goheels
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Posts posted by goheels
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I had the same issue as the OP. Applied very thin amount by machine and it was a nightmare to get off. In my case I think I left it on too long (45-60 min) before wiping off, so maybe that was the problem. The old formula I had no problems with removal even if I didn't wipe it off for a bit.
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To be honest, I'm a little surprised by the direction of introducing a couple of these new products lately - This mitt and the sponge-on-a-handle being the most recent examples. "Quick and easy" doesn't justify products that have a high potential for causing increasing damage, IMHO.
I may be in the minority on this, but ideally polishing should be a very infrequent activity particularly with proper washing/drying and maintenance. It almost seems like polishing would be required given the damage that the mitt likely causes over the more traditional clay.
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I paid a little under 300 for the non-revolution version (same machine but not the extra length hose, swivel wheels or wall hanger).
It is by far the best detailing purchase I've made. No drying towel touches my paint. The sidekick literally sits in my storage closet with the MB purchase. If you plan on drying the whole car with air, do not waste your time with the sidekick IMHO.
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Would you say the MB is worth the money? I have considered it, but thought I'd start off with the sidekick blaster.
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I was going to town with the visco clay bar and then realized, umm....
There is a plastic protector on both sides of the clay bar (just removed it on one side). When I was done I had some beautiful swirl marks to show for it
The good news is that the Adams Correcting Polish works as advertised and I was able to remove the damage quite easily.
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Master blaster is by far my favorite tool. Nothing like drying entire car within minutes with no towels touching my ride.
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As Nathan said, I pull the car into the garage and use the blower on the entire car. Then I will wipe up any leftover runs from a mirror or badge.
This was my method before buying the MB. Now, I wouldn't waste my time trying to dry a whole car using the sidekick.
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The OP said that he never used a machine polisher before. You are going to recommend using a cordless drill (forced rotation, incredibly aggressive) in the hands of a novice? Respectfully, I think this is poor advice.Have you considered the Focus pads with a cordless drill? You have to be careful but that will get those isolated scratches out.
There are great "starter" machines out there, mentioned on this thread, that give stellar results and are much safer. Just my 2 cents
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I love my MB. I was a little surprised how close you are using it to the paint, even if it has a rubber tip. In my experience using the 8 hp mode with both switches on and some sealant/wax, the water should just shoot off quite easily from a little distance away.
This observation aside, it is my favorite tool in my detailing arsenal
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Ok, thanks Dan!
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Hi everyone,
I wanted to check that I had the new formula of Paint Sealant, as my bottle arrived today without the "new formula" writing on the label (as pictured on the web site).
It has a strong coconut smell so I'm hopeful that I have the new version, but the old label through me off so I thought I would check.
Thanks!
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While I know the alternative/cheaper foam guns available aren't as good, I will say it is nice to be able to adjust on the fly without having to keep track of tips. (I don't carefully measure soap I put in the canister, so it is good for us lazier people:-))
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You realize that the move to smaller bottles was actually to save us (the weekend warrior) money, right? I can't use a whole 16 oz bottle of correcting polish, I only have 3 cars of my own to maintain as well as a few family members. I still have leftover product (polishes) from when I first started with Adam's 5 years ago. The new stuff is better and takes me less time to use. Had I only bought 8 ounce bottles back then, I would have used all of the product. Throwing product out because it is old/less effective is expensive.
Well, to be fair the price per oz was not adjusted accordingly when they moved to 8 oz bottles. That $30 16 oz bottle is now a $20 8 oz bottle, and that's the point the poster is making when stating Adams is "extracting more money from its loyal customers". You are paying more for less product, regardless of how you justify it.
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Interesting, as lately I wondered if the small swirling I recently observed was from my new wash pad as well (I don't use any drying towels, only MB).
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Kudos to you all who detail as a business! Back-breaking work for relatively little pay vs time. Also I think I would be frustrated knowing that 99 percent will just swirl up your work anyway, but I guess that is just extra business in the long run.
I get tired enough maintaining our family cars, and I'm 30! :-)
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I have an Ivation 2200 psi/1.8 gallons per min electric pressure washer. $150. I've only used it a handful of times so far, but so far I'm very impressed.
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I assume using the coating on painted wheels is ok?
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Look up the Junkman videos. That formed my initial detailing basic knowledge and best practices. This forum is also a good resource.
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Detail spray is #1. That is why i have shopped around for one of equal quality and now buy it in concentrate. It has been extremely cost-effective.
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Master blaster jr? Is that the 4 hp version? (Im assuming you are not talking about the sidekick as it isn't in the same league).
As Junkman says in his video for the 8 hp- switch on one motor "yeah". Switch on the other "hell yeah"
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I kinda wish we had clear answers to questions when it comes to this product. How often to use in comparison to regular shampoo, on average how much time of protection is expected from a single application, does it replace guard gloss as it seems like similar product, etc? I see these questions all the time on the forum but it would be great to get some answers from the Adams team.
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Used to use great whites when had sidekick.
Now that I have MB, the sidekick has been hibernating in my detail cabinet. No drying towels touch my paint.
It's expensive but well worth the time/expense of not having to correct paint more often. (Although I got the original MB, not the revolution which is quite a bit money so I understand the hesitation.)
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Never got to try the red Car Shampoo... my first purchase was shortly after they discontinued the red formula soap, not very throwback, except I have plenty of bottles with the older label design.
The pink stuff was the bomb. Still finishing up the last of my gallon - hoping the new stuff sitting in my cabinet is as good. (I think I'm going to really miss the scent however).
What Products Should I Start With?
in General Detailing Discussion and Questions
Posted
"Yeah I figured the "damage was done" sort of speak from the tunnel washing, which is why I don't know about picking up the 2 bucket wash system before I correct it, but once I order the correction materials and correct it, she'll be hand wash babied. (I'll order the complete 2 bucket wash kit when I order the pads and compounds)"
Certainly your call on that one, but why create more damage by improper washing? The more damage you create by not using a 2-bucket system, the more aggressive you will have to be to correct the paint (i.e., more clearcoat needing to be removed via polish, etc). IMHO, you are better off leaving the car dirty waiting for the 2 bucket/grit guards than improper washing technique.