pharmassive

The black Volvo looks fantastic, now tape lines or white residue in the gaps.

Sorry, I can't read "black Volvo looks fantastic" without asking for pics. So let's have 'em

Don't change the smell …… please

Make sure you wash off the detail spray residue after claying before you tape too… if you want it to stick that is

I would have grabbed him by the back of the neck and added a caption of "face" into his car

When you use the QS, spray it in a well ventilated area and just use a fine mist -

I also use a surgical mask. Stuff really makes your throat sting. But for he next few months mucus beads real well and is easy to bring up.

I finally received my Flex and other supplies. I will be using it soon hopefully. Just wondering... are there any panels on the car where I should be careful. I'm worried about the bumpers and body kit. They are not made of metal so is the potential to cause damage greater? I posed this question at the end of another thread and only got one response. Not that I don't trust that individual, but wanted more opinions. I would like to hear from those who have used the Flex and what their technique is with these areas. Thanks in advance.

I need friends like you

I always wait 30 minutes after wiping it off, then apply a second coat. Wait 30 minutes after wiping off second coat before glazing or waxing. I haven't used my MSS, but as long as this Quick Sealant lasts the SS must be almost permanent.

Ok... so I'm waiting for the flex to come in. I've already received my FMP and MSS to add to the SHR I already had. Since I started this thread most have said that as long as I pay attention there is no risk with the Flex. My next question is, does this apply to all parts of the car? My main concern is the bumpers which I think are painted plastic. Thanks in advance for any answers.

Thanks for all the responses and advice. I think I will be going for the flex. It turns out my father in law has a connection that sells flex tools for polishing stone and can hook me up... for the best price I have seen. I'll be back for sure with many, many questions when I get started... thanks again.

Angelo, if you want to make the hour and a half drive west to my place, I'll gladly let you test drive both machines on your car before making the decision.

 

I find I use both machines during a detail, the flex for the large open panels, and the PC with the focus pad kit for door and windshield pillars and tighter areas on curvy panels...

 

If I had to live with one, the PC is slower but offers more versatility.

Thanks for the offer, but I have very little free time and would never impose. I may go with the pc with the 4" pads but like the sound of the flex. Is the flex safe on door pillars for example or would I need the pc with 4" pads for that

Ok... I have a dilemma. I want to start machine polishing my cars. I take extra good care of them but over time they have gotten to the point where they need a good machine polishing. I work 50-60 hours a week and love spending time with my girls so with my limited time I would assume that the Flex would give me the fastest results. I am scared about ruining the paint though, especially on my beloved S60R which has a lot of curves on it. Is there any reason not to just start in with the Flex? Give it to me real please. I may not post a lot, but I'm always checking this forum, and these are the opinions that i trust. Thanks in advance brothas and sistas!

Lets go Islanders! (please don't make fun of me)

I don't understand how it runs out so fast. I've done an explorer twice and a

s60 twice, but still have plenty left in the can. I prime the pad and fog the body panel.

Most times an injury is accompanied with inflammation, which can intensify the pain. Try and OTC NSAID, like naproxen (Aleve) or ibuprofen (Motrin, Advil). I like ibuprofen but you have to take it 3 times daily as opposed to twice daily with naproxen. The RX strength is 400-800mg 3 times daily. Make sure you take it after a meal. If you go to Dr, you will most likely be prescribed some kind of NSAID and muscle relaxer. Hope this helps. You are young so this injury will most likely be an acute incident. Most importantly, take it easy. You're body is telling you something that's why it hurts.

97 gti that I still have. You can see it in the background of my pic. I think it's my favorite car. I got it brand new and now have over 185k on it. My wife refuses to ride in it but I drive it exclusively to work and my hockey games.

Up elevator

Wow, nice shine bro. You've got me convinced. I'm going to restock the arsenal with Adams products. It was between this and Zaino, but I went on their site and just got confused. These seem a lot more user friendly, plus there's a lot of support here. Thanks for clarifying the tape question also.

First of all, welcome to Adam's Forums!

 

Painters tape is perfectly fine but I don't bother taping the edges. I tape up the cracks so that polish doesn't get into the cracks. I am not worried about the edges of the car when dealing with a PC. You have to make a conscious effort to be careless in order to remove paint off the edges of the car with the PC. Check out my videos and watch what I do.

I've seen all your vids except the wet sanding. In fact that's how I found Adams Polishes. So after you peel the tape off the paint underneath is untreated? Is it ok like that? By the way thanks for the reference from youtube this morning… rivive polish lol!

I have a question on prepping the car (with tape) before using the PC. Is blue painters tape acceptable? Also, do you have to go back and re-do the cracks by hand since they were covered by tape And didn't get covered in product. Thanks