Odds and Ends

I keep them in stock. Get in touch via PM or e-mail. - Darryl

If you're expecting something smooth and barely noticeable, you'll be disappointed. I've seen lots of cars come through my shop with mediocre attempts by owners filling in light scratches. To get something thin enough to "fit" into most scratches, it won't let any clear (or paint) flow through it. The best technique is to fill it and then smooth it as best as possible either chemically or physically by sanding. Both of which may not be best suited for the average DIY'er as you run the risk of inflicting more damage to surrounding areas. - Darryl

I just read this thread. Everything mentioned should work just fine but now I'm hungry....

I may be wrong, but I was always under the impression that HGG is designed to bond to either an existing wax OR sealant as opposed to LPS, which is designed to bond to the car itself, hence HGG being more of a maintenance product designed to use when you wash. You don't want to use HGG as the only protection. It's also optically clear so in theory, you can't put on too much. I've found that every 3rd or 4th wash is plenty adequate. So, for the OP, the answer is yes, it will be fine. - Darryl

Try 0000 steel wool with Glass Cleaner as lubricant. Be careful around edges not to scratch paint and/or trim. - Darryl

I love Xenit.....I keep it on my retail shelves and recommend it to customers all the time.

Yup, based on the photo, it looks like sap to me too. Use a citrus based chemical such as Goo Gone or other adhesive remover. It may take a while to break down but resist the urge to "rub harder". Let the chemical do the work. - Darryl

LOL.....It's not street legal, almost always stalls in reverse, barely runs when it's cold, and doesn't like to go less than about 35mph! If you think you're a pretty good driver, get behind the wheel of a real race car and it will quickly humble you! Not to mention, this one has a sequential gearbox and a clutch that requires quite a bit of finesse. My buddy/customer/car owner said it's a pain to try and drive around the paddock area. It gets pushed almost everywhere it needs to go. I'll stick to street legal, "regular" cars for my driving! It is very cool though, to have this one and a few others that I care for come through the shop and remind me of just how close of cousins that the Porsche you can actually buy and the race cars are to each other. If you're bored, here's the Wiki on the Posrche Super Cup series: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2006_Porsche_Supercup and a link to the original Morellato Team: http://racecam.de/index.php?lang=en&site=teams&id=558&sid=13

It worked! I rubbed and rubbed and rubbed last night and when I came in this morning, it was life size! It's cloudy and dreary here today so here are a few indoor shots. I'll take some more before it gets loaded into the trailer and on it's way later today.

OK, here's a teaser......

Yes, the Signal Green is a 914. They handle like a roller skate. These days, the hardest part is finding one that isn't a big pile of rust!

Yes, correct....I already use Detail Spray and a Trim and Lugnut brush on my little collection. The Wolf got the intent of my post. As I mentioned in the first post that started this thread, "stay tuned". - Darryl

Awesome....that's exactly what I need. I love the little hex grip tire sponge!! LOL I'll give them a try and post the result here sometime tomorrow. - Darryl

Maybe if I start rubbing this little diecast model, it will grow up to be a real race car.... Stay tuned.....

You would need to sand them first and do quite a bit of prep to get the paint to stick. I refinish wheels and calipers. The prep is the most important step.

That happens to all of those C5 wheels. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but nothing's gonna fix that short of having them refinished. - Darryl

As usual, "well said Dylan".... I will take this opportunity to expand on my first response to this thread and reiterate what Dylan mentions about results. I've found that my approach is somewhere in between the fixed price and the hourly. If people are put off by the price, I simply ask them if they are willing to accept X% results based on me doing less work. If they are, the conversation continues. If they aren't, I suggest that they shop around and make sure they have "realistic expectations". That's one of my favorite catch phrases. Practically anything can be fixed and make it look new....sometimes better than new.....but at what price? - Darryl

I don't give anybody a price until I meet with the owner AND see the vehicle in person. I will give fixed pricing for a specific task but will upcharge if any particular task is going to take more work. Even with your above example, "interior" and "engine bay" need more clarification for me. Wash, clay and wax I could ballpark based on the size of the vehicle, but what exactly are you doing to the interior? Steaming cloth seats takes a little longer but is much easier than scrubbing dirty nasty leather/vinyl. So are you going to charge for your time or your effort? I like to charge based on the results. I would think for an average size car or small SUV, you should be able to knock out your above list in 3-4 hours. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that there are always more questions to ask and the best piece of advice I can give you is to make sure you and the customer are of the same page with regards to expectations and the price being charged. I like to joke and say that if the first question is "how much do you charge for X", then you're probably at the wrong place. If the first question is "Can you fix X", then we can have a conversation about what you want me to do and how much I'm going to charge you for that amount of work. Hope that helps..... - Darryl

Come see me in Sterling.....no waiting for shipping!

Most single stage paint corrects very easily and the results are stunning. Don't freak out that all of your pads will be the color of the car. As noted in prior posts, tape edges if in doubt. I rarely tape on most cars but almost always do on old, single stage cars. If it's not metallic, and hasn't been resprayed, you can bet it's single stage. Go slow, be careful or be sorry.....

As others have said, white vinegar will kill the mold and you must do that first to prevent it from continuing to grow. After you get rid of the mold, I'd give Carpet and Upholstery cleaner a try for the actual cleaning.

I am very close to Dulles Airport. If you are unable to have someone follow you/pick you up, I offer rides to the terminal to catch public transportation or to Silver Line in Reston for the Metro.

Sterling too far?

I'm close to Dulles Airport, so a bit of a drive, but I guarantee you can get here and back faster than waiting for the FedEx truck....LOL If you're ever in the area, stop on by. - Darryl

Try a citrus based product first....think Goo Gone or something similar. It may take longer, but will ultimately be safer. Many of the "good" adhesive removers might cause discoloration of the vinyl. - Darryl