would recommend Rinseless Wash, if you do not drive off road.  It is what I use 90% of the time on my cars.  If the car has lots of grime (dirt, or lots of driving on wet roads) then a regular 2 bucket hose wash is best (or Foam Gun/Cannon for added fu

I will give the Rinseless Wash a try once I get through the gallon of Waterless I just purchased. I have a feeling with three cars I will move through it pretty quick.

What are your thoughts on doing some correction, and or buffer polishing after using the Waterless Wash, or the Rinseless Wash?

We recently had our 2017 Toyota Highlander ceramic coated with a 9h coating by a professional. Last weekend I did the first regular wash using a ceramic coating shampoo and  a ceramic boost.

It looks great. I want to maintain the look and keep it clean using the waterless wash in between full washes.

Is the Waterless Wash safe to use on Ceramic Coating and Ceramic Coating Boost? The opinions out there vary on what you can and can't use on ceramic coating. 

Any recommendations on how often a full wash should be done, or could you use waterless wash exclusively?

Can you do a full correction and polish after using Waterless Wash (Non-Ceramic Coated Car)? 

I know this is a bunch of questions, but I live in CA and we go through phases of water restrictions, and I am trying to conserve the water I use.

Aloha,

Kevin

1 hour ago, pirahnah3 said:

Well that is certainly a great way to start an order! BTW when did Adams start selling full brimmed hard hats? BTW By OSHA regs you should have replaced that head band in it as I beleive that style is a few years old lol. 

You can never be too careful when using an orbital polisher. 

3 hours ago, mc2hill said:

 

 

Oh, and some of our member in the Northeastern states may take offense to the quoted statement, but good on ya!

It started raining here today and it's 60 degrees (feels like 58). I joke now, but I may only be using waterless wash if we don't get more rain. 

Thanks for the tips

Kevin

Wow, great looking ride!

Strategically placed buckets to see if detailers are paying attention to the details. 

Yeah, my wife was blown away by all the detail products that came while I was out surfing. She asked me if I was starting a detail business. I told her we would go go broke due to the fact I'd get about one car done a day. 

Thanks for the response to my questions.

Aloha,

Kevin

Received my order on Saturday and tested a bunch of the products out on two of our cars. A new 2017 Highlander with ceramic coating and my wife's sapphire black Volvo 2006 V70R. Used the foam cannon, wash buckets, red wash mitt, wash pad, detail spray, ultra plush towel, sidekick blaster, double sided detail towel, eco cleaner, tire cleaner, tire and wheel brushes, interior vinyl and leather cleaner, cockpit brush, window cleaner, and some other items. Everything I used was quality, and useful. Definitely going to need to get a gallon of Detail Spray and Eco Cleaner. It took me a bit of time to finish the washes, but it was enjoyable and I know I will get quicker as I perfect my process. Next weekend I am going to do a full detail on our 2003 blue Eurovan weekender. If I pass the full detail test with my wife on our Eurovan I get to do a full detail and correction on her Volvo. Can't wait to use the swirl killer, polishes, and pads. Wish me luck.

A couple questions- How often do you wash your towels? (drying, glass, utility, etc)....and do you wash them together. How about your polishing pads?  

I washed my detail towel by hand with revitalizer, and along with the ultra plush towels I let them hang out to dry. 

Are there any products I should worry about staining our driveway? Everything I used today seemed fine.

Aloha,

Kevin

Thanks 

Excited about all the new detail products I just purchased and looking forward to support from the Adam's community. Putting the new polisher and products to work this weekend.