97F1504RAD

It's actually 5 years and then every two years thereafter.

After polish, before wax. Most sealants require a cure time of at least 24 hours prior to applying wax on top of them. And most not all will not bond peoperly if wax has been applied prior to.

Try this one. I myself use this one and like it alot. The only thing i do not like about them is they reduce the water pressure coming out the hose http://www.autogeek.net/deluxe-filter-system.html And i have seen this one http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+washing/car+cleaning+tools/in-line+water+softener+%26+deionizer+with+fittings.do

Here is what i would do on the wash procedure. Wash to get all dirt off then instead drying it all offf to then clay simply start washing again and clay as you wash then rinse and begin any correction process.

She doesn't do the internet thing. But here she is.

Fordtruckworld

I have never seen a Adam's towel that looked like that. And in fact it doesn't even look like any of the other manufactures WW towels either.

Sound slike you need to find some gravel trucks to drive behind

Thanks for listening

Yes it is, thank you for switching it back

I do not like it

Suggestion: Change the layout with our name and all the info back to being on the left side instead of up top how you have it now.

Good Looking F-150

I actually use the clay bar and the Revive polish on the glass when i want it looking it's best and being the water off. You can also use Butter wax on it. There is a claybar made specifically for glass but i have yet to try it and have my doubts about it being any different than normal claybar. If the glass is pitted badly from years of use and rock chips then you really need to replace it to solve the problem. Call your insurance company they may cover it if you can convince them that it is dangerous.

I always thought i smelt a solvent in the UC Spray and this is proof that there must be some type of solvent in it.

Wet Sanding would be the last resort

Nothing impressive Sub 300's I need a few more things to really get it to come alive. What i would still like to do is ditch the FMU go with a larger full pump and injectors then up the boost to about 12 psi and then get a customer tune. However i have some long term plans that will change all that so I am holding off with everything. But what i really want to do costs a whole lot a money

If I had a Adam's sticker I would put it on.

Hard water spots are one of the worst thing to try and get out. There are a few specialty products made for this type of things but since we cannot post links I cannot tell you about them. On water spots you are referring to claybar and normal polish and such simply will not work. And if they are to the point where the products that do work won't then you my require some wet sanding with a buff.

That's the Queen Mary down in So. Cal. Here's one more shot of the engine bay. Not really sure i have anything more

My first pictures are just my MF and pads and such I have a another Steel cabinet devoted to the products themsleves and it locks also.

There is a product that is made specifically for removing bugs and when used with the Detail Spray it works Fantastic. It is called a bug sponge and there are many version of it. When i first got mine I was like no way in hell i am using this on my paint. So i tried it on the wifes commuter car first and they work great. Remove the bugs and no scratches.

Looks Good

How's it going Glenn

It's a bonus that she's HOT!!